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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWeak rant about my 99
Reported or suspected cause
bank 1 cam cover seal
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Reported cause · Original poster
as for the oil leak it turns out it was the bank 1 cam cover seal.
Leading evidence: 'bank 1 cam cover seal' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'bank 1 cam cover seal' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check aos and perhaps' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
no it was definitely filled between max and min line when water pump was replaced.
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Suggestion
A Porsche repartir shop suggested I replace the AOS when the car was on a lift and we saw calcification in AOS body, I noticed that the coolant hose going to AOS look new to me.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Probably what happened hose was leaking, it was replaced but he didn�t clean previous deposits.
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Suggestion
A Porsche repartir shop suggested I replace the AOS when the car was on a lift and we saw calcification in AOS body, I noticed that the coolant hose going to AOS look new to me.
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Suggestion
Anybody out here that�s going to use their car and take it to the track occasionally stick with 0w40, you are tracking your car all the time and take it to the limit often use and abused use a racing oil 50 w viscosity, if you are doing events and fixing brakes and changing oil all the time Valvoline VR1
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29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Bought this car with a clean PPI. Took delivery in January. Did preventative water pump replacement along with thermostat and coolant flush oil change etc. Now a month out From that I�m noticing that I�m losing coolant somewhere. No obvious leaks. While hunting around for said leak I noticed that the back of my engine block is now wet with oil. No leaks on the ground.
Prior owner was using 15w50, switched over to M1 0w40 per the recommendation of the shop owner. I�m assuming the thinner oil found it�s way out somewhere...probably RMS? RMS was replaced 7 years/20k miles ago.
new reservoir tank cap ordered. If that doesn�t work will pressure test to find a source of coolant loss.
All of this was actually discovered as I noticed my oil temps were a bit higher on the digital gauge. Water temp had not really budged. Had I relied on the stock gauges alone may not have noticed the coolant loss until later...
Who said an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? End rant!
Sweaty back likely RMS. Not a huge deal, replace along with IMS bearing at next clutch job. as others have said check AOS and perhaps replace that expansion tank with factory. MY1999 is a rock solid platform once sorted. Always a little turbulence post purchase, get past it and enjoy concatenous decades of maintenance only LeMans type driving. Congrats
The cap is not original. Latest P/N ends in 4. Cost ~$20.
https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-996-106-447-Radiator/dp/B00AGR9WO2/ref=asc_df_B00AGR9WO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14139323682909247228&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003710&hvtargid=pla-579123229367&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60983009663&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14139323682909247228&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003710&hvtargid=pla-579123229367
https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-996-106-447-Radiator/dp/B00AGR9WO2/ref=asc_df_B00AGR9WO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14139323682909247228&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003710&hvtargid=pla-579123229367&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60983009663&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14139323682909247228&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003710&hvtargid=pla-579123229367
Well I would be the first to throw Porsche under the bus, but regardless of PPI any car going on 22 years old is going to break and keep breaking period. Nothing on an automobile gets better with age, except maybe a patina.
Low the sweaty back comment, very appropriate. From what i can tell in my driveway, on the ground the wetness looks like it creeps up pretty high on the block. is that characteristic for the RMS?
Also would like to see a factory original tank pic. From what i gather on google, the original has black markings and the item number on the front. Is that correct? Is this tank aftermarket? no record of replacement.
Thanks again!
Brag away, I feel like I've spent thousands on parts that were not required.
The old single-row IMSB was perfect upon inspection after removal. (I have an early 996 but a replacement 66X engine from 2001)
The old RMS was not leaking but I replaced it for a new type anyway.
The old AOS looks great, but I have no idea of how to test it.
I have a new OEM water pump and gasket which I'll fit at some point because I am running the wrong type of engine coolant (it's blue
)
I guess guess this 20 dollar cap is going to result in a 600 dollar inversion in a tank 😬
Borrowed a pressure tester from autozone. I honestly can not see any evidence of leakage around the tank. Will see what comes of it.
Charlie I purchased the "German Supplier" tank from FCP Euro for well under $300 for my '99. It fit perfectly, all caps fit, and my pressure tests have not indicated any leaks. I know that "buy genuine OEM" is the prevailing sentiment around here but you might want to consider that option. $600 for a piece of plastic is ludicrous.
FCP offers a lifetime warranty as well so if you spring a leak you're only out the time required to replace the part. I could probably knock the replacement out in an hour next time if I had to.
The reason Porsche went to a thicker oil is due that there are cars with scoring out there and that are using a lot of oil. Now, in my opinion that is a bandage. If you use a higher viscosity oil there is going to be more internal friction more fuel consumption, less power. To the guy that the original owner was using 15W50. If that oil was used for a while your internal engine clearances may have been increased and you will need to go back to a higher viscosity oil. I am running 0W40 Mobil 1 European spec on mine but that�s because 40 out of 41 records show service at Porsche dealership. I also spoke with their technical department and after identifying myself I got to the third level tech support and spoke with a tribologist. This oil has a high TBn 12.56 ( so good dispersancy, detergency and acid neutralization), also zinc phosphorus higher than 2100 (antiwear). Oil is reasonable available at advanced auto and autozone also some Walmart�s. I�m a retired tribologist, oil formulator. I spoke to Porsche and they wouldn�t even provide me with a PI ( product information sheet) where it shows viscosity at 40, 100, pour point, CCS, TBn number, zinc and phosphorus content etc. When I called the two big dealers here in Houston nobody had it in stock and it also cost an arm and a leg. I wouldn�t use luquimoly.
There are You tube videos on easy AOS test, take oil cap off while engine is running. A proper test is to take oil cap off and hook up a manometer. A Porsche repartir shop suggested I replace the AOS when the car was on a lift and we saw calcification in AOS body, I noticed that the coolant hose going to AOS look new to me. Anyway a fellow PCA member had a manometer and checked for me at the cars and coffee get together, no issues. Probably what happened hose was leaking, it was replaced but he didn�t clean previous deposits. Get this coolant advance had it on sale for $16.99. Also a cool thing about buying Mobil one is you get oil bundles free filters. One final piece of advice with these cars people tell you you have to replace parts that don�t need replacement and apparently issues are misdiagnosed all the time and you finish spending a bundle, I will always get at a minimum a second opinion and post questions here. I�m in the Houston area and I have already seen some shops where I�m not certainly taking my car too.
I replaced the AOS with a brand new, Porsche OEM one. I wanted to test the old AOS off the car as I don't know whether or not to throw it into the trash!
As far as coolant goes, I already bought 3 gallons of the concentrated type of Zerex G-40 Euro Pink from Napa and 3 gallons of distilled water from Walmart. I also bought the UView 550000 Airlift from Amazon and the new brand 'silent' 10 gallon air compressor from Harbor Freight. My issue is I have very little time to do the work but I am getting there slowly.
I�m retired from Valvoline. They own zerex, that�s one of my stock holdings. If you ever want honest straightforward technical advice about lubricants call 1800-TeamVAL.
Anybody out here that�s going to use their car and take it to the track occasionally stick with 0w40, you are tracking your car all the time and take it to the limit often use and abused use a racing oil 50 w viscosity, if you are doing events and fixing brakes and changing oil all the time Valvoline VR1
racing is a great oil.
ok so there is a government mandated fuel economy standard, it is called cafe (corporate average fuel economy). For every tenth of a mile that the automaker misses that number it was a $5 fine per car. So as an example let�s say FOMCO sells 5 million vehicles a year and they missed the cafe number by .5 mpg because the number one vehicle sold in America is the F150. Ford that model year owes 5 million times $5 times 5 tents missed is $125 million that Ford has to pay the government that�s why they sell a lot of fuel efficient cars, and they try to use as light an oil as possible. Have you ever seen a gas gussler tax on a window sticker, there is where it comes from. The manufacturer is just passing the cost to the consumer. Don�t get pissed, we paid $3 a gallon for premium in Europe is more than $8 , and like Paul Harvey used to say that�s the end of the story.
I'm not a professional mechanic or oil "expert" but I seriously doubt that the change in the weight/type/brand of oil used has anything to do w/the leak.
However, I wish you luck finding its source and hope it's not too expensive to fix.
. So to a purist 100 💯 synthetic means poly alpha olephin and esters to help with seal swelling. The group three stocks have other kinds of combinations, seals are rubbers that get hard and brittle you put some different oils on them and yes you are going to leak, have done this for almost 30 years of my life. The best piece of advice I can give you, tty to know what type of oil was used in the car for the last few years.
no sign of a cooling system leak so either my cap is not sealing or perhaps it was not screwed down all the way.
as for the oil leak it turns out it was the bank 1 cam cover seal.
if you had overfilled the system with coolant once it got warmed it will release the extra pressure and leak, as soon as it is back to normal no more leaks.
Ok so we ended up going down the rabbit hole... the AOS looked in bad shape with the bellows disintegrating and gunky oil build up all over it. Surprising how bad it was since this this was replaced in 2014(15k miles ago). Ended up replacing that and whole host of while you�re in there parts. Just bit the bullet and bought a new expansion tank as well. Old aftermarket tank was fairly yellowed.
oil cooler o rings, ims and bank 2 chain tensioners, intake bellows
my son doesn�t need to go to college...
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