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YOUR RESEARCHWheel hub removal tool
Leading reported evidence
Use ...only problem
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Exactly what I use...Only problem with mine is, my brush applicator broke off the cap, so now every time I grab it, the stuff gets all over me
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Suggestion
It is on the recommended products list for the installation of the igniter plugs in the main burner and afterburner sections of the General Electric J79, F101, F110 etc turbojet engines.
Leading evidence: 'Use ...only problem' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend products list' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used .5" x 1.5" steel for the top "spanner" The "legs & feet" are 1 "x .75".
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Suggestion
It is on the recommended products list for the installation of the igniter plugs in the main burner and afterburner sections of the General Electric J79, F101, F110 etc turbojet engines.
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Suggestion · Original poster
When ever I take anything apart (at least if it's going to be exposed to weather) I use a-s when it goes back together.
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Suggestion
I know a local Porsche mechanic who swears on using Milk of Magnesia as anti-seize.
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Recommend products list
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Suggestion
It is on the recommended products list for the installation of the igniter plugs in the main burner and afterburner sections of the General Electric J79, F101, F110 etc turbojet engines.
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22 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Does anyone have one of these tools (SIR Hub/bearing extractor) handy for measurements? As I'm not a pro and won't be using this thing over and over again (I actually just need it for two hubs) , I think I can make something up if I have the dimensions. I really just need to make the U shaped yoke/"bridge", as I have a full bearing puller kit with corresponding adapters...
So I wound up making up a tool to use with my bearing press
Hub removal tool
And it worked perfectly!!! 👍
I got both hubs and both wheel bearings removed this afternoon
I'm hoping to get everything reinstalled tomorrow
Yup! Thank you very much... I just couldn't see laying out another $400 for something so simple. Granted the SIR tool is beautifully done and more precise and will probably last forever (i.e. if you're a pro, you buy it) - but between this for free and my $90 Harbor Freight bearing removal tool, it was a piece of cake.
So, I'm happy to report that in addition to getting my hubs and wheel bearings removed and reinstalled (really a piece of cake when you've got the right tools). I was finally able to get the frozen bolt out of the strut clamp (part of the aluminum wheel carrier casting). It literally took me close to a week of soaking, pounding, light heating, etc. until I was finally able to get the bolt turning. Once I did it wasn't long before I got it out...what a killer. I would have been done a couple days ago had that thing not given me such a hard time. I'm just glad I was patient and didn't break anything
here are a few photo's for your viewing pleasure
As you can see the threads that were inside the aluminum are packed with oxidation - the stuff is like stone! ��
Anti-sieze is your friend! I'm pretty ocd when it comes to anti-sieze. When ever I take anything apart (at least if it's going to be exposed to weather) I use a-s when it goes back together. I know that Porsche says not to use it on the suspension components, but I have to admit that I did. With the torque values on these parts, I don't see them coming apart by themselves. This being said, I'll check them on occasion and re-torque to spec.
I know a local Porsche mechanic who swears on using Milk of Magnesia as anti-seize. It's actually Magnesium Hydroxide. It dries to a white powder and is effective as an anti seize in extreme heat applications, several hundred hours at 1200F.
Reportedly Milk of Magnesia is used in the Air Force on jet engines. It is on the recommended products list for the installation of the igniter plugs in the main burner and afterburner sections of the General Electric J79, F101, F110 etc turbojet engines.
Magnesium doesn't interact with aluminum parts like aluminum oxide anti-seize products do.
The trend is to use colloidal graphite +/-nickel dry film thread lubricant/sealer .Depends if you need electrical conductivity.
MOM is way cheaper and easier to find !
I use this on anything w/o any problems
Amazon.com: Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.: Automotive
Amazon.com: Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.: Automotive
"I use this on anything w/o any problems
Amazon.com: Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.: Automotive
Amazon.com: Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.: Automotive
"
Exactly what I use...Only problem with mine is, my brush applicator broke off the cap, so now every time I grab it, the stuff gets all over me
Not enough club. Even with cheater bars I can't get enough on it to get the outer race out. Almost tore a muscle trying. Tried heating with a heat gun but didn't seem to make the difference.
If you have a welder, weld a bead all the way around the race to be remove, it will fall out by the time it cools down. works every time. MIG and stick welder works good.
Any chance you could provide the dimensions of that home built tool? Also, is that threaded rod part of the harbor freight bearing set or did you have to purchase and extended bolt?
** I think (I'm not near my garage and won't be any time soon) the "uprights or legs" are 4 - 4.5", the cross-member is about 6" and the "feet" are about 1.5"... The bolt came with the bearing puller set. If I remember correctly the hole in the cross-member is 3/4" (for the bolt to pass through). Obviously, these are all approximate measurements. Once you take your wheels and rotors off and the hub is exposed, it's pretty easy to figure them out. Good luck
** I just found this from I earlier post I made on Renntech : "the depth is about 4.5" the width overall is about 7" and the two short bottom legs are 1.5 " ea. leaving roughly 4" between them. I used .5" x 1.5" steel for the top "spanner" The "legs & feet" are 1 "x .75". The hole for the bolt is .75"
This thread inspired me to make my own hub puller. It is a bit different, I explain why in this thread.
http://986forum.com/forums/performan...tml#post638442
