P1341 troubleshooting m9603 engine

Hi folks. I just put my 3 chain m9603 engine back together myself and I'm chasing this one issue. I changed all pads I could access with the heads off (had heads refreshed after getting a blown hg on Bank 1). Replaced tensioner in Bank 1 as well. I did purchase a Durametric so I have been able to Check and test a few different things. Bank 1 deviation: 5.86 degrees Bank 2 deviation: -3.31 degrees Both in spec (Bank 1 is barely though). What I found interesting is that the actual angle of the inlet camshaft of Bank 1 doesn't really react to timing change requests until it's requested to do 10 or greater (it just justs bounces around very slightly around 0 like it does at idle). Also it only seems to respond to slow throttle inputs. Bank 2 seems responsive and happy as could be. I took both engine variable timing solenoids (not the one more in the middle of the head... the other one) on both sides off and cleaned and checked that both do work. I also swapped sides too and I still get the same code and issue). am I at least barking up the right tree for this code? Do i need to check the other solenoid too (the one in the middle). It looks like both solenoids on each Bank are listed as variable timing solenoids... maybe that guy is my culprit. I have a video of the durametric with the car running while pressing the throttle but here are some stills that shows Bank 1 not behaving. These pics are backwards from me taking them. The top one is after holding the throttle pretty steady (where the timing seemed to work) and just revving it up so you see it didn't go up with it immediately. Second is me holding it steady where requested angle is achieved. Third is just revving it up from idle and it's not even close to the requested angle.

Just tried changing the other solenoid on bank 1 with one I bought used (lost the spring during the rebuild so i got this used one just for the spring). Same thing... no change. Seems the timing of Bank 1 mirrors Bank 2 until the car is fully warmed up... note that the requested timing on bank 1 differs during this period though so its still not right.

Nice thread hijack xuledywo.

Hi I have this technical documentation for this error.

Quotes source post: 18958411

I think your actuators are harder to get to requiring extra work to replace. Mine are on the outside of the cam cover and currently easy to get to since I didn't put the mufflers out bumper on yet.

Xuledywo, you should start a different thread. Jehu, the Variocam Plus design has 2 solenoids to control 2 functions (on each bank). One to choose standard or advanced phase, and one to choose how much advance is needed. You could rule out the solenoids (expensive) by swapping both solenoids side to side (all four moved) to see if the error code changes to the other bank. If so, replace both solenoids. By the way, just because they click when tested outside the car, does not mean they work inside the car. If the solenoids are OK, then the fault conditions are 1. Block or partially blocked passages of oil in the head. 2. Variocam adjustor module on intake cam is not working. 3. Your cam position sensor may also be bad. What caused your engine assembly?

Quotes source post: 18958586

Let me rephrase this. The 2000 model year "actuators" are easier to get to (on Variocam 1) which can come out with engine in the car. Tough but doable. The 2003 model year "actuators" need engine removed before it can be changed. Solenoids on both models can be accessed with engine in the car.

Quotes source post: 18958616

I said actuators but meant solenoids... but didn't realize the earlier were easy to replace too. I rebuilt due to a bad head gasket on bank 1 where I was getting compression into the cooling system on cylinder 2 (and some coolant getting back into the cylinder causing smoke on startup). I had the heads tested by 2 different shops to rule out a cracked head with the second shop reconditioning then both. I wonder if something got in the actuator or related oil passage when the engine was apart. Is there a way to clean without pulling the engine? Would something blocking the actuator make it behave the way I described? IE, it doesn't like small or quick throttle inputs but will move with steady throttle where the ecu requests 10+ percent (or is the durametric showing percent?) or higher... I also noticed timing seems to move the same way as the other bank when cold (maybe due to higher oil pressure?). It's not as much as the ecu is requesting but it moves with bank2 almost exactly. Thoughts?

Quick update: after testing for a while, it appears slow to respond when warmed up. I think it's all about the oil pressure as it acts normal when the oil is not fully up to temp and slower after (only really moves the timing after oil pressure is built). So a blockage makes the most sense. FYI, I have swapped both sensors and checked the passages I could see etc. Thoughts?

Thoughts: no guaranty to be worth anything. The solenoid that is closer to the edge, away from the middle of the head, has a small valve / screen thing (1/2 inch x 3/4 inch long) that sits underneath the solenoid. It is very easy to forget it, ignore it, or lose it during the head removal / cleaning process. Did you get that back and install it in the right orientation? You swapped all solenoids and the error code remains the same? Your last statement "normal when the oil is NOT fully up to temp" indicates it is an oil pressure related issue.

Quotes source post: 18960417

I never disassembled those solenoids to even see the screens. I did swap them to no affect...

You must have removed the solenoid before you took the head to the machine shop. They tend to stay behind when the solenoid comes out, and then the little piece of **** falls out when the head is inverted, That is why it is easy to forget.

So it's on the outside? Yeah I don't have either then...

Here is a photo of the screen and where it installs in the engine

yes, that is the little piece of ****e I was talking about. As for why one side is not getting enough oil pressure, I am not sure what to tell you. Perhaps someone better than me can tell you how to unblock the passages. Looks like the engine comes back out ...

I'll order the screens. I have an appointment at a local indy speed shop to take a look. I'm going to change my oil today and explore the filter. My oil pressure reached 5 bars cold on initial start but only seeing a hair over 4 recently. I wonder what I'll find after having it apart for so long in my garage. Last oil change before was super clean so not much from before the rebuild should be present. Fingers crossed though I'm not expecting much as it's running decently and quietly.

$80 ea for a screen? And looking at these, it looks like each end is closed. How does this thing fit with the solenoid that's got the big shaft coming out of it? I don't recall these on disassembly nor in my posts boxes... weird that both would be lost. With the extra material, it might put more pressure on the actuator to force it open harder... so maybe that's all I'm missing.

The side with the oring goes up against the solenoid. The oring seals the solenoid against the bore and keeps oil pressure up. The screen captures any crud in the oil and keeps it out of the solenoid.

Your car is a 3.6? They use the three rings on the intake camshaft to provide oil to the variocam sprocket. I had problems on my car (996 turbo, uses the same rings and variocam sprocket) where the middle ring disintegrated. The cam timing would wander all over the place, more so when the engine was hot.

Quotes source post: 18962212

That would be another possibility.

My timing doesn't seem to wonder... more of just slow to react on bank 1. If the strainer sleeve helps keep oil pressure up... that seems to be my issue. At least let's hope as I'll be getting those tomorrow!

Quotes source post: 18963174

Before you stuff a new one into the hole, look inside to see if there is a screen or not. Maybe even try to fish one out with a pick. If none comes out, well, put one in. I find a mirror and a flashlight helps.

Quotes source post: 18962182

Because they tend to stay behind with the head only to fall out later on when you are not looking.

I explored in both holes tonight. Saw nothing and a pic only hit metal all the way around..

Quotes source post: 18963426

Well ... good luck tomorrow.

I really like to know how this turns out.

I still have the code. The filter/sleeve didn't fix it. The next step the shop wanted to do was check/ set timing at a 3k price tag. My deviations are in spec so I'm not sure why they think it would cause this to happen.. This is Work I can do myself. I can drive it the way it is just fine. I'll let it cool down here in Atlanta some and probably take care of this in October. I might need to drop the engine (probably at least some, if not all the way out) but the shop said they could do it in the car. It still hasn't actually turned on the light. The code is just sitting there in the background. I think whatever the issue is, it's probably going to be a pain to fix... like engine out. Does anyone know for certain I'll fail emissions like this? My birthday is at the end of October... so if this is the case, that's my deadline. I'm curious to hear everyone's opinions (if cam timing being off slightly. but within spec, would cause this behavior, lazy timing when engine is fully warmed up, and p1341 code.)

That's too bad Jehu. There are no more easy fixes at this point. I don't think Variocam Plus can be done with engine in the car, not by me anyway. At this point, I think removing the Variocam module at the intake cam, inspecting or replacing it is probably the way to go. That's a $500 part, cheap for a Porsche.

Quick update. I was able to pass emissions even with the P1341 code in the background. I checked the Durametric and all monitors showed passed. I checked for codes and actually had 4 lol! Good old 1341 plus misfire codes (1 & 2 along with the multiple misfire code) but still no check engine light.i checked for current misfires at idle and didn't see any and the timing seemed to act normal (at least Bank 1 mirrored Bank 2 and neither seemed to be lazy at that time.) So I went and got my GA emissions!