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YOUR RESEARCH996 Oil Filter Change questions...?
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Replace filter
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Leading evidence: 'Replace filter' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check sump plate and oil pickups' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
What possible downside would there be to checking the sump plate and oil pickups?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I might just for ****s and giggles drain the oil and inspect the magnetic drain plug very carfully and run the still newish oil through a strainer of some sort with an additional magnet to see what's in it that I can find.
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Suggestion
I would definitely drop the sump plate and inspect thenoil pickup tube.
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Suggestion
(I didn't always listen to my mechanic buddies' advice either and I made it through my automobile repair escapades reasonably unscathed.)
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Suggestion · Original poster
I might just for ****s and giggles drain the oil and inspect the magnetic drain plug very carfully and run the still newish oil through a strainer of some sort with an additional magnet to see what's in it that I can find.
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So I just changed out my filter on my 996 and I wanted to post two photos up and see what the peanut gallery thinks about them...
First is the filter element, it was cut open and inspected… I found a few gray gasket turds and no large chunks of metal.
The second on is a photo of a small but powerful magnet that I ran in and out of the of all of the pleats and I was able to come up with a very very small about of fine metal particles. Also you can see the gray calk turds and my key for reference of scale.
Knowing that the motor was rebuilt recently I can definitely see where the calk turds come from… but what about the fine metal particles… I think it looks ok… what you do you all think?
I have a magnetic plug. Also had a recent rebuild. First drain of oil 1000 miles after rebuild had a little bit of metal stuff. Second oil change had less. Third oil change none.
I also have a magnetic plug... but I did not change the oil just the filter for sake of an inspection.
Before she gets put to rest for the winter I might pull the oil pan and give the bottom end a good looking over before I fill her up for her end of year nap!
As far as the oil analysis in still on the fence... some swear by it some people say its a waste of money.
I plan on changing the oil at least once a year even if the mileage warrants it or not... and at least two oil filters a year... just for peace of mind. If I'm not beating on it or short tripping the motor the oil analysis will just show me the standard break down of the oil matrix...
The motor was recently rebuilt and an updated IMS was installed... I believe that the fine flakes and the small amount is negligible... but I wanted to post this up to see what the forum is feeling about it..
The small amount of metal wouldnt concern me. But the sealant is a concern. I would definitely drop the sump plate and inspect thenoil pickup tube. It can get clogged with sealant "worms" and lead to oil starvation.
My 2 cents: the value of UoA for me is the snapshot of the "metals" that are too small to see with the naked eye. And IMHO, its one of the best ways to spend $25
But sounds like you already have this figured out.
If this is the first oil change after the rebuild the trash is normal.
You can expect -- though it might not appear -- to see some more trash in the oil and filter the next oil change too.
I changed the oil in my new 08 Cayman S at 750 miles. The filter element was filthy with trash. The oil filter housing oil was full of fine mostly aluminum particles. So much so the oil had a metallic sheen to it.
Changed the oil again before 1500 miles and the filter was not nearly as bad as it was the first time and while I could see a bit of fine alum. in the oil filter oil it was not enough to show up in a digital picture.
Third oil change at 2K miles and I didn't even bother to look. Had this done at the dealer. Talked to the tech and showed him the pics of the Cayman's first oil change filter and filter oil. He said the filter's appearance was normal for a first oil change. They come out looking terrible. He said never bothers to look a the filter housing oil as he just dumps the filter housing upside down to let the oil drain.
Relax. What you are seeing is to be expected after the engine has been opened up and worked on.
You are correct... this is the first oil filter change for me since I got the car... I would say it looks normal for a car that has been worked on and still breaking in.
I will definitely drop the pan next weekend and give her a good look over and take a few pics of the magnetic plug and anything else I find!
Thanks for the feed back!
Unless there is something suspected of being wrong I prefer to leave the pan (or oil sump plate) alone.
You will likely find stuff/trash if you drop this but that is to be expected if the engine was worked on. A new engine sheds stuff -- even more so than a rebuilt engine -- and some of this ends up at the bottom of the oil pan or in the sump.
If the oil pan/sump plate is not leaking my advice is to leave it alone,
There is something suspect, huge worms in his oil filter after a rebuild. Thats a clear sign that whoverer rebuilt the motor goobered sealnt all over the place which can lead to clogging of the oil pickup tube.
Why in the world would you discourage the owner from doing one of the easiest and most foolproof procedures to rule out a possible catastrophic oil pickup tube blockage.
What possible downside would there be to checking the sump plate and oil pickups?
The OP is not reporting any symptoms/signs of impeded oil flow or low oil pressure. If there was any blockage he'd know about it long before he changed the oil and found that trash.
The sealant debris are not very big at all. They look small enough in fact to pass through the oil pick up mesh -- if they were in the sump area -- which would let them go through the engine oil pump where they would be smashed up into smaller pieces and filtered by the filter. The pieces would end up in the oil filter housing oil.
The condition of the pieces though suggests they didn't arrive from the sump as they would not be even as large as they are had they gone through the oil pump gears.
The general rule with cars is if it ain't broke don't fix it.
My mechanic friends always cautioned me against dropping the pan or the oil sump plate with no real reason to do so. Part of this arose from the difficulty in getting the oil pan back on the engine leak free. Often the pan also sealed against the crank shaft, was part (1/2) of the "RMS", and this was a lot easier to assemble leak free when the engine was out of the car and everything was clean.
Also, what one would likely find might send an uninformed person into a panic. A new engine sheds a lot of trash, some of it in the form of what might look like scary metal bits, and someone not aware of this would have a heart attack upon seeing this for the first time.
It reads like the OP is going ahead with this regardless of my advice. That is of course his call. (I didn't always listen to my mechanic buddies' advice either and I made it through my automobile repair escapades reasonably unscathed.)
You guys are killing me with this back and forth!
I changed the filter for piece of mind... no crazy issues or problems found.
I saw some caulk snakes... minor at best... and some super small flakes of metal that is magnetic...
I'm not really to keen on dropping the whole pan-sump assembly till I get the torque settings and any sealant I might need. So what do I do now to make sure I am being pro active with this motor?
I might just for ****s and giggles drain the oil and inspect the magnetic drain plug very carfully and run the still newish oil through a strainer of some sort with an additional magnet to see what's in it that I can find.
Any thought on that plan of action?
I would not be unbolting anything but the magnetic drain plug... safe and sound for now... right?
I might also just send a sample for an UOA... anyone suggesting any specific link or place they like to use?
(Edit) I just ordered a free sampling kit from Blackstone...
If you are going to do it yourself, I can't emphasize to use just the smallest amount of sealant, a tiny bead is all you need. The reason you have worms is because someone goobered tons of sealant on something on your motor.
Another trick is to take two long bolts, cut off the heads and screw them in finger tight at opposite ends of the sump to use as guide pins in putting the sump plate back on.
Yeah, that was my thought as well...it would suck for you to pull off the sump plate, confirm that everything looks fine, and then gum it up with sealant when you put it all back together.
5CHN3LL
I hear you loud and clear! Using the right sealant and the right amount is an art... Best trick I found to use was to run your sealant bead very carefully and slowly keeping it as round as possible... then walk away for a while till it skins up... then slowly install the pan but just barely to make contact all around... then walk away for awhile and let the sealant firm up before you return to torque it to spec!
This will let you slow down and watch that the sealant is in contact and not being pushed all over the place... the sealants job it to help seal the pan and block together not to just ooooze all over the place. A thin continuous bead is all that is needed to do its job!
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