Rencool electric a/c

Kind of an odd one but looking for opinions from armchair engineers. I am wondering if I could mount this system in the frunk and use existing 996 a/c components, if it could be adequate to cool the car? It doesnt really get much above 85f in the summer where i live. I would be running the basic 12v system. Why would I do this? I have a swapped engine and want to make room for a dry sump and the engine based compressor is taking up the space I want to use. Maybe some small benefit of moving some compressor weight off the back end as well. https://www.electricaircon.com/produ...32141389332617

2 things u need to check. 1 is the fittings. Fits Australian standard MIOR fittings to Suction & Discharge ports for Automotive Air Conditioners. Not sure if these r standard automotive. If they are there r a bunch of companies that make build parts for ac lines. Red dot and proair are 2. Your local hydraulic shop probably makes them too. The second is they r rated from 2kw to 6kw. U need to find the rating in the factory unit. Its out there on google somewhere. I have built 2 or 3 ac systems from scratch and its not that hard if u understand the numbers.

I think it only runs 2kw with 12v? Unless im reading that wrong. My question is with the stock 996 2x condenser system et al, will that be strong enough?

There's absolutely no way that's going to keep your car cool. You will need the biggest one they have and then some. Also, your alternator is rated at 1.6 kW. I have a friend who owns an airplane with electric A/C. It's a Commander 115 if you want to look it up. It uses two 28V alternators in parallel to power the A/C. Each alternator puts out 100A and is just about maxed out running the A/C. That's 5.6kW for a cabin about the size of a 996. And it doesn't really do a good job at all, it's barely OK.

I guess I can run a 200 amp alternator - I should mention my car is powered by a crate ls3. I think the stock one is 160 amp. I couldn't find anything about the Rockwell Commander other than its a plane from the 1970s. Not sure that is a good example.

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the kw ratings they r posting r for compressor energy output not the power it takes to run. They also make a dc powered danfose compressor for hotrods too. Im pretty sure it runs around 60 amps for 6k btu of cooling which is 1.75kw. Electric ac compression is hard on 12v dc.

Also one reasons the electric compressors work in electric cars is because they run at 370v or something like that and that drops the amperage way down. More info https://www.vintageair.com/tech-topi...or-my-hot-rod/ this is what i was talking about but now it looks like it dosent exist

why not call rencool and ask them ?It would be helpful if they had examples .

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The plane was reincarnated for a short production run in the mid-2000's by Commander Aircraft. That's what he has. It's very nice, almost Lexus-like inside. But I digress. Your car has a 1.5 ton A/C unit, almost every car has a 1.5 ton A/C unit. That's around 18,000 BTUH. To convert BTU's to kW that ratio is 10,000 BTU = about 3kW. So to match the factory output you'll need something like 5.4kW of cooling capacity. But wait, that doesn't appear to include efficiency of the compressor - or more accurately it assumes 100% compressor efficiency. I haven't any idea what the efficiency of those little electric compressors is, perhaps 60% or 70%? So you would need around 8kW of electric input to get 5.4kW of thermal output to match the factory A/C. Even if you only need 5.4kW of electric power input that's still 391 Amps at 13.8 Volts. Just for grins, to carry 391 Amps continuous at 40C rise you would want a 350mcm cable. Or you could use three runs of 1/0 cable. There's a reason EV's use a 370-Volt A/C compressor. To supply 5.4kW at 370 Volts uses less than 15 Amps.

Found this: You Tube . Most of these guys seem to be in Aus, so hopefully they are well versed in hot temps and a/c robustness. I did have a convo with someone selling a 12v compressor and it seems simple enough to set up. Wrt real life cooling I got this response: “Obviously mechanical systems work well and are proven but the electric compressor even though smaller in size is also successful in removing heat from the cabin overtime, cycling will be achieved a little later than the mechanical system but they work well. Depending on the heat load you should get good results, just allow a little more time to remove the initial cabin heat and once it has it down to a manageable level it will keep a good temperature.” i might have to ask this same question in the air cooled forum as these Classic Retro guys seem to have a system as well. I have asked about the compressor specs but have not heard back from them yet. They do have a compressor only option so they could also be a solution. You Tube

Not sure that it matters but I would try and track down the hose size affects on the compressor .The Porsche suction side (return ) is big -5/8 id .The other question would be how noisy is it .If located in frunk sound tends to amplify .From personal experience my electric power steering pump developed noise and was really annoying (since replaced ) .If you can retain the current evaporator and condenser install would be pretty easy - it is an interesting potential solution

Haha I also have an electric p/s pump and I do hear it whirr/whine slightly from time to time when the car is at idle. They do indicate 70 db when it runs flat out. That said with a 500hp ls3 in the back it generally sounds like I’m being chased by the civil war. I am trying to make everything civil however as this is a street car, so noise is a concern.

I know autometrics has fitted an electric ac system in their 991 cup. Not sure of specs of it.