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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNeed your advice re: 996 oil leak
Leading reported evidence
Replace during a clutch replacement
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I think the main seal is usually replaced during a clutch replacement.
Leading evidence: 'Replace during a clutch replacement' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Inspect ims is obvious' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Inspecting the IMS is obvious, but now would be a good opportunity to install the LN Engineering IMS update.
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Suggestion
You dont need to pull the bearing to replace the seal.
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Suggestion
In the case of a car that is 11 years old if this was the problem I would think that the seal(s) would have failed/leaked long ago and there may be a history of replaced seals.
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Suggestion · Original poster
What IMS seal could be replaced without pulling the IMS bearing?
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Suggestion
In the case of a car that is 11 years old if this was the problem I would think that the seal(s) would have failed/leaked long ago and there may be a history of replaced seals.
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Suggestion
My dad's 80's Datsun pickup used to leak about a quart every few weeks, but it logged something like 300k miles and was still running when he donated it.
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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The 996 that I am interested in buying has a couple issues--no surprise there--the car is 11 years old. The flaw that concerns me most is a slow oil leak in the RMS region. I am going to get a PPI early next week and would like to get a diagnosis on that leak. Would you take it to Porsche Service or to an independent German car shop to diagnose this leak?
Can the oil filter be pulled on a M96 without draining the oil? I was thinking that a filter inspection might be a good idea.
...j
Ugh... there is tons of info on RMS/IMS leaks on this forum... We all know that a leak in that region typically mean one or two things. RMS leak or IMS leak...
I say, when you buy a 996 just upgrade the damn IMS and call it a day
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Im not sure about the filter part. I never tried pulling of the filter without draining the oil first...
Only clues and no real thing can be told with out pulling the trans. If the oil is clean it is most likely rms, if it is burnt black maybe IMS. and I say MAYBE.
your best bet is to not let it stop you from buying the car. Just plan in having the proper work done to make sure nothing is going to implode on you.
If I had the opp. I would most certainly take to a Porsche dealer before an indy shop. Just my opinion though.
I do believe that you can take the filter and housing off without draining the oil as the oil in the pan has no way of draining out through the filter housing without pressure.
An RMS leak is no big deal, but should be factored in to the negotiation. It will probably cost around $1500 to fix. The question is what else to accomplish while you are 'in there' - with the engine and transmission separated and the trans out of the car. Inspecting the IMS is obvious, but now would be a good opportunity to install the LN Engineering IMS update. This will be around 600 in parts and another few hours of labor. Some Porsche dealers may not be willing to do this as it is not a 'factory' solution. You would also want
to use a shop that has done this before. LN's site has a list.
Another question to answer at this point is the clutch. Some 996 clutches will last 100k, others much less. A clutch kit is around 600, and again you are 'already in there.'
So that could add up to a quick $3000. But if half was paid by the PO, and you have taken care of three major issues at a shop that you know then it is probably money well spent, providing peace of mind right from the start.
A little clarification on the RMS leak. The majority of them can be easily fixed with the updated seal. However, in a few cases the bearing carrier is not properly centered in the engine cases in which case a new seal will not fix the problem. In the case of a car that is 11 years old if this was the problem I would think that the seal(s) would have failed/leaked long ago and there may be a history of replaced seals. Unfortunately there is no way to check for this without dropping the transmission and removing the old seal.
There's also a TSB for 1999 cars and earlier that the rear case and ims bolts were not micro encapsulated, and they tend to leak as well. Could be something as minor as 7 bolts and a couple seals... or it could be ...
Don't forget about the unhappily centered crankshafts who "require" a replacement engine that will always leak.
Not to scare you away or anything. It seems like older cars of any type don't like to keep their oil inside, unless you really keep on top of every leak.
My dad's 80's Datsun pickup used to leak about a quart every few weeks, but it logged something like 300k miles and was still running when he donated it.
Just talked to local Porsche service and they quoted $1000/side to do the cam/valve cover leaks and $3000 for RMS plus IMS bearing. So much for my $1000-1500 to do the RMS idea. Cam the cam covers be done without pulling the motor?
The service writer seemed to imply that even after ~$5,000 for leak mitigation the car will still probably not be "bone dry". Not what I wanted to hear, but better to know now versus later.
From what I understand the cam covers can be done with engine in car but it is a PITA, especially getting the cam lock tools in place. A must is removing the exhaust + rear bumper which isn't that difficult. Easier to just drop the engine.
Seems a bit on the high side, I would ask an indy shop for an estimate.
There are quite a few leaks that can develop from weeping spark tubes to solenoid covers, most of them are minor.
Keep an eye on the oil level.
Spending $5000 or more on oil leaks on a +/- $20000 car seems questionable--especially if the repair is not 100%. Does anyone ownor know of a M96 equipped car that is absolutely dry? I've owned great motorcycles that were not 100% dry... never really bothered me too much. Would it be foolish/crazy to leave a 996 "as is" and simply clean up after its multiple slow leaks?
Mine is dry at 53K - but had IMS and RMS seals done at 30K in 2006 (they didn't replace bearing however).
I would look for an '02 (or later) that has documented RMS seal done (or is dry) - better yet, already has IMS bearing done. There are a lot of cars out there - unless you get a big discount, maybe not worth dealing with current owners leak problems. The 3.4l engines had other issues too.
I think the main seal is usually replaced during a clutch replacement. I believe that the IMS bearing can be replaced at that same time using the LN retrofit kit and their special bearing puller. A dry motor is no assurance of a healthy IMS bearing. What IMS seal could be replaced without pulling the IMS bearing?
