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YOUR RESEARCH1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
Leading reported evidence
Check power at the start relay
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I went ahead and checked the power at the start relay with a test light.
1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
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Leading evidence: 'Check power at the start relay' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check large wire' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
Check voltage at the ignition switch and it got 11.7
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Oh and I checked the voltage at the ignition switch and it got 11.7 when key was turned and no crank.
1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
Install immobilizer and it was programmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
i just installed a new immobilizer and it was programmed to the 3 keys I have and ECU by ecu specialist (Ecu doctors)
1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
Test when u turn the key
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1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
Clean /maybe apply dielectric grease/retighten
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Suggestion
Difficult to access, but might be worth the effort to remove the alternator for access to starter/cable(s) and clean/maybe apply dielectric grease/retighten.
1999 996 c2 cab manual no crank no start out of nowhere
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Has anyone ever went to start thier Porsche and gets nothing? My battery is good, starter spin when bypassed, and the immobilizer is dry. 99 996 c2 cab. It happen out of nowhere. I think its not reading the key. I bypassed the clutch switch, put i battery jumper/charger on the car to make sure it wasn't the battery. It must be the pill in the key, do they just take a random crap? Oh and door lock havent work since I bought the car its like it not a tumbler in there. Oh and I checked the voltage at the ignition switch and it got 11.7 when key was turned and no crank.
There is a start and an interlock relay on the back shelf. Those need to be tested when u turn the key. Those will tell u if u have a wiring issue or the dme is not allowing the signal to pass through to the starter. The Bently manual has the diagrams. If i remember when i get home i can try to explain this more in depth after checking the manual.
Also, If memory serves me correctly, the starter cable(s) have been the source of no start conditions. Difficult to access, but might be worth the effort to remove the alternator for access to starter/cable(s) and clean/maybe apply dielectric grease/retighten. Try this if your other diagnostic attempts offer no joy. Then have cake.
Here is a pic of the relay and starter. U need to check the yellow wires on pin 87 for 12v when key is turned to start. Pin 30 is also yellow (12v too) and comes from the ignition switch. Pin 86 is re/bl and is the relay coil 12v. It powers all the relays back there. Pin 85 ye/w/br is a ground from the dme pin 66.
Basically if pin 85 grounds out from the dme, the key and dme r working properly. If all the relay pins test out and the relay is good then u can move into the engine bay and test the yellow wire all the way to the starter. If its giving 12v to the starter u have to check the large wire from the bat/alt. If thats good then its the starter.
Bust out the multimeter, good luck.
I think he said/meant he had already jumped the clutch switch. Of course there are a multitude of things to check. Do you get 12V at the main jumper point in the engine bay? That jumper point is hot 12V all the time. 11.7V at the ignition switch? Hmmm..seems like it should be closer to 13V before start. Are you sure you have a fully charged battery?
The key "pill" is a passive RFID chip that does not go bad. It is programmed once and is read by the immobilizer in the key surround. When you insert your key in the ignition, the key RFID pill is read, and if what is read matches the immobilizer programming, then good to go. If not, then no go.
Yes, there are start/run relays to check if everything else checks out. Located under parcel shelf rear. Also, there are fusible links in the power distribution box. Should have continuity across the fusible links. Located on passenger side footwell firewall.
Do you normally have to apply the brakes to start or does depressing the clutch suffice?
If the former then check whether the brake light switch works by observing your brake lights when you step on the brake pedal.
thank you Jeeper,
what if you have a Tiptronic, as mine not only won�t start but when I do start it by jumpering out 30-87 on the coil. The tiptronic says energy mode and stays in one gear only and the gear selector lights on dash all flash.
I haven�t checked those. But with a jumper on the relay 30-87 terminal I can start snd drive the car all day. So the actual starter works fine.
I just can�t start it without the jumper and the relay in. I have tried new relay. I�m about to test the two terminals 85-86 to see what I get with key on.
I also get the tiptronic limp mode
I went ahead and checked the power at the start relay with a test light.
I get power when the ignition is turned on 87
i get power all the time on 85
nothing on 86
