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YOUR RESEARCHWater pump and t-stat replacement
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Clean i know the rads are free
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I know the rads are free from debris as they were cleaned not to long ago.av
Leading evidence: 'Clean i know the rads are free' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'smartest thing i have ever read' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check before' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I recently replaced my spark plugs, tubes and coils.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
As a reference for others with the low temp stat I used the a/c trick to check my temps after a spirited drive.
Recommend having lost of different size sockets and extensions
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Suggestion
My only recommend having lost of different size sockets and extensions for the bolts around the the water pump and thermostat housing - some sockets are too short some or too long.
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If you are planning to replace any of the coolant hoses to the water pump and thermostat housing, be aware that Porsche changed the design of one of the hoses.
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Suggestion
If you are planning to replace any of the coolant hoses to the water pump and thermostat housing, be aware that Porsche changed the design of one of the hoses.
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I recently replaced my spark plugs, tubes and coils. I was happy how it went and with the help of many here I completed it without any trouble and I am slowly building my confidence to work on my 996.
While doing this work I noticed a very small leak from my water pump. It looks like the bearing is on it's way out and I'm glad I caught it early. My car has been running slightly hotter than normal and I'm assuming this may be the root cause. At the same time I plan on replacing the t-stat.
All parts ordered will be Porsche original parts. I currently have the renntech DIY in hand and that is what I will be following. I haven't seen any good write ups on changing the t-stat. Also, is the "special" tool to replace the t-stat necessary? I've read that some needle nose pliers will work just fine.
Any suggestions, tips or tricks before do this would be appreciated?
Part list is as follows:
Water pump 996 106 011 53
gasket 996 106 340 51
t-stat 996 106 125 52
gasket 996 10632650
drain plug washer
good time to change the serpentine belt as well. coolant tank & cap still good?
P.S. Sorry, no tips on this project..I paid a local indy to do mine (pump, tank, cap, t-stat, belt, flush/fill/bleed) for $575.
I improvised a special tool from a pvc pipe fitting to remove and replace the thermostat after trying the pliers method for a half hour or so. I found it impossible to do so without some sort of tool to depress the tstat all around equally. So, no, you don't have to have the Porsche tool, but it sure makes it easy.
Damn good question.
To the OP:
If your car is running "slightly hotter than normal" you need to address the issue ASAP.
I am not sure what is more worthless, the temp gauage in the dash cluster or the point at which the temp sensor is positioned in the coolant system.
The stat is right next to the waterpump and some places sell the low temp stat already in the new housing so you wouldn't need a tool. I replaced the wp & stat on my car. The biggest pain is burping the system to get the air out(since I didn't have one of the fancy systems to extract the coolant.
I'm putting the low temp thermostat on this weekend. The price with the new housing was less than the price of just the thermostate and the tool. Since I'll be saving at least $100 installing it myself I went with the one in the housing.
The car currently has a lalso water pump that did not last very long, maybe 7,000km. I have read numerous threads debating whether the low temp stat is a good idea and after seeing this last pump fail this soon I decided to stick to porsche original parts.
As for how hot the car is running the highest the gauge has gone is about 3/4 of the way. I believe between the 80 and 150 mark. I will check when I'm home. I know the rads are free from debris as they were cleaned not to long ago.av
I just did this on my 996 and it is not really difficult but a bit of a challenge with the water pump as one of the bolts is hard to get at. you will need a short 1/4 drive 10mm socket a universal and 3" extention. Get a thermostat with the housing. you will need a vacuum purge tool, I got one off ebay for under 80.00 and it works great. I purchased a water pump from a fellow on ebay, he works in a florida dealership and sells parts on the side , all oem and it was under 250.00.
Good call.
My temp is now mainly sitting right in the middle or less with normal driving, and with a wee bit movement to the right if it's been sitting idling for a few minutes.
Check out posts #1 and #15
here
for tool tips. If you have an air compressor, it's also the best time to replace all the old coolant in the system with fresh one as descirbed in the same thread.
My only recommend having lost of different size sockets and extensions for the bolts around the the water pump and thermostat housing - some sockets are too short some or too long.
The manufacturer of the low temp t-stat and the OE Porsche is the same. Obviously the choice is yours but there is absolutely no down side and lots of up sides to the low temp one. +1 on the different length sockets. For that one royal PITA bolt in the lower right corner I had to cut down a socket to just the right length. Make sure you order new gaskets, and use nor sealant, just correct torque. Motor mounts?
If you are planning to replace any of the coolant hoses to the water pump and thermostat housing, be aware that Porsche changed the design of one of the hoses. If you have an earlier car (early '99's I think), you will also need to replace one of the rigid metal cooling lines along with the water pump hose to get the things to mate up properly due to the altered hose configuration.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...oesnt-fit.html
I totally agree with the others invest in some tools as it will make yur life so much easier:
Vacuum fill
Hose clamp tool (God send compared to plyers)
Hose nremoval tool:
Amazon.com: OTC 4521 Hose Removal Tool: Automotive
Amazon.com: OTC 4521 Hose Removal Tool: Automotive
Good call on the hose clamp tool and the hose removal tool. I have the clamp tool and I need to get the removal tool. When I added the 3rd radiator I spent too much time trying to break free old hoses.
Thanks for your input guys. No plans to replace hoses at his point frisbee. While I am waiting parts I'll pick up some of the tools suggested here. Since the original post I have read some of the hartech article and flat6's view on low temp stats. I think I'm leaning towards the low temp stat now. Quite honestly before hand I just thought going original equipment would be best but chatting with some people on this topic it makes sense. I'll let you know what I do and how the replacement goes.
I just replaced the t-stat only. Not bad, 4 bolts, one of them kind of fiddly. 10mm socket, selection of extensions and a universal socket.
I bought a OEM/Universal cooling system filler (27066) from Autozone for around $100 which made the refilling part a snap.
I also have a midrise lift which really makes doing jobs like this a breeze. If you work on your car enough it is not that hard to justify the cost of the lift considering the ease it adds to many jobs. I can now perform a broader scope of repairs which I would not have wanted to do with just jack stands.
probably the smartest thing I have ever read on here. Bought my 4 post lift about 6 years ago and wondered why i didn't do it 20 years ago.. lifts are very cheap now days, usually less then $3k shipped, plus you can store another car underneath!!
If you guys want a MUCH better way of viewing engine temperature (an oldie but a goodie) ...
Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. I typically monitor code 6c, coolant temperature.
Did that today and with a ambient temp. of 65F my car registered 88 C. I use that almost every time I go somewhere just to keep an eye on my coolant temp.
Thanks for all your suggestions along the way. I did end up going with a low temp stat after reading a bit more about the pros and cons. I ended up taking the car to a local indy for a coolant flush and fill and the car is running great. Temps stay right in the middle for most of my drive and just creep to the right edge of the 0 if I''m in traffic.
For anyone who doesn't think they can do this job they are wrong. If you have some basic skills you will be able to complete this job by following the DIY on renntech. Be patient and take your time.
Happy motoring
The "reading" of the gage, the position of the coolant gage needle doesn't mean squat. What was the coolant temp before the change and what was it before? If you don't use the A/C trick -- which I think works for pre-2000 cars -- you should have checked it with an OBD2 code reader/data viewer and checked it in real time.
I agree with you Mac. I should have checked before but I was unaware of the A/C trick. Since the stat was original I wanted to replace it anyway. As a reference for others with the low temp stat I used the a/c trick to check my temps after a spirited drive. The highest reading I got was 101 degrees Celsius.
What I would expect, even with the standard T-stat installed.
My info (and observation of my 02 Boxster) is the radiator fans are switched on to low speed when the coolant temp reaches 100C (212F). They are turned off at 205F. Note if the A/C is on the fans run at low speed all the time unless the coolant temperature climbs to 216F then they are switched to high speed operation.
