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YOUR RESEARCHreplacing undermount aircon pipes
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those clips
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Leading evidence: 'those clips' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'those clips' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace air con pipes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So I have changed both air con pipes that run under the sill.
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Suggestion · Original poster
So I have changed both air con pipes that run under the sill.
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Suggestion
You could also argue that since these pipes undergo a fairly significant thermal delta (given what they're used for), using an adhesive that completely limits longitudinal movement for a body that regularly increases and decreases in length due to thermal expansion could also fatigue the metal.
Use some construction adhesive, i personally like locktite pl premium
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Suggestion
That or use some construction adhesive, I personally like Locktite PL Premium that stuff is the bomb.
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Suggestion
You could also argue that since these pipes undergo a fairly significant thermal delta (given what they're used for), using an adhesive that completely limits longitudinal movement for a body that regularly increases and decreases in length due to thermal expansion could also fatigue the metal.
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So I have changed both air con pipes that run under the sill. The problem is those clips. They are held on by a plastic hollow bolt onto a welded thread onto the car floor,
Problem is the welded threads rust and become smooth, the new plastic clips have nothing to bite onto. So they rattle about.
Has anyone solved this? I was thinking silicone glue between the clip and floor
That or use some construction adhesive, I personally like Locktite PL Premium that stuff is the bomb. If you ever need to get it off, you could chip/grind it off....but it doesn't sound like something you would do soon.
Just put it on, and let the car sit for 24 hours and you'll be set.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/const...dhesives.shtml
There is other stuff on the same page that is clear. Anything like this will work.
I'd go with the silicone, since when it cures it will be rubbery and help damp vibration. Anything that sets up very hard is another vibration opportunity...
If it's going be rubbery, it will allow the pipes to flex more, which would create more of a low stress, high cycle fatigue. I personally would want the fasteners tight to the body to minimize relative motion between the pipes and the body. Rubbing is not good.....unless you are with a hooker in Reno!
Cyclical fatigue can happen regardless of the viscosity of the adhesive. Since we don't know the resonant frequency of the lines in their original state, and we have no idea about the degrees of freedom provided by the original fasteners, postulating that a non-rigid adhesive will result in fatigue failure seems a little...intentionally academic.
In my unscientifically-founded opinion, a good-sized gob of silicone is going to work just fine for damping the AC lines. They're already bouncing around unrestrained and haven't failed; securing them in some manner is probably better than leaving them alone. You could also argue that since these pipes undergo a fairly significant thermal delta (given what they're used for), using an adhesive that completely limits longitudinal movement for a body that regularly increases and decreases in length due to thermal expansion could also fatigue the metal.
If this was my car: I'd plop down a blob of RTV and check it off as "good enough."
I wish I had something as clever as the Reno Hooker analogy to polish this off with - that's good stuff...
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