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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHChain tensioners
Leading reported evidence
Replace unless oil debris is present or oil
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The tensioner itself shouldn�t need to be replaced unless oil debris is present or oil changes haven�t been done with enough regularity.
Leading evidence: 'Replace unless oil debris is present or oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend amount' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
My cam deviations are a bit over the recommended amount.
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Suggestion
The tensioner itself shouldn�t need to be replaced unless oil debris is present or oil changes haven�t been done with enough regularity.
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Suggestion
Could he define which specific pad was causing the rattle or he just replaced all of them(including IMS?) ?
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Suggestion
Remind me which pads can be changed on a 5-chain motor without having to drop the engine?
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19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Rattle on start up seems to be pretty consistent. My Indy says chain tensioners is going to be next project. Does anyone know if using heavier 15w40 oil would increase the rattle noise on cold starts? I was using 5w40 before and cannot remember if I noticed the rattle as much.
I had to have my tensioner pads replaced. Didn�t matter what oil I used if it was Mobil 1 0-40 or Mobil 1 15-50 (only used a couple times).
The mechanic put Motul 5-40 back in after doing the pads, and my cold start rattle is pretty much gone.
One of your tensioners is loosing pressure when the engine is turned off for a while. Heavier oil probably won't make a difference. You will have to replace the part.
Yes, the updated one was official in late 2000. My car is built 08/2000 and had the update one. After changing all the tensioners I still have the cold start rattle if the car have been parked for 3-4 days....thus my question for which pad needs to be replaced to get rid of it.
The one that's making the noise.
On a serious note, you will have to try to find where the noise is coming from and start from there. It is also possible the new tensioner is bad too.
I have pictures of the tensioner pads. They are worn. It�s the pads on top and bottom of the cam tensioners. I did not replace the other tensioners at that time (when I had a failed solenoid).
My pads were clearly and visibly worn. The tensioner itself shouldn�t need to be replaced unless oil debris is present or oil changes haven�t been done with enough regularity.
64k miles 1999 C2 3.4 5-chain. Worn tensioner pads top and bottom, right and left banks.
Did you have other work done at the same time? My car requires engine out for the IMSB and I was wondering how much more it would cost to do the pads at the same time. My cam deviations are a bit over the recommended amount. (MK-I 2000 C2 Tip)
I had the tensioner pads done at the same time as the solenoid replacement, yes. Engine in for this work. Wasn�t cheap - I had to do both sides. I think it was like $4-$5k total. The solenoid part itself is like $450-$500, so $800-$1000 plus a lot of other small parts, fasteners, exhaust clamps, exhaust bolts, maybe, another $100-$150. The rest was labor.
I think you meant the "Variocam tensioner pad" mounted between the two cam shafts. This worn out pad can be diagnosed with the out of spec timing delay number using a scan tool, like Durametric.
There are other tensioner pads mounted else where that the original poster may be talking about.
The 4 pads closest to the tensioners (heads) can, but on the 3.4 MkI engine, the cam covers have to come off, the exhaust must come off, and a good mechanic will lock the timing.
I was told that one side wears faster than the other side. Not left vs. right bank, but pressure vs. slack side. So for example, the passenger bank top pad wears, but the bottom not as much, but it�s the opposite on the drivers bank, or something like that. So a less experienced mechanic will be able to visually inspect one pad, and it might look OK, but the other can�t be easily seen and could be much worse. I think the tensioner must be removed to get all pads to come out, per bank.
I have to say, I think this design is crap. Let�s put some $20 plastic piece that requires 8 hours of labor to get to that wear out at 40-80k miles.
At least the new plastic replacement parts are stronger and supposedly don�t wear out as quickly as the old ones. And the mkii engine solenoids are replaceable without having to take the cam cover off.
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