Bolt Extraction Tool Suggestion?

Grand plans today to remove sump plate and inspect for foreign material. Surprised how loosely torqued these bolts are. Even so, one decided to break. Bolt extraction will be a first for me. I believe it�s a 6x16. Can anyone suggest a good bolt extraction tool kit? Thank you! I need to extract the broken 6 x 16 bolt @12 o�clock. Found a few plastic pieces on the inside of the sump plate. Thinking chain guide/rail...?

I always start with the least invasive. A lot of the "easy out" type solutions have the potential of snapping off in the bolt, so you ended up with hardened tool steel to fix instead of an old bolt. I'd suggest getting a very sharp, small chisel type punch and try to "drift" it out. Ie, punch an indent and see if you can get it spin by tapping it with a hammer. I would do this in combination with a couple days of penetrating oil. I use a 50/50 combination of ATF and Acetone, but PB blaster will also work. If you can tap it out, I would drill it out with a reverse drill bit then get the appropriate tap to clean it up.

Try a small left handed drill bit. The biggest challenge will be to keep it centered in the bolt.

I fought with a bolt like this for several days. $100 at a shop got it out. They welded a nut onto the broken bolt and used a normal wrench to turn it. All other extraction methods I tried failed. Do you have access to a welder, or a friend with one?

As suggested above either working with progressively bigger and bigger left-handed drill bits and then using an extractor of some form. I recently had a shop extract an exhaust manifold stud and they used an extractor that as it was tightened into the hole created by the drilling it would have 5/6 "fins" or "teeth" that would engage into the metal. I wish I could tell you what this tool was called but they apparently use it very regularly. A mobile welding service may be able to very carefully added weld until there is enough to grab with vice grips and from there use heat if it is really stuck. It may pay to have it towed and done professionally by someone who deals with this regularly, I paid almost $1000 all in (tow there/back shop fees) to have a broken exhaust manifold stud extracted on my E46 M3, but it saved me from pulling the head. Good luck, it looks like you have plenty of access for whatever the method ends up being used.

As suggested above either working with progressively bigger and bigger left-handed drill bits and then using an extractor of some form. I recently had a shop extract an exhaust manifold stud and they used an extractor that as it was tightened into the hole created by the drilling it would have 5/6 "fins" or "teeth" that would engage into the metal. I wish I could tell you what this tool was called but they apparently use it very regularly. A mobile welding service may be able to very carefully added weld until there is enough to grab with vice grips and from there use heat if it is really stuck. It may pay to have it towed and done professionally by someone who deals with this regularly, I paid almost $1000 all in (tow there/back shop fees) to have a broken exhaust manifold stud extracted on my E46 M3, but it saved me from pulling the head. Good luck, it looks like you have plenty of access for whatever the method ends up being used.

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For $1,000, I would have just pulled the head on that E46 M3, only because I am never going to let a car defeat me, especially a BMW M3. As for the topic at hand, I would drill it small to large after center punch it. It does not look like there is room for a drift or chisel. This is a 6mm hole, so I saw a trick once where you use a much larger drill bit for the first 1mm. That will basically drill a dead center hole, and then you get down to business with a small drill bit and go from there. There is always a carbide grinding bit with the dremmel tool to fix the off-center small hole. In the end, it's only an M6 hole, how far off can you get? There is always the Timesert fix it kit.

You can only weld it if some of he bolt is sticking up out of the case and that is not the case here. To use an extractor you have to drill a hole in the bolt to insert the extractor into. So just buy a set of left handed drills on Amazon and start with the small one, center punch the bolt first, and work your way up in size. My experience is tat with left handed drills the bolt will probably come out before the hole gets big enough to insert the extractor.

Hi Guys. Thank you all for your valuable input! I liked the chisel approach initially, but became concerned about slipping and damaging the threads. Lots of YouTube video demonstrations. Im going to attempt a center punch, small drill, then use the appropriate snap on bit just ordered. I was concerned about going cheap and having the tip break off in the stud. looking forward to reporting success or disaster!

I wish you the best of luck! I�ve had extractors break off inside the broken bolt, so I�m super leery of them. A hardened bolt extractor broken off inside a broken bolt is the stuff of wrenching nightmares. AMHIK To be fair, my experience is not from high quality tools, like SnapOn. You will probably fare better than I have.

When you have a broken bolt below the surface, this extractor set has worked the best for me, it has a alignment tool to keep the drill center in the broken bolt and its easy to remove with extractor pin. I have the Snap On version for over 30 years, otherwise with expose bolt I weld a nut to the bolt. RIDGID 35585 10 Screw Extractor Set, 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch Broken Screw Extractor - Threading Tap Extractors - Amazon.com RIDGID 35585 10 Screw Extractor Set, 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch Broken Screw Extractor - Threading Tap Extractors - Amazon.com

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Not true. Just use the welder to build up the broken bolt until it is proud of the case, then slip a washer over the nub. Weld the nub and washer together, then weld a nut onto the washer. I used this method to pull half a dozen broken manifold bolts out of my suburban. Very easy.

this: You Tube

Ended up having to drill and tap. The snap-on bit did it�s job. But, the reverse thread just kept digging further into the stud. The stud wouldn�t budge. Probably should have heated up the bolt in hindsight. But, the job is done and all buttoned up.

If the bolt didn't come out that the Snap On bit didn't do it's job.

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There�s some truth to this statement. I think the issue was the fact it was a through bolt. 22 years of crap on the bolt end just seized it. The weirdest thing was it didn�t take but 10lbs of torque for it to snap. The other twelve took maybe 5lbs of torque to break free. 7lbs torque to tighten. Has to be the lowest torqued bolt on the whole car.

I would say most of the bolts on our motors r only 7.5ft-lbs