17 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSpark plug tube seals
Leading reported evidence
Replace upper and lower seals
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Replaced upper and lower seals on the tube as this one was very easy to reach.
Leading evidence: 'Replace upper and lower seals' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean fresh oil' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For the heat shields, I just used the bolts from the old coils.Perfect fit.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
Spark plug tube came out with my clean fresh oil on it.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
I can't remember if I changed the bolts, I may have used some longer M5s that I had laying around.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T122219Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello all, while waiting for a new coolant hard pipe (due to a change in design on one of the coolant hoses) I decided to see what the oil leak underneath the spark plug was all about. Thought you would appreciate seeing the info. Replaced upper and lower seals on the tube as this one was very easy to reach. Hope to change spark plugs too, but that�s another day; waiting to get back on the road this week after water pump, etc. the forums say that changing plugs �isn�t hard� but I�m not so sure.
Oil weeping down drivers side front plug; picture should be rotated clockwise 90 degrees; I don�t know how to do that
Spark plug tube came out with my clean fresh oil on it. Kudos to the suggestion of using a 1� expanding rubber plug;transom plug to yank it out
Black: old inner seal; green: new inner seal; red: old outer seal.
Thank you wyovino; however I�ve only done the one tube for now. I want to make sure I get everything back together and everything is good before I go changing too much stuff at once. Tell me - lots of discussion re: removing mufflers and not removing mufflers. From my cursory glance, the plugs seemed pretty difficult to get to. Some people say it�s a cake walk, some people say it�s a suicide mission. What�s your experience?
The mufflers are real easy to remove in most cases. The plugs then can be done with you eyes closed. In fact I can remove the mufflers with my eyes closed too.
I'm about to change my plugs/tubes/coils in the next week or so. I've also been doing a lot of reading about this. There are two camps:
Camp one: "You have to remove the mufflers. If you don't you're an idiot and it will take you twice as long."
Camp two: "You don't need to remove the mufflers. If you do you're an idiot. You'll break the muffler connecting hardware and it will take twice as long because you'll need to buy new nuts, bolts, etc"
Welcome to the wisdom of the internet
In reality, I think it depends on your access situation. If you have a lift, if you have smaller, wrenches with movable extensions, how big your hands are, etc.
For me, I am buying what I *think* are the right tools and will try to do it without removing the mufflers. We will see which camp I end up in.
This was the first thing I did when I took delivery of my '98 C2 a couple of years ago. Plugs/tubes/coils. I'm in camp #3 - you
don't
have to remove the mufflers, but it
does
make it easier to get to #1 and #4. Get a 1"
boat plug
to pull the old tubes and install all new tubes and o-rings. Make sure you hear the 'thunk' to ensure the tube is fully seated before inserting the spark plug. My #4 tube had a small leak and the oil caused the coil to swell so much that it broke when I pulled it. (Good thing I had planned to replace it anyway!)
I just got mine 7 weeks ago so this will be my first big maintenance item too. I have the boat plug already and have tested it out in the new tubes. I have almost all the parts. Pelican sold me on the newer 997 style coil and I'm hearing the heat shield bolt needs to be extended to fit correctly with them. I'm waiting to hear back from them on what parts might be needed for that. I'm also doing the oil at the same time and I'm waiting for an oil drain pan to ship. I'd been outsourcing oil changes on my cars for years so I don't have one anymore.
6mm washers will space out the heat shields. Oil changes on 996s are the easiest I have ever done. If you have the budget, get the
LN Engineering spin on filter adapter
as well.
FCP has a kit that includes all the necessary hardware:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...ru-996ignclkt1
All of the items from that kit can be purchased individually as well, but I'd suggest finding an alternative to spending $45 on washers.
Is 6mm the thickness of the washer or the diameter? If it's the diameter, how thick do they need to be? Is there enough bolt left over to use the newer washer?
Thickness. Bolt is either a M5 or M6 (if I recall correctly) so the I.D. should be a little over 5mm to a little over 6mm. I can't remember if I changed the bolts, I may have used some longer M5s that I had laying around. I'll be able to take a look Thursday and post a pic.
OK. Thank you. This is my first time and don't even know what that assembly looks like yet. I'm going to do some searching to see if I can find a picture.
