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YOUR RESEARCHClutch diagnostic question
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Replace basically
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Basically, everything between the transmission and the engine was replaced.
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Suggestion
I know the DMF is a $$$ part .3 that I have had experience with were out of spec and needed to be changed.Plus it is recommended that they should not be machined....
Leading evidence: 'Replace basically' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace .plus it is' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I know the DMF is a $$$ part .3 that I have had experience with were out of spec and needed to be changed.Plus it is recommended that they should not be machined....
Replace friction disk, pressure plate, and release bearing
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Suggestion · Original poster
So, I�m planning to replace friction disk, pressure plate, and release bearing on my 99c2.
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Suggestion
For the oil cooler, at a minimum you should change the o-rings "while you are in there".
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Replace .plus it is
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Suggestion
I know the DMF is a $$$ part .3 that I have had experience with were out of spec and needed to be changed.Plus it is recommended that they should not be machined....
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Thanks for looking! So, I�m planning to replace friction disk, pressure plate, and release bearing on my 99c2. It will be a DIY first.
I have a feeling I may need to order another component though and I�m seeking a diagnostic just based on my recent experience with the failing clutch.
So, the clutch seemed fine until it didn�t. I recall pressing the clutch pedal and it felt like something snapped. The clutch will still engage. But, I feel a vibration when the pedal is pressed. And the clutch will engage much higher than before. And, it will slip under acceleration.
I have replaced the master cylinder recently and just ordered the slave cylinder too. Is it possible a tooth on the pressure plate snapped? Pivot ball? Release fork? What else should I order to have on hand?
Thank you for your ideas and thoughts!
Brian
I don't have any guesses on the symptoms you're experiencing but you might also consider replacing the pilot bearing as a cheap "while you're in there" item.
Could be a few things but your clutch is deff failing. I would stop drivng it asap. Most likely its the dual mass flywheel or the springs in the pressure plate coming apart.
Its so hard to diagnose this way. When you get everything apart it will be apparent what's not right. What made you believe the clutch slave cylinder was bad? If you don't disconnect the hydraulic line you don't have to bleed the it.
Hope it�s not the DMF. I thought the OEM friction disc doesn�t have springs??? I haven�t looked in the box yet. I assumed the DMF eliminated the need for disc springs.
I agree. I just thought the symptom might be obvious to someone. Should be obvious once I get in there.
The slave cylinder is a while you�re in there deal. I replaced the master and just figured why not update the slave too.
I had a similar thing happen when the rivets holding the friction material sheared off and a chunk of friction material got loose. Not on a 996, this was on a 1977 Datsun Z car.
I don't know how common it is to have clutch arm or clutch pivot issues, but I recalled that there had been discussion about an upgrade for these parts. I found this parts list in an old thread;
According to the TSB you need:
996 116 712 04 Release lever (modified)
996 116 716 02 Ball journal
996 116 741 00 Retaining spring (clip)
996 116 743 00 Sealing ring
999 917 788 00 Optimol MPO (enough to many vehicles)
000 043 024 00 Olista Longtime 3EP (enough to do many vehicles)
I replaced my clutch last year. Basically, everything between the transmission and the engine was replaced. There are some rubber pieces, a spring, a ball pin mount, I did the research on FCP and Pelican parts. Everything got ordered and I had it on site. When I split it open and started investigating it was easy to start replacing everything.
I also had in stock the oil cooler and some other parts in case I needed them when i got everything apart. I sent back that and the a few other little things. Anything that I had ordered in relation to the clutch job got put into the car. As stated above, once you're in there a few dollars in parts is cheap.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l-w-pix-2.html
Best,
This makes a lot of sense. I think my clutch assembly is original, so I wouldn�t be surprised to find chunks of friction disc floating around. Thanks for the share!
You may want to consider the guide tube (PN
9p1141181)
on the transmission the throw-out bearing rides on which can get worn over time, especially if the throw-out bearing is worn or bad.
https://www.porschemarinparts.com/oe...tube-9p1141181
I know the DMF is a $$$ part .3 that I have had experience with were out of spec and needed to be changed.Plus it is recommended that they should not be machined....
I had my DMF machined in January for $75 which made for a nice $500 savings. The shop inspected it and they have a mill with a fixture to hold the friction plate solid which is the only way it can be done. Also, it can only be done once. I knew my flywheel was good though as it only had 40k miles since a warranty replacement for noise back in 2005 and the shop confirmed it was fine. If you have high miles or it's badly burned better to spend the money. I also did the 997 fork upgrade for about $120 in parts but didn't notice any difference. For the oil cooler, at a minimum you should change the o-rings "while you are in there". Careful on the 4 bolts though, 7 lbs (IIRC) and no room for a torque wrench.
