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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHEngine position after engine mount replacement
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engine mount install
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause · Original poster
The problem was the engine mount install from the top.
Leading evidence: 'engine mount install' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'engine mount install' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check by trying' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced my engine mounts with Rein AVE0382P Engine Mounts purchased on amazon, from what appeared to be orginal mounts.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I ended up using another jack to raise the side I was replacing.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I and many others here have used Rein mounts without issue.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Check by trying to rotate the mount from above - can tell if properly seated as it wont rotate if lower square is seated in engine carrier."
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Suggestion
Now having said that, changing the intermediate shaft bearings is something that you need to just right but the rest (clutch and rear main seal) are a very easy thing to do.
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Suggestion
I changed my motor mount yesterday after changing out the water pump and low temp thermostat, I had been following this post and took a look at what could happen, first of all it pretty hard to screw this install.
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I replaced my engine mounts with Rein AVE0382P Engine Mounts purchased on amazon, from what appeared to be orginal mounts. It's a noticeable difference under speeds of 110 mph. Once I exceed 110 I now get a lot of vibration in the cabin. I would consider it excessive and did not have this problem before. Once it started I reduced speed the issue disappeared and put the car back in the garage. I suspect I have one of three problems:
1. When I dropped the new ones in the engine position is misaligned.
2. I should not have bought cheap mounts, and I get to do it again.
3. Something else...
If it's number 1 is there a way to check for this and measure alignment? Or am I missing something?
I encountered the vibration on the first post install test drive.
I and many others here have used Rein mounts without issue. It is possible you got a bad one, or counterfeit one. I’d go back and check the installation. There is a square section that has to align properly. Confirm torque specs, and that nothing else was misaligned when reassembled.
I don't think you have a problem with the motor mounts or engine position. That would be most noticeable at idle or under acceleration/deceleration.
Finger pointing at the last mechanical procedure is usually a good practice, if the symptoms can be related, but can lead you astray if not.
How long has the car sat without driving? The low profile Porsche/sports car tires are well known for flat-spotting when sitting causing a road vibration at high speeds. Happens all the time. When mine do this , usually a rip to about 120mph for a while re-rounds the tires and vibration is gone.
not sure what I could have misaligned dropped new ones in had to give one more pump on floor jack to get enough thread for bottom nuts and then completed install. Was concerned that I possibly lifted engine to high. Will reach out to vendor after double checking as suggested
Where the mount attaches to the carrier (big allow plate bolted to rear of engine) the carrier has a square hole that must line up with the square section on the mount post. It�s easy to not line this up properly if not paying attention.
Maybe it�s just me, but I like to eliminate my possible errors before blaming the part.
"
not sure what I could have misaligned dropped new ones in had to give one more pump on floor jack to get enough thread for bottom nuts and then completed install."
There's your smoking gun... If the mounts were properly seated, you wouldn't have had to jack up the engine further... You better check it - I'd guess that the mounts aren't seated properly in the engine carrier... Good Luck
I know I got the two bolts correct. if I got that wrong I should lower the car on my self next time...as for the square peg square hole, I'll double check it but I doubt thats the case since I did mis align it when originally putting it in. But will double check as suggested
I would double check proper seating - I just replaced my motor mounts yesterday (99 C2).
old vs new:
Had read about tips/tricks/etc on here, RennTech, 101 book, Bentley manual, etc.
Did one at a time so engine wouldn't shift too much (even w jack underneath).
Penetrating fluid on lower nuts.
Was concerned about just your issue - wanted to make sure lower square on motor mount was sitting in engine carrier properly before tightening.
I had plenty of thread showing underneath - but still needed to raise engine so could engage the motor mount properly in the engine carrier.
Check by trying to rotate the mount from above - can tell if properly seated as it wont rotate if lower square is seated in engine carrier.
I ended up using another jack to raise the side I was replacing. Was surprised how much I had to raise it. And that is with plenty of threads showing already!
If you didn't have much thread showing - I'd be concerned about this and would raise the engine further.
If you don't do this, you will be raising the carrier as you tighten it to torque (I'm not even sure how much 63ftlbs is going to raise the engine) - and will leave in question whether the mount's lower portion seats itself in engine carrier properly or not.
M
Is the not aligning the motor mounts an issue when you put in new mounts or could I have done this when I lowered motor to put in new water pump?
The reason I ask is because I can have the mechanic look at when I bring in for something else on Wednesday. I just lowered and jacked back up and torqued bolts on the bottom.
I'm not going to be able to look at it until Friday/Saturday, but yes did double-check that I ordered the right part. The consensus is probably correct and I most likely did not set them properly and as
@ManM
pointed out I will do "
Check by trying to rotate the mount from above - can tell if properly seated as it wont rotate if lower square is seated in engine carrier."
If I did set them correctly I'll contact the vendor. Either way, I'll update this weekend. Thanks, everyone.
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Is there someway to tell if the squares weren�t lined up? I seems the gap between exhaust pipe and bumper the same, the motor doesn�t have any side motion if I grab and apply side to side pressure. Do they usually just line up? Wish this was mention in the water pump instructions I saw.
If the square guide part of the stud weren't seated correctly; on the two top bolts wouldn't you have a gap between your mount and the engine bay? My memory tells me from my Rein installation that if the mount were seated incorrectly then those two top bolts would not line up at all.
with stockish mounts, its almost impossible to get the install wrong. And you had to do another pump on the jack because the new motor mounts have a stud that extends less since the mount hasn't stretched.
Double check your install, but I'd guess thats not the problem.
Odd that its a speed based problem. Have you revved through the rev range in the lower gears?
You may have a bad mount out of the box, but that would usually be obvious at lower speeds/rpms as well
The only real potential problem I could see is if the Square section of the bolt/mount (at the top right before the rubber) were too large/not fitting into the receiver part of the engine carrier...It may just be a question of filing the edges a little bit so it fits down into the receiver...
I changed my motor mount yesterday after changing out the water pump and low temp thermostat, I had been following this post and took a look at what could happen, first of all it pretty hard to screw this install. after removing the old motor mounts, I install the new motor mount and jack up the engine enough to push the new motor mount up at least a 1/4 in from the body, the square hole on the motor mount plate is quite a bit bigger then the square on the mount itself, and without any bolts on the top two bolt you could turn the mount 1/8th turn in the squares. also you can look underneath the car and see the space between the mount and the plate, you could also go by feeling it. after looking at your picture you have from the bottom, I'd say 100% your good
^^^It's a simple albeit slightly "involved" DIY. Not difficult by any means, but if you don't have a comfortable space to work, at the very least decent (heavy duty) jack stands, and a good jack or two it might be daunting, not to mention dangerous (you will be laying under the car after all...).
I got a good quote today going to take a second look at the mounts tomorrow then send it to the shop for the other stuff. We all would have had a good laugh on my IMS post if the mounts are giving me hell.
You shouldn't be doubt yourself like this or else you will never learn anything new. A failure is just an opportunity to learn from it and should't be a deterrent. Now having said that, changing the intermediate shaft bearings is something that you need to just right but the rest (clutch and rear main seal) are a very easy thing to do.
If you rear main seal leaking and is the clutch giving you problems right now?
I was going to do it myself but looked at the numbers between parts and the tools I would have to buy it no longer made sense from the cost perspective.
Clutch seems fine, There is some oil slowly seeping from the transmission engine joint, so I just figured its time to deal with it. I'm gonna check out the other stuff before fully committing. Did an oil change last week everything looked good. I'll scope it sometime in the next week. So far I'm either lucky or the fear surrounding these cars is grossly overblown. I really like it but at the end of the day it's a 20-year-old, 20k'ish car, it's currently saving me from my self, and preventing me from pulling the trigger on an R8.
R8 - awesome car, but a totally different league when it comes to maintaining/fixing it (think Lambourgini with an Audi badge). The 996 can get expensive, but it doesn't have to be (unless you want/need a new engine).
I failed to line up the square peg with the square hole correctly. pulled it out payed more attention when putting it back in and vibration issue resolved.
