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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLN Drain Plug leak
Leading reported evidence
Check with 2 torque wrenches
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Check with 2 torque wrenches' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check with 2 torque wrenches' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use the permatex gasket sealer because that is what it is made for.
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Suggestion
I would clean the area extremely well with brake cleaner, degreaser and then wash it down good with a garden hose.
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Suggestion
So when I change the oil, I use a tiny bit of permatex ultra black gasket maker between the washer and drain plug, and drain plug and sump and then it doesn't weep oil.
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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No!
I think they recommend 19 ft/lbs.
I can't remember for sure, I have it written down somewhere.
I know it is under 20.
Check to make sure you don't have 2 gaskets on it.
I've seen it done...pssst, did it myself once.
Sweating or residual oil from it being changed? A few drop of oil on the ground will slowly spread and look like a big leak. I would clean the area extremely well with brake cleaner, degreaser and then wash it down good with a garden hose. Recheck after a day or two to confirm it is or isnt leaking.
Also, was the gasket new? Is it the correct type? They are 1 time use only.
I've had my LN drain plug for 2 years and at least 6 oil changea and never had an issue.
Do not tighten more. It won't make any difference. I have the LN magnetic drain plug (and spin on oil filter adapter). I always use a new washer.
But
, if I install it with just the drain plug and new washer, it leaks. Not much, but it weeps oil. Don't know why. So when I change the oil, I use a tiny bit of permatex ultra black gasket maker between the washer and drain plug, and drain plug and sump and then it doesn't weep oil. When I say tiny, I mean tiny! Just enough to seal it. That works for me and no weeping. 99 stock engine, original oil pan, 143K miles.
I have done it both ways multiple times. No gasket maker it weeps oil. Gasket maker it does not. Don't know why but it works.
I had this issue for the first time (since early 2014) on my 991 this past fall. To make a long story short, the
Gold Level 918 Porsche Technician
at my dealership puts a small O-ring to hold-in/lock-in the crush washer against the L&N Billet Magnetic Drain Plug. I mention this, because you may like this solution, too. GL.
In preparing for our first oil change read reviews of oil drain plugs. Wanted magnetic but only one found was LN and some reviews said leaks, maybe included washer too hard didn't want to take chance. OEM reviews some said strips, so ordered genuine Porsche.
Good alternative solutions here leading up to my first oil change with LN magnetic drain plug as well. Too bad there's no way to test out the plug beforehand but at least I'll have some remedies on tap in case it does. Thanks guys!
Don't get me wrong...I love the LN magnetic oil plug and that layer of protection. Just that I have in the past observed the weeping and streaking on the oil pan sump plate. I use the permatex gasket sealer because that is what it is made for. I always felt "bad" about trying to give the drain plug an extra tweak. Mostly it seemed that it just did not work. Now I don't have to worry at all about the torque. It just seals up and that is it. I could probably get away with 10 ft lbs of torque because it just works. A little dab will do ya....
I see big differences with the root of the threads in some of the sump plates, as well as how flat they are at the sealing surface. The stock drain plugs are cheaply made, and they are not anodized. This makes them more compliant to irregularities in the sump plate than the very rigid, and strong LN plug, which is anodized. The stock plugs are so soft, that they will easily strip internally, on their hex, as an indicator of their quality.
In lots of cases we have to spot face the sump plate to solve leaks when I offered the IMS Guardian, which was also a high quality plug that could see the same effects of the variability in sump plates.
Loctite 565 solved those issues, as a band aid, but the root of the issue is the variability in the threads, and sealing surface of the stock sump plate. This is an issue that never occurred to engines with super early sump plates, which were machined with tighter fitting threads, and a totally flat sealing surface.
What you are seeing is a scenario where the plug seems to be the logical issue "because it never happened with the stock plug", but in reality the better quality plug is actually showing the underlying condition that the stock plug was making up for.
When we take the time to spot face the sump plate, making the surface totally flat, the issues tho away... Of course, the sealing washer also can make a difference in this as well. These things are true with any engine, I just fought this with my 1942 Half- track.
