Window not going down when door opened

This problem just started about a week ago and I have no idea what the problem is. I thought I'd post to the forum before taking it into the shop. Here's the problem. 1. Open passenger door. 2. Window does not go down the 1/4" or so that its supposed to so when you close the door the window is outside of the weatherstripping. 3. If I roll down the window then it makes a bit of noise (its from the window coming off the weatherstripping) but otherwise functions properly and closes fine. 4. I would say that the mechanism that makes the window go down (upon opening the door) is broken but I'm not sure if that's the case. I say this since when I hold the door handle then the window goes down. Its when I release the door handle that the window goes back up. Its as if the mechanism is working in reverse. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Is it the first sign of the mechanism failing? Thanks in advance for your insights. Cheers- John

Read this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-switches.html

Sounds like a window regulator to me...

It's the microswitch in your inside door handle. You can test that by just slightly pulling the door handle and if the window doesnt drop you have to change the complete handle. Unfortunatly you can't just buy the switch by itslef. And if the window comes back up after opening the door then its the microswitch in the door latch.

The fact that it goes back up when the handle is released makes it sound like a microswitch. However, the other symptoms sound more like a window regulator. Both maybe??

Try pushing the window down with your hand. If it pops back up properly when you close the door then it's the window regulator. For what it's worth I've been doing this on mine for over 2 years and the window works fine.

All- Thanks for your replies. To clarify, if you keep the handle up (open) then the window will drop the appropriate amount. However; when you release the handle, then it goes back up to the full height. Also, I cannot manually push down on the window as it won't push down. So here is where I am today. I read the micro switch plunger replacement thread as suggested. After reading the thread, I followed the instructions (including ordering the plunger piece) and replaced the micro switch plunger. I was able to successfully replace the plunger but it still is behaving the same way as before. So, does this mean that I have to replace the entire micro switch mechanism? If so, any ideas on if there is any place that sells the whole unit? If its not the micro switch then any suggestions? It doesn't sound like its the window regulator since LordVicious' suggestion is what I have to do on the drivers side - and my local p-shop told me that the regulator is bad on the drivers side. Thanks again.

Is this the micro switch? I found this on Pelican Parts and it has a diagram but I can't even tell where this piece is located on the door - does it connect to the door handle? http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...1-05%29%20%20# Thanks again.

I copy pasted this for you. Hope it helps. It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): I didnt put this photo in as you already saw it on another posting..... It shows a broken switch unassembled in parts. You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number is unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).

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Dealer sells the whole assembly. But before you spend the money, make sure the latch mechanism is mounted high enough in the door so that the striker bar from the jamb pushes the cam down when the door is pulled open. After I did the plunger surgery it was still malfunctioning until I realized the latch mechanism was out of alignment. Took two minutes to loosen the triple square bolts and move the assembly up a bit.

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My car has started to do this today as well. My drivers side window will not stay that fraction lowered to allow the door to close to seal the window, it does go down when you lift the handles inside and out but does not stay lowered when door is open. I did adjust the latch mechanism mount higher but didnt fix the issue. My indie said the door latch assy is faulty and needs replacing. He said he's done quite a few of these.

Just realized how old this thread is....

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May be an old thread but the problem is a new one to you. When you pull the handle the window should drop. If you release the handle without unlatching the door the window should go up again. The door latch switch controls this. If you pull the handle enough the door latch opens and the door pops out a bit the window should stay down. However, I can't recall if this was a problem with the door latch switch or the door handle switch. I have had both replaced in one door, both regulators replaced and the door lock assembly replaced in one door. (They all wore out.) Your tech has diagnosed the door latch assembly. If you trust him enough to work on your car then listen to him. He's the pro.

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Thanks Macster I always enjoy reading your posts and experiences. Its going to my indie for replacement. Cheers James

My driver's door did this just as the dealer was returning the car to me after a service. While the service rep went off to order the new microswitch I played with the key in the lock and turning the ignition key on and off and starting and stopping the engine and putting the windows up and down. And the system cured itself. Seems the brains of the car have little strokes now and then and they have to reteach themselves. In the meantime the back up temp solution is to open the door, get in the car, roll the window down with the window switch, close the door, then put the door back up. If it is the right door it is much easier. To make the car water tight until you get it fixed, leave the window down when you get out of the car, go to the passanger side and put the window up, then lock the car.

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Or you can just lift the handle just enough to trigger the window drop but not the lock mechanisme and just close it. Ive been doing that with my driver door for a few months now. Been too lazy latley to look into it.

door lock assembly. mine had the same issue 3 weeks ago. I had extended service plan and they billed the company roughly $600 for the part/replacement.

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+1 for door lock assembly. Had the same symptoms as the OP and had the door lock assembly replaced. problem solved!

Can anyone confirm this is the part? Like others, the inside and outside latches both lower the window but the window will go back up with the door open. Drivers Side: Part #: 8N1-837-015-C-OEM

Open it up and resolder the solder joints. I had all these symptoms and it was cracked solder joints in the door latch

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Definitely door latch assembly. The latch signals the window to roll up when the door closes. If the window is rolling up too soon, the latch is malfunctioning.

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Sorry if this has likely been answered in 100 different places, but driver side door is the issue for me--no window movement at all when I pull either in or out handle, so the window is outside when the door is shut. Will this part take care of it? https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...s=0&SVSVSI=896

Yes, that is the correct part for the outside left door microswitch

I replaced both of my window lift Mech. as the window was moving north to south, a few months later the window would start to go down some times and then up. I had the same issue had to open the window so I could shut the door properly. The door switch was the culprit, the small micro switch in the door lock was the issue, there is a small tip on the switch that wears along with the cam, there are videos on this. I was going to rebuild myself. After much deliberation I bought a new one but found out you could use a different one ( and do a small change to one of the levers) it's very easy. I bought part 3D1-837-015-C its about 1/2 price, works great. The drawing shows the VW part # and I could not find it, so I got the Porsche one above, you can see the red plastic lever that you have to cut/file, etc . It cut costs in half. All the best .

Hello again, I replaced both of those $36 switches on both dorrs when I had the panels off for the Window Lift mechanisms, as I said it was not a month later that the Door lock switch was found out to be the issue, hence the previous message. Best thing to do is take it out and watch the video online and it shows you how that small plastic button and the cam wears. Look at this VW lock assembly its the same as what I sent above and it describes the issue with a window going up and down. Hope this helps ​​​​​​ You Tube Once you have the door panel off look at all of it.

Thanks for pasting this info. I had scenario #3, ended up replacing the door lock assembly but did not fix my issue. Next up will be the micro-switches. My issues started after replacing a dead battery so I wonder if I have awoken some electrical gremlin somewhere more central than the door. I also read somewhere that someone fixed it by changing the memory setting of the window so that info was not stored in the radio. I'll see if I can find that info.

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Is this part the wiring for the switch in the center console, not the door latch? That is very interesting, I have the same issue, window does not go down. However, in addition, the lock button light on the dash is always on. It is causing all sorts of issues w the alarm and locking and battery draw. I believe it is the passenger side, reasonably certain. Does anyone know if the lock light being on, combined with the window not going down are the same issue? Looking at the old door latch mechanism, I was taking it apart to replace the microswitches, see if that is not a fix, the plastic cam that activates the micro switch was worn away. I am willing to be that was atleast part of the problem. The rubber boot around the micro switch was worn away, but the cam certainly had enough wear to cause an issue. Might not always be just the microswitch.

I was having a similar issue and narrowed it down to the door latch being the likely culprit. The $383 Porsche part was out of stock and backordered everywhere I looked so I took a stab at what looked like a similar door latch for an Audi TT. Even if I could only use the microswitch from it for the old one I wanted this fixed. I replaced the entire lock yesterday and it works just like new. $38 all in. Ha! I'm fully prepared to replace it with the P part if this one doesn't hold up but it was what I could get during these "unprecedented times". Here's the link on Amazon for the one I got. Good luck. Amazon Amazon

What a great find. The passenger side one is like $900 new.

So, I'd like to amend my previous "hack". It seemed like everything was working as it should until I had to lock the doors (rare moment) with the key fob. The door wouldn't lock or unlock. All other functions (to include the alarm) worked as they should. I scanned it with a Durametric and it came up as "lock not recognized". Whoops. I ended up doing surgery and put the micro switch from the new lock on the old lock (as others on here have done) and all is well! So, the micro-switch effectively cost me $38 and I took the door apart three times but now I have a door that works so I'm happy. Just buy the micro-switch.

I fixed my issue with a bicycle barrel nut found from advice from the 986 forums You Tube http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-g...d-cable-3.html

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NICE WRITE UP"�����.. but my problem is the passenger door will drop a bit on the aft portion of the window but not the front when either inside or outside handle is used, not enough to open the door�� hum, could that be cable stretch, needs tightening at the regulator? Btw the window goes up and down nicely when using the window switch. Could I have a partially failed regulator? But the window works fine with window switch. help please before I waste to many hours tearing into this. Thanks

Where exactly did you put the bike barrel adjuster? See next sorry

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where did ya put the barrel adjuster from a bike, how�d it fit in there?

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now I have discovered my car won�t lock or unlock with the key in the lock on driver�s side�..odd, could that affect my window not dropping enough on the passenger side? Wouldn�t think so. Drivers door window is fine tho slower than the passenger window going up and down.

You need to get in there, no way around it. Either cable is slack or that what keeps it tight is broken. Lock issue is probably separate altogether but requires getting the lock out of the door too.