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YOUR RESEARCHTitanium lug bolts
Leading reported evidence
Check with manufacturer and they confirmed
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I even checked with manufacturer and they confirmed.
Leading evidence: 'Check with manufacturer and they confirmed' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'lot' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check torque of the bolts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For the OEM lugs, aluminum anti-seize is recommended on the threads (apparently from prior posts here, NO anti-seize is used titanium lug bolts).
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
Those early bolts weigh 5 grams each (I'm exaggerating, probably a lot, but they feel like 5 grams in your hand).
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Suspected cause
The better idea is to just wire brush and paint the lug bolts - just know that rust will be an ongoing problem (probably a yearly �maintenance� job...
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Check the torque of the bolts after driving for at least the first few times you drive it...
Recommend optimoly ht (copper-based anti-seize) in 1985
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Porsche used to recommend Optimoly HT (copper-based anti-seize) in 1985, which was superseded by Optimolly TA (aluminum anti-seize) in 1988 according to a TSB.
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Suggestion
It is truly great stuff when used carefully and sparingly (that I use on almost everything I ever plan on taking apart again) but if your mind wanders a bit, it has a way of finding places where was never intended to be!
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Suggestion
While that�s about 50X more expensive than using a compound, or painting them, it�s a one-time fix, and it�s really not that expensive compared to buying new bolts or other Porsche repairs.
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Suggestion
It is truly great stuff when used carefully and sparingly (that I use on almost everything I ever plan on taking apart again) but if your mind wanders a bit, it has a way of finding places where was never intended to be!
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22 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261026T124918Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Having just bought a set of these to enhance my 1999 C4 I read that the titanium reacts with the steel hub and makes removal a Herculean task. Which I do not want when stuck on the side of the road. Will copious quantities of Coppaslip be the solution?
Copious amounts of anything is a bad idea
A little anti- seize on the threads is fine. Don�t put it on the seats! Check the torque of the bolts after driving for at least the first few times you drive it...
No experience with titanium lug bolts, but I think the factory spec for the original lug bolts is aluminum anti-seize rather than copper. Not sure which would be better for titanium though.
The weight difference for titanium wasn't enough for me to look into them. Now, if Porsche made the super-light lug bolts they used on earlier 911's for the 996, and they were safe, I'd be all over those. Those early bolts weigh 5 grams each (I'm exaggerating, probably a lot, but they feel like 5 grams in your hand). My 1988 3.2 Carrera had the super-light lug bolts, not sure when they stopped. I've heard some early 996's had them.
I just went through this. No need for anything, just use the titanium bolts and torque to 96 ft-lbs and be done with it. That�s what I did a few months ago. They hold fine, and come out fine. No need for anti-seize lube, and in fact, the manufacturer of my TI bolts said the same thing to confirm it. I don�t think the two metals together will be any problem at all.
Aluminum rusts (corrodes) nearly instantly, naturally, so raw and untreated aluminum is almost never a problem.
For those upgrading to titanium lug bolts because of corrosion of OEM bolts, instead of weight, there is a trick that can be used to avoid corrosion and to make existing nuts look better. For the OEM lugs, aluminum anti-seize is recommended on the threads (apparently from prior posts here, NO anti-seize is used titanium lug bolts). That aluminum anti-seize looks like aluminum and sticks to the surface of metal really well, so you can take the excess anti-seize from the threads and very lightly coat the hex heads of the bolts. The anti-seize will cover dirt and light corrosion to look like clean aluminum, and will help protect the bolt head from corrosion in the future. Don't expect miracles, but well worth the one minute it takes to do when you have the wheels off.
While it might cover and protect from corrosion, it�ll also get all over everything the minute you touch it... IMO, not a good idea at all (if you�ve ever used anti seize you�ll know what I mean). The better idea is to just wire brush and paint the lug bolts - just know that rust will be an ongoing problem (probably a yearly �maintenance� job...
????????? I
HAVE
used anti-seize (for several decades) or I wouldn't have made the post. I use it on the threads every time I remove/reinstall the lug bolts as recommended by the factory. You are correct that it does stick to everything, which is why it does a decent job of covering the discoloration and protecting corrosion and sticking to the head of the bolt. If you put it on thick and leave it there, then I agree it will be a mess, so I know why you are making the comment. If you put on a very thin layer, rub it into the surface, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel, it stays embedded in the surface imperfections. It doesn't make a mess on your hands, and in practice you typically don't touch the heads almost at all because they are recessed in the wheels -- you put them in a socket and use the socket to install and remove them.
Nothing wrong with painting them of course. But it takes literally a minute to apply a tiny bit of anti-seize to the heads and wipe it off with a paper towel before installing them.
It should be noted that If the bolts are brand new and perfectly smooth, then anti-seize probably won't stick very well, if at all. If I had brand new bolts, I'd wax the heads the first time I used them, which would provide some protection against corrosion while retaining the original appearance.
Not really. Porsche used to recommend Optimoly HT (copper-based anti-seize) in 1985, which was superseded by Optimolly TA (aluminum anti-seize) in 1988 according to a TSB. Optimolly TA is difficult to locate, Permatex aluminum anti-seize is generally considered a viable alternative. If you have a better one, please suggest it. Here is a relevant thread =>
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ou-know-2.html
The instructions below are from that thread (thanks
@sasilverbullet
)
I have the Optimol stuff and it is very little like any other anti-seize. It isn�t remotely slippery, very think (almost putty like) and doesn�t spread like Covid (like normal anti-seize.
Do you have the "Optimol TA" (
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...BoC--8QAvD_BwE
) or the "Molub Alloy TA" (
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...C4LMQAvD_BwE)?
Can't tell if those are different products or just new and old names. The Pelican description indicates Castrol's "Molub Alloy TA" is manufactured to Porsche's "Optimoly TA" specifications.
For what it�s worth, I paid $260 for my Acer Racing TI bolts (new, EBay). While that�s about 50X more expensive than using a compound, or painting them, it�s a one-time fix, and it�s really not that expensive compared to buying new bolts or other Porsche repairs.
Even though my response was written to your post, it was really aimed at those who haven�t initiated to the wonders of anti-seize
It is truly great stuff when used carefully and sparingly (that I use on almost everything I ever plan on taking apart again) but if your mind wanders a bit, it has a way of finding places where was never intended to be!
