oh Sh!t

Just put my 996 on four axel stands to refurb the wheels and whilst lifting in the center rear of the engine casing as recommended in the rennlist technical forum, the jack pushed a small hole in something and some oil leaked. I know this is serious or terminal for the engine, any idea how big a job this is going to be to put right

Looking at the pics I can see that I missed the correct (l-shape) point to lift, am so pissed off !

Sorry

WTF, lift by the engine case I lift by the cross member that runs between the engine and transmission. Anyways, I believe coolant is in there and I believe you could either remove and replace, or have it welded back shut. I dont think that is part of the block but someone else will know for sure.

I did a lot of looking on the list first and the recommendation was dont use the cross member much better to use the bottom of the engine, but reading through I should have used the L shape piece that is clear on the pics, less clear on the car though. Am hoping very much that its isnt a main part but fearing the worst.

I hope that you did not put the jack lifting saddle there to lift the car. That is absolutely not the correct place (it is close however), and is not the place described in any of the discussions on lifting the car by the engine. The correct place to lift the car is back between the oil sump and where you lifted as shown below. There is an area in the middle of the 2 case halves which is where the saddle goes. You were close, but this is a good example of why it is important to lift only on the case. Here is the correct lift point.

Yeah, I think he gets that now.

guys guys...I think he was clear in describing that he MESSED UP...so let's not kick a brother when he is already down. I think what he is asking is for help determining what he might have damaged or how bad the damage really is...

Yes I get that now. Was following your suggestion Orient Express, only problem is I'm obviously crap at following instructions. When I saw the pic I took afterwards that L shape piece was so obvious, just wasnt while I was setting it up. I looked at the car and read the instructions on the list and looked and read and still got it wrong. Hopefuly the pic with that lovely red arrow makes it clear for anyone else who is going to try this.

Thanks tailwag, exactly where I'm coming from, no fault but my own just trying to see where I go next!

I believe that large casting is considered the oil pump housing, part no. 996.107.012.58. While not a trival job, it most likely can be removed, cleaned, and TIG welded. Bill

This'll solve all your problems, make it good as new:

I agree that JB Weld is like IRON when applied properly. It might make the fix but let it set up for at least a full day (24 Hours). Apply ONLY to a completely clean and dry surface - clean it with a good non-residue brake cleaner and let it dry for a few minutes. Apply an ample amount of JB because looks don't count here and then sit back and watch the paint dry! DON'T EVER LIFT HERE AGAIN, you should not put any pressure on that area again. It is NOT a load bearing area so if it does seal properly it should hold indefinitely. eric

hoges11, I'm sorry that happened to you. I thought things like that only happened to me. I have stripped my engine down to the long block. The part of your engine that you damaged is not part of the block casting (very good news). I removed it from my engine to clean it. If you are adventurous, you can remove it yourself and have it welded. I crawled under my car and saw that there is a water hose coming out of that casting. I believe that the water pump is attached to the same casting. I would not JB weld a part of my cooling system. I would either take it off yourself or have a shop take it off and have it welded. I'm attaching a couple pictures that show the engine out of the car...you can see most of the casting that is damaged on your car. Don't worry...it could have been a lot worse. PS. I don't mean to be offensive by disagreeing with the JB Weld guys, but I would be furious if I took my car to a shop and they tried to "Liquid weld" anything on my car.

what he said.....

We think alike but I didnt want to be the first to say it, people on this board will flame someone for using JB Weld. But in this case, instead of TIG welding since it is not structural, JB Weld applied properly will fix it. Plus it is a lot less work and cussin'

Not taking it offensively but this is a "least effort" attempt at heading off a BIG fix. I would not want a shop to do something like this either. However, we are not a collective shop and IF a shop checked with me first and then did the fix as a "first ditch effort" I would applaud their ability to think on their feet and the attempt to save me some $$$. If it works, everyone wins! If not, he may have to do it your way. Why not try the cheap easy way first?? And remember, the fix will not show from the grand stands!! eric

My slant is really a 912..... can you tell from the grand stands?

Sorry! I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels. It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates. The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable. I've done this many times.

Just kidding!!

Everything you say can be done after an attempt in which the JB fails. Even the V'ing of the crack which is necessary and will CLEAR OUT THE JB! at the same time.

Eric, Your 912 is gorgeous. Chuck Jones has a convertible 930s that he took me for a ride in a couple weeks ago..what an incredible car.

Also, until the part is removed from the motor you won't be able to see what the crack(s) looks like on the inside. (which is likely the bad part)

I knew someone was going to preach against it, funny Nick, when I ported thorough an intake port, I welded it first, then used JB Weld as a sealer for any microscopic holes there may of been. You just used Loctite Cold Weld. Kind of hypocritical, dont you think?

Can the damaged part not just be replaced with a new or used part?

Jasper, it can be purchased new or used and replaced. It can probably be welded very inexpensively. I had to have a new aluminum intake manifold welded due to a casting flaw...it cost $20 to have it done right. I'm sure that entire casting is a very expensive part.

Just trying to save some potential grief here. I've worked on way too many motors with aluminum castings that have been poorly repaired using silicone, epoxy, sealers and JB Weld. I end up having to clean all that oily, and messy stuff up and remove every trace of it before it can be properly fixed. If JB will work permanently in this case, I'll eat my words and will have learned something. Re the porting, I was making the ports smaller to increase velocity. I used the Cold Weld for filler material as I couldn't weld up the inside of a port. I first drilled many small holes very shallow to give a foot for the Cold Weld. I gave it about 3 thin coats drilling holes every time and made templates to check each port against the others at various depths. This was on a GSXR 750 Superbike and it would run with the 1100s and FZR1000s.

Like I said, if it properly cleaned and like you said no traces of oil, it should hold, seen it a number of times on various metals. He is better off buying a different part but for the time being..... I cant justify porting a bike head, I would just buy a bigger bike if the gixxer wasnt enough. Like the '02 R1 I had, what a beast.

LOL but P-L-E-A-S-E let's not start a rumor. My car really is a factory 930S M505 car. I was ONLY joking about it being a 912 (nothing at all against our loyal 912 flock) but it does desirve to be cited correctly - just for the records. eric

Who in the world wants to ride around in an expensive car hoping that JB weld or any other pookie will stay on so I don't 1. burn the motor up or 2. get stuck in the middle of no where? Sorry guys but I have mixed a lot of JBW for interior parts and have glued motorcycle cases back together with loctite but I have never attempted to hold fluids at pressure in a casting with pookie for a permanent fix. This reasoning sounds insane to me....am I missing something here When you go to sell it what will the PPI say? Strange mound of goo on oil or water casting...I picked at it and it gushed. If the PO fixed the car like this I would pass!

Do what your gut tells you! Just give yourself a day to accept what happened, clear your mind and go from there asking for opinions here always helps if there is good imput. However when you procede do it right the first time I hate revisiting realestate. Funny when I screw something up and I start taking the repair journey I start feeling better.

Steven - good points, I was thinking the same things. BTW - did you really type "pookie?" When I read that, I laughed out loud! Glad I wasn't drinking a beverage at that time, otherwise I would have spit the liquid all over the monitor screen. WTF is "pookie?"

I am in the real estate development business. Pookie is a common construction material used in all types of construction...for you less educated type

Pookie is actually the name of one of my cats.

That too Where is Dell when we need him

Pookie (Puki) means vagina in Malaysian or Indonesian language... Err...I know coz' I'm multi-lingual with that particular word.

I guess that would make you a "cunning linguist!"

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I fully agree with Steven. Get this fixed properly so that you don't have to check for leaks every time you park the car.

Guys, thanks for all the input. I'm now comforted thats its not the core part of the block and that I can take out just the oil pump. As I'm due to sell the car I think I need to go down the new part route but will take some more advice from my mechanic. One day on I'm a little calmer about this but yesterday was horrible. Also managed to learn some potentailly useful language for a trip to Asia !

It appears (though appearances can be deceiving) from the small indentation that you perhaps .... beside mislocating the jack .... used a bare jack saddle without any sort of pad. It looks like maybe a raised point on the saddle did this damage. I have replaced my dish-shaped jack saddle with a half inch thick, dense rubber pad, and I always feel much better putting the weight of the car on that flat rubber as opposed to the thin metal rims of the original jack saddle.

looks like, take out the cats and muffler, support the engine, get the engine mounts off, take of the engine carrier, get the belt off and go to town to get to the piece... probably 2 days work with the proper equipment... The only way to fix this, is to do it right, replace the piece, accept what has happened and take it easy on yourself...in the end, you will sleep better!!!

Kim Yes like a fool I used the bare cup on the jack and thats what did the damage, stupid I know and I cant understand why I did that but hindsight is easy. Redridge I agree that I should get the job done properly looks like its �500ish for parts plus up to two days labour so maybe �1,500, expensive afternoon I had on Sunday!

good decision! now she's good as new again...easy, now go and have fun w/her when she's back.

And if you can't find rubber pads (I couldn't), another good thing to use is a hockey puck (that's what I use).

I have no idea where mine came from, as its been years since I installed it. It was actually made to take the place of the dish-shaped metal saddle. The saddle came off with the removal of a split ring, and the metal base of the ribbed rubber pad went down into the same hole, and attached to my jack in the same manner. I have been thankful many times over the years for that forgiving jack pad.

I second a hockey puck as a jack pad. I cut them in half which is just high enough with my jack. Hockey Pucks will eventually crack, but if you cut them in 2 they last twice as long.

Easier to find a rubber pad than a hockey puck in the uk (easier to find rocking horse **** actually) but i get the idea

How in the world do you guy a hockey puck in half? A very small saw zall?

Two words.....Band Saw. And watch your fingers