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YOUR RESEARCHIf I Buy Another 996 M96, Here's What I Would Do!
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Suggestion
Ha, penny change compared to what I've put into my car since I bought it.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The usual other PM items could be addressed as well, complete fluid change including PS and brake fluid.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I would use the newest Single PRO retrofit by LNE.
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Suggestion
Since a certain well-known M96 rebuilder who suggests the use of DT40 is the very same gent who believes that the IMSB fails due to load (and, more recently, also due to alignment issues) - neither of which has anything to do with lubrication - I'm curious why you consider DT40 to be cheap insurance for your original bearing?
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Since a certain well-known M96 rebuilder who suggests the use of DT40 is the very same gent who believes that the IMSB fails due to load (and, more recently, also due to alignment issues) - neither of which has anything to do with lubrication - I'm curious why you consider DT40 to be cheap insurance for your original bearing?
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Having learned so much from owning my first 996, I thought it made the most sense to get a TT next. After watching the prices continue to get more and more attractive for buyers, I started thinking what I would do if bought another 996.
It would have to be a 3.6 because of all the extras included with the later models. After the usual PPI and condition check, the absolute first thing I would do is, pull it into the shop and drop the engine and trans. Thats right. The first thing before I even drive it around the block. Just do it and get it over with.
Once the engine/trans is out I would replace the usual problem items, coolant tank, water pump, AOS, oil cooler seals, cam solenoid seals, tensioners, guides, plugs, plastic lines, hoses, etc. spin on filter, mag plug etc., deep sump and baffle kit, etc. Then move on to the favorite, the IMSB.
I would use the newest Single PRO retrofit by LNE. For a few reasons but mostly because its the most logical choice considering cost and reliability.
Moving on to the trans, of course a new flywheel, clutch kit, pivot pin, fork, slave cylinder, etc. The detent fix, guibo disc (if AWD).
Before the engine/trans went back in it would of course be spotlessly clean. The usual other PM items could be addressed as well, complete fluid change including PS and brake fluid.
Afterwards I think an owner would have much more peace of mind in using the 996 for fun, weekends, etc. I wouldn't even consider it as a DD.
Anyway, thats just my thoughts for what I would do and for any person considering a 996 N/A.
After reading more about them online I like the 3.4.
I'd drive the living **** out of it (assuming it was my 2nd 996) and then take care of any issues as they came up. If something does happen, and my new garage is built (and has a lift) then I would have a fun project car on my hands.
For f**k's sake, don't buy another 996. You'll just spend three months disassembling it, you'll be afraid to drive it, and you'll sell it - at a loss - due to all the PM you performed and never took advantage of.
You know, just like the first time you bought a 996.
Damn.... That's like +$7K-10K added to the purchase price. I think it would be worth it if you were planning to keep the car.... mmm... like forever.
BTW: Don't forget to fully detail that transmission and engine before closing it back up.
KK, you need to stick to cars that come with factory warranty. Your post is that of a man with severe anxiety related to his car suffering a mechanical failure. Most of your previous posts have the same mix of fear and anxiety, it is actually very sad.
If you are trying to joke around, it stopped being funny a long time back. If you are being serious, you need some professional help to handle your issues.
KK, are you just trying to ride out your membership or get your money's worth out of it?
All this is really a moot point and wasted breath IMO.
I really hope you never get divorced from your wife as I would have great pity on her of the fear that you would still hang around and be part of her life.
What's the holdup in you getting a TT? You should've had one by now I would think.
Or you could just drive and enjoy the car like everyone else here. If you are afraid to drive it due to not really being able to afford it then it's not the right car for you. No Porsche is.
You certainly didn't learn anything from DRIVING the car...
Interestingly enough I have not had to address any of your so-called "problem areas" on my car. It just goes and goes. In fact, it has gone from one coast to the other and most of the way back again in several trips over the last few years. All without any real pre-trip preparation. And I'd do it again in a heartbeat. I expect most other owners here feel the same way and have similar experiences.
Face it, a 996 is just not for you. And I doubt a 996 Turbo is either. And that's ok too. For me, this is the best car I've ever bought.
Here is what I would do. Buy a high mileage low price price 996 for 10-15K. Change the oil. Drive the snot of it and race it. Then when/if the car implodes sell it as a roller. Then start over. I bet you could drive a different 996 every year or two for $5-6K per year.
But since I am 45 large into my car I am going to have to drive it for 10 years (8 more) to get my moneys worth. But it still makes me smile every time I turn the key.
Cheaper taking all the money you spent "upgrading it" and saving it for IF the car needs something actually doing to it whilst you owned and drove it.
There are a TON of 996's out there that are original and running fine........
Since a certain well-known M96 rebuilder who suggests the use of DT40 is the very same gent who believes that the IMSB fails due to load (and, more recently, also due to alignment issues) - neither of which has anything to do with lubrication - I'm curious why you consider DT40 to be cheap insurance for your original bearing?