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YOUR RESEARCHECU replacement charges
Leading reported evidence
Replace on monday
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Get a list of the parts they have swapped on monday and then we can help.
Leading evidence: 'Replace on monday' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'issue of the drain channels being clogged' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check /' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
It sits outside uncovered, and I think between water seeping into the convertible top, it sitting at an uphill angle in the driveway, and what I now realize was probably an issue of the drain channels being clogged with leaves, it's just wet inside.
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Suggestion · Original poster
A YouTube video shows these take around 10 minutes to replace...I can't speak to how long it takes to reprogram.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
issue of the drain channels being clogged
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Suspected cause · Original poster
It sits outside uncovered, and I think between water seeping into the convertible top, it sitting at an uphill angle in the driveway, and what I now realize was probably an issue of the drain channels being clogged with leaves, it's just wet inside.
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29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I'm being told I need a new ECU...at 3 hours of labor to install ($600) plus another $300 to reprogram.
Is this absurd?? A YouTube video shows these take around 10 minutes to replace...I can't speak to how long it takes to reprogram.
If so, is this just life with a Porsche? Or is there really any way to argue/negotiate this type of thing??
The 3.0 hours to install probably includes 2.9 hours diagnostic time....just sayin
DME/ECU's never send out a code that says " Hey, just replace me".....
@Porschetech3: Actually, they�ve already rung up 2-3 hours of diagnostic time (I have a mystery issue where it starts sometimes and doesn�t others�I think their mindset is that they�ve eliminated everything else, so they figure it�s the ECU).
So yeah, the 3 hours of labor in question is completely in addition to that, it�s just to install the new ECU itself. Given it literally looks like a 10 minute job in the YouTube video, I don�t get it�but I don�t know what leverage you have to argue it when their car�s in the shop already.
Sounds like a lot of guessing on your dime. I’d discuss with shop manager / owner and either cut your losses and run elsewhere, or they get really reasonable really fast and make it right. If it is truly narrowed down to the ecu, then I’d try the ecu doctor folks out and get to the real answer and solution ( if replace is needed or just repair or if it is nit the issue at all ). Assuming they have ruled out ignition switch and other bits that can cause these issues and are common fixes and part replacements ? Hope that helps - scrh1
^^^This^^^ and� If you want to save big $, you need to learn how to do the simple stuff yourself. Getting to and removing and reinstalling the ECU is literally a 1/2 hr DIY from start to finish. Do the math and you can extrapolate how much money there is to be saved by DIY�ing the things you can. Good luck getting through this one with your bank account intact
I had a shop spend many hours troubleshooting and came to a similar conclusion: bad ECU. So I sent the DME and Immobilizer with one key to ECU doctors. They could find nothing wrong with my ECU. They were right.
Yup best $99 diagnostic fee i ever spent to verify full operation of my dme. Thats why u said send it out. They can repair or replace and program it even if its bad much cheaper then a dealer.
No start as in “turns over but doesn’t fire” or “won’t turn over?”
Does it only have issues starting when hot or cold?
Does the Indy have specific experience in 996s? (Do they know what the y-cable is and its affects on intermittent starting?)
What all has been checked/replaced?
Where are you located?
Perhaps someone here knows another Indy that can swap an ECU in 1/2 hour.
Out and back in should be around 1 hour if they have to wait in between.
I assume book time is not 1.5h each.
I‘ll have to take a look to see.
Thanks so much for everyone's help. I'm happy and typically able to fix most things myself (heck, I ran 85 feet of new gas line in my home and re-did all the electrical). Car computers are a different territory, but I understand trying the ECU Doctors route.
Two of you suggested the ignition switch. I have no idea if they looked into that (they said they tried replacing a few items, but I'm not sure what I believe). I can ask on Monday.
And just to briefly recap the actual issue: When I turn the key to start it, the engine cranks over 1-4 times (usually 2 times) --
literally no more --
and won't start (whereas starters typically continue cranking over and over as long as you keep the key turned). I can try it 80 times in a row...same thing. Now...every now and then, it
will
magically manage to roughly fire up, and once it's running...jeez, it runs beautifully. So this is really just a starting issue. *I do notice it stands a better chance of starting if I jump it...I think the starter is just turning over faster, and I
did
recently replace the mass airflow sensor, but I don't think the relates to this issue. Anyhow, that's the issue.
Thank you again
Both the TT and the N/A car have a start lock relay that's energized by the ECU/DME being in communication with the immobilizer and having the clutch all the way down (or) the shifter in park.
I doubt that's the problem here; more than likely it's the Y cable or a ground somewhere.
Get a list of the parts they have swapped on monday and then we can help. There r diagbistics with the correct scanner that can help. Sounds like they r throwing parts at it.
also try this eventhough it doesnt make sense. unplug the maf and see if it fires. This will through a code but will put the dme in a default and it will start if the maf is bad. we have seen a rash of bad bosch and aftermarket maf sensors lately
If you really want to argue the labor for DME/ECU replacement
Go to the local Library and look at a Motor or Chilton Labor Time Standard Guide;
Lookup labor time for DME/ECU replacement. for 996 it will be listed in tenths of an hour ( like .3 ect) and will show factory time in parenthesis and out of Warranty time without parenthesis and will describe any nuances such as if it includes programming.
This is how Dealer Techs get paid, nothing more. The diagnostic times although are "AT" which means actual time, and Dealer Techs must document everything that the diagnostic times includes such as which wires were tested and what the value was ect. they don't get to charge Porsche for scratching their azz..
Sure sounds like a y-cable issue.
Throw an Amp clamp on the cable and see what happens on a scope.
Has the engine been out lately?
Check the grounds either way.
Is this at a dealer or an Indy?
Too many young mechanics use the “throw parts at it” these days instead of using an oscilloscope to diagnose a problem.
I admit to doing this occasionally when a part is on hand and easy to R&R.
But most often I grab my scope and determine what’s the cause.
To learn how to diagnose, check out Scannedanner’s book!
https://www.scannerdanner.com
Usually ECUs are resilient and will shut off a sensor if it (or wiring) are behaving badly.
But sometimes a faulty sensor or wiring can cause a ground short or worse yet, (over) voltage back to the ECU that can cause a transistor to fail in the ECU.
Usually it causes the replacement sensor to fail to work even though the sensor, or faulty wiring, has been replaced or repaired and the ECU has been power cycled.
It's usually not an intermittent issue.
There are possibly other causes, but this is what I've seen most often.
Thanks again for your help. As mentioned, I'll call the shop tomorrow (Monday), but one additional detail I forgot to mention:
During the winter rainy season, my car totally fills up with moisture. It sits outside uncovered, and I think between water seeping into the convertible top, it sitting at an uphill angle in the driveway, and what I now realize was probably an issue of the drain channels being clogged with leaves, it's just wet inside. Not really wet carpet or anything, but tons of condensation on the inside windows. I only mention in case any internal water may have possibly damaged the ECU, or I also see immobilizers are susceptible in these cars as well.
Ok the same thing happened to my s4 cabriolet went for a new set of computers $1800 all from clogged drains there is no drain near the computer box so when it fills up with debris your ecu floods I have a similar issue with my 996 by the battery tray so now it’s a monthly vacuum of drain holes
The Immobilizer is under the driver seat and the ECU is mounted on the firewall behind the rear seats in the 911 Cab. The ECU is probably not getting any water based on its mounting location, but the Immobilzer certainly can.
