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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTrack alignment / cooling
Leading reported evidence
Use 2 toggle switches
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I simply used 2 toggle switches that I installed in the batwing,
Leading evidence: 'Use 2 toggle switches' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'gt3 adjustable control arms (mounted reversed)' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace f & r' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I realize from research on this fine forum that to get the -2.75* front camber I want, my only choice is likely the GT3 adjustable control arms (mounted reversed).
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have track time this weekend and would cough up the $$$ and do an interim alignment but only if toe changed a ton with the raise.
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Suggestion
When you turn the key off, the fans will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down.
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gt3 adjustable control arms (mounted reversed)
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I realize from research on this fine forum that to get the -2.75* front camber I want, my only choice is likely the GT3 adjustable control arms (mounted reversed).
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5 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T083035Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Long time lurker coming out. Some intro but then some urgent questions.
I am targetting -2.75* F / -2.25*R camber but otherwise the Kussumaul GT3 alignment specs for my '02 C2. Target set-up is heavily skewed to a track priority. Currently run 235/295 MSPC's, H&R coilovers, Eibach adjustable sways, solid rear links, strut bar, VF supercharger, Fabspeed exhaust, shortshifter, PF rotors, Pagid Yellows, GT3 brake ducts, SS brake lines.
I have just raised the car to about 645/640mm (~25.25")ride height (GT3 specs) as a previous owner had it way too slammed at around 630mm. Felt like it was on bump stops too often on corners. Note this is about max height in the rear for the H&R package. Front still has lots of range -- not sure why the mismatch.
I realize from research on this fine forum that to get the -2.75* front camber I want, my only choice is likely the GT3 adjustable control arms (mounted reversed).
I am about to order the Tarrett control arms. Before I do, questions for those who have run these arms on C2's.:
- approx how much in shims to get to this camber at this ride height?
- Inside Monoball vs. rubber bushing choice: is the monoball worth the extra $350 at the track? Is the harshness really that evident on the street?
Also
- As stated, the car has just been raised 10-15mm (1/2") but I think I'll hold off on the alignment until the new control arms come in next week. How much would toe have changed F & R? I have track time this weekend and would cough up the $$$ and do an interim alignment but only if toe changed a ton with the raise.
- The supercharger has its heat issues on hot track days. Any recommendations for any of 1) 3rd rad, 2) aux oil cooler, 3) fabbing up a cold intake for the K&N filter stuffed way up the back of the bay?
Thanks
The VF system comes with a 3rd radiator and intercooler. Doing my fan mod for both the front radiator and engine compartment will keep your engine cool at the track as well as reduce your intake temperatures substantially. Make sure the air is properly purged out of the intercooler system. If this is a track only car, yank the thermostat out of the car.
Radiator Fans
Connect a wire to the ground (Pin #85) of the 2 high speed fan relays located on the relay carrier located in the driver’s side foot well. The relays are #20 and #22. Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and then connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point.
With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on both radiator fans providing maximum cooling. When you turn the key off, the fans will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off.
Engine Compartment Fan
Connect a wire to the ground of the relay located in the relay carrier behind the passenger seat, driver’s side. Relay #8. . Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. I simply fed the wire along the driver’s side of the car and under the door sill. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point.
With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on the fan drawing air into the engine compartment. When you turn the key off, the fan will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off. This mod helps keep the engine compartment much cooler when driving around town and is particularly beneficial to any engine that draws its intake air from inside the engine compartment, such as the EVO SC.
If you are adventurous, you can automate the operation of these switches so they will switch off at a specific speed, or operate when vacuum is present only, etc. You can choose any style switch you want and even use Porsche switches (relay required). I simply used 2 toggle switches that I installed in the batwing,
Jim
