Oil pan and Loctite 5900 - how much is too much?

Just finished reinstalling oil pan after I removed it to see if there are any issues - good news - it was perfectly clean - no debris any kind. Now the possible bad news - I tried to be careful with that Loctite 5900 but it was a little bit tricky to install - I tried to keep it within that about 1mm but when I put the oil pan back there's a faint line of that black silicone around the pan. There's very little of that but just enough that you can get a tiny pieces of that with a finger. Now if the same amount happens to be inside as well is that too much? Would that block oil passages etc? Looks like that image exaggerates that a bit - in reality it's not that bad the maybe gives an idea. I did not put oil in yet so if the Loctite tube is still usable tomorrow I could take that oil pan away and reinstall the Loctite - but should ?

hard to tell from the picture, but it doesn't look horrible. If you aimed for very thin bead, I think its fine.

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I would pour in 1Quart and let it sit overnight & check for any leakage.

I just did this for the first time too and is the type of thing I'm not good at. There were a few spots where I know I got it too thick. I had a little of the black showing too and after I ran the car I didn't have any leakage. I saw a video about this and the person (might have been Raby) said to just remove any excess. I think what you're seeing is cosmetic only. I think you're actually SUPPOSED to have a little showing otherwise you may not have a seal in that area. Just remove the excess if it bothers you and make sure it doesn't leak.

That actually looks like a good amount. You should be good to go. Wait 24 hours-ish before adding any oil.

I hate 5900 and refuse to use it. That said, looks like you used about the right amount.

My guess is it does it's job, but it was certainly hard to get out of the tube.

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So...what product do you prefer?

Ok - good news - again.... No leaks. I waited about 12-14h before adding oil in. When applied a thin layer that that Loctite 5900 dries almost instantly in front of you. If I'm not mistaken I read somewhere that there's a 15 min cure speed for Loctite 5900. I agree with Jake - even though it looks like it works it's a bit of pain to apply but probably with a proper seaming gun it would be a less hassle.. ps. I got that from a local official Porsche office.

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Jake, what do you use?

Drei Bond is much easier to work with than 5900 in my opinion

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Dow Corning 730

Dow Corning 730: $125 a tube, no thanks.

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A leak free engine without issues related to sealant contaminated oil is priceless.

FWIW I manage a professional import shop and we use Victor Reinz RTV without issue. I would never pretend to be the authority that Raby is on the M96 but for a weekend DIYer it should be fine. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-victor-r...xoCprgQAvD_BwE

Jake is sealant selection part of your testing process? Curious how you find these potions..

I use Reinzosil or Drei Bond, both work very well. Apparently Hondabond is a very good sealant too, I haven't seen a leaky Honda engine - ever. I think the majority of the work is in the surface prep. I wipe everything down with acetone as a final wipe before applying sealant.

Drei Bond (white tube with clear sealant) has worked perfectly for years for me. Pretty inexpensive too!

This is like a "Cake Baking Contest" they all taste good if done right ! My opinion: Dei Bond seals well if everything is dry, it's thin and very easy to apply, but if a little oily will not stick and will slide/ball up. Loctite 5900 is thick and hard to apply, but will seal bigger gaps and even if a little oily like when doing sump pan or valve cover that will drip oil for days.( like when making a living on Commission, you can't wait "days") and because Porsche says so... For Trackside repairs that have to be done quick and are oily/messy, Permatex Ultra Black/Blue is my fav, it will stick even when very wet with oil and seal very well. A little story about Permatex Ultra. Way back when I had an emergency repair to an oil leak on the side of a metal oil pan below the oil level from a hose clamp rubbing the pan. When I moved the hose clamp oil was running out in a stream, I took a big dab of Permatex Ultra and applyed directly to the hole in the pan and it sealed it up immediately. I waited 30 min before driving and it was still totally dry a year later when I replaced the pan.

Okay so I did this for the first time last night too and the Loctite 5900 was damn near impossible to get out of the tube. Now I see that it wasn't just me. Never again, these arms are only getting weaker with age...

The cartridge of the 5900 fits well into a caulking gun. Makes it very easy to apply�

A few days ago I was thinking about methods how to clean the head properly. The top surface was machined properly and they also cleaned the head with some cleaning solution. What's left - besides the ugly corrosion on the sides - is the head <-> block edge as there's obviously a layer of possible original Loctite 5900. Found out and remembered from a previous post that WD40 might soften that so applied a layer of WD40 and let it sit a few hours. Then with a plastic scraper it was relatively easy the scrape that off so obviously WD40 softens that Loctite 5900 enough so it can be removed with a little bit of effort ps. That edge of that head is otherwise a pain because the surface itself is a bit coarse so that plastic scraper is not able to wipe material from the "deep grooves". I'm in the process of finding a scouring pad or some other tool which does not with 100% confidence include any abrasive material (that rules out among others any 3M Scotch Brites as they contain aluminium oxide - surprisingly many of those Chinese "kitchen" pads also contain some abrasive material esp. aluminium oxide or even sand <- unless that is a translation error).

Keep an eye on your oil pressure gauge. If you have too much in the sump it can clog the intake tube screen and you will struggle to make good pressure. You can also do an oil sample from the dipstick and see if there is an abnormally high amount of silica present.

I have used the Honda certified stuff for years, its NOT a straight silicone, its designed for aluminum metal to metal oil contacting surfaces.. Its not as soft as other sealers either.. Its Always a silver/grey material no matter which vendor you get it through.. I use the permute version on my aluminum V8 in my jeep, on my motorcycle... As noted previously, only leak I've ever had on a Honda engine was a crank seal.