23 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCrankshaft bolt removal
Leading reported evidence
Replace from
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The Pelican write up shows the pulley in place when the case was split so I think the casting changed from that Boxter engine and the locking pin hole has a longes shoulder.
Leading evidence: 'Replace from' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'lot more difficult' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace from' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Use blue loctite so the c/s bolt required significant force
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I was able to use a diy counter stay at the flywheel end.The previous mechanic had used blue Loctite so the c/s bolt required significant force to loosen it.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have used a large strap wrench to keep the crank pulley from moving when trying to crack the crank bolt - since I ground the boss down for the underdrive pulley, I didn't want to rely solely on the remains of the ground-down boss to keep things from moving.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've seen way too many blocks broken when the locking pin is used only when removing the pulley.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause
I'm sure steel would be even stronger but probably a lot more difficult to fab.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Replace from
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The Pelican write up shows the pulley in place when the case was split so I think the casting changed from that Boxter engine and the locking pin hole has a longes shoulder.
Use blue loctite so the c/s bolt required significant force
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I was able to use a diy counter stay at the flywheel end.The previous mechanic had used blue Loctite so the c/s bolt required significant force to loosen it.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
The crank pulley is one of the first items I remove, and I do it with the flywheel still in place, so I can use my flywheel lock to better hold the crankshaft.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have used a large strap wrench to keep the crank pulley from moving when trying to crack the crank bolt - since I ground the boss down for the underdrive pulley, I didn't want to rely solely on the remains of the ground-down boss to keep things from moving.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T213932Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
What other way is there to unloosen a bolt? Seems like a dorky question. Not surprising nothing came up after a search on that question. You have made over 16000 posting and don't know how to unloosen a bolt????? lol. I get scared of asking a question on here after reading this post. I hope you never answer any of my questions. I think the answer you are looking for is. aquire a wrench that fits the top of the bolt in question. Too unloosen it, turn the wrench anti clock wise. Forgive me for that answer. The devil himself made me say that. lol.
A real comendian I see. If you ever attempted to loosed the crank bolt you would understand exactly what I mean. I need this to split the block. The TDC hole casting is interfering with the pulley and with the TDC locking pin installed, the bolt wasn't moving. I'm afraid of cracking the block if I put too much force on the locking pin casting. So, I'm asking anyone with first hand experience if there is another/proper way of loosenning the crank bolt. Next option would be an airgun but if there is a better/ more apropriate way, I would really like to know.
No first hand experience but I saw a thread a guy fab up a crankshaft pulley holder with 3 pins fitting the 3 holes on the pulley, 120 degree apart. The holder has a big hole in the middle to let a socket be put on the pulley bolt.
Just curious why you still need the TDC locking tool in place now that the heads are off?
It was my attempt to lock the crank to loosen the bolt. I was thinking of fabricating something like what you wrote too. I was just hoping someone else figured out a way that doesn't need custom tools. The Pelican write up shows the pulley in place when the case was split so I think the casting changed from that Boxter engine and the locking pin hole has a longes shoulder.
Use the locking pin in the pulley and it will undo fine, you can also torque it up using it this way. I usually use a flywheel locking tool if my gearbox is off but if not, putting it in gear (manual) would also help.
Interesting that nobody reports any damage using the TDC timing hole+pin to torque up/undo the c/s bolt. You would think that steel pin+cast aluminum socket +lots of torque might crack the casting ? I doubt that is what it was designed for ?
I was able to use a diy counter stay at the flywheel end.The previous mechanic had used blue Loctite so the c/s bolt required significant force to loosen it.
Awesome, thanks. With the locking pin in (a SBC pushrod) and a breaker bar on the bolt, I put enough force on it that it reached my confort level to stop. I will go with a two or a three point pulley tool like in in the link.
I've seen way too many blocks broken when the locking pin is used only when removing the pulley.
The crank pulley is one of the first items I remove, and I do it with the flywheel still in place, so I can use my flywheel lock to better hold the crankshaft.
I have seen a home made flywheel lock from a piece of thick aluminum. I think Imre's flywheel is already off. Maybe something like this will help holding the crank, in addition to using the pulley holder.
http://986forum.com/forums/299879-post9.html
When you mention thick, it should be pretty thick but steel is preferred. My 1/4" fab tool couldn't hold the two bolts and started to strip.
Interesting about the TDC pin method. I used that to remove my stock pulley without issue but didn't know it could cause any issues. Isn't this how the factory does it?
The factory doesn't disassemble engines. It takes a lot more breakaway torque to loosen the bolt than it does to install it.
If the boss breaks, it typically takes a chunk of the block with it. The boss is for cam timing, TDC lock only. Lots of people have gotten by with using it for disassembly, but its like Russian Roulette.
LOL, very true. I can also see the boss breaking since it's only cast.
I guess I got lucky or rather I didn't get unlucky.
This is what I would've normally done but IIRC, the space was sort of tight with the engine in. My Ingersoll Rand though has gotten me out of LOTS of binds in the past.
The heads are already off, the rotating assembly spins really easily. If I just hit it with an airgun, it will want to spin.
Thanks everyone for their imput. I'll make something to solidly lock the crank.
I have used a large strap wrench to keep the crank pulley from moving when trying to crack the crank bolt - since I ground the boss down for the underdrive pulley, I didn't want to rely solely on the remains of the ground-down boss to keep things from moving.
At least one forum member who shall remain nameless has suggested that WD-40 may help.
This guy can fab! How he cut out the circular disc from the stock plate?
http://www.986fix.com/photos.php?vie...category=11&q=
Also lots of nice photos on engine rebuild. You will see the diy flywheel lock tool as well and it's aluminum. I'm sure steel would be even stronger but probably a lot more difficult to fab.
Thanks for all the suggestions. The crank locking bar on the flywheel side gave me an idea. I can't post pictures here anymore but anyone interested in the symplest and maybe safest way to do this can see it on here:
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showth...425#post375425
