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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHow long do ignition coils/spark plugs last?
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Check manually
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I think the garage I went to didn't have a PST2 & checked manually.
Leading evidence: 'Check manually' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check manually' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Once the plugs and cracked coil were replaced, the car ran more smoothly.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Once the plugs and cracked coil were replaced, the car ran more smoothly.
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Suggestion
The reason Porsche recommended no because the anti seize at the time was not conductive so it may hinder current flow.
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Hi all,
My C4Cab started sputtering yesterday and the engine light came on. I took it to my local garage and they determined it to be the ignition coils & spark plugs. My car is a '01 (of which I owned it only since '04) and it's clocked just over 73,000 km.
I've opted to go for Design911uk's Ace branded ignition coils & Beru spark plugs.
The questions I have are :-
1) how long before ignition coils & spark plugs give in? Is 73K km a decent life out of it?
2) Any opinions of the Ace branded ignition coils?
3) I just ordered the two aforementioned items. Do I need anything else? O-rings, etc?
TIA
Porsche suggests plug changes at 30k miles, don't think they have a coli pack recommendation. My C2 1999 has the o rings and tubes, not sure if your '01 does or not.
73,000 miles on plugs...time to change them. The coil packs last as long as they last. I have a 99 C2 with 130,000+ miles on original coil packs. I change the plugs and coil pack o-rings at 30,000 mile intervals. Mostly coil packs die from heat cracking. It is possible you only need to replace one. A quick OBDII diagnostic should at least give an error code for which specific bank and cylinder. Autozone will do that for free.
Cheers for the responses. Just to clarify it was 73,000km. But seems that's more than the 30,000 miles (48,000 km) so it looks like I've gotten a good life out of them.
I think the garage I went to didn't have a PST2 & checked manually. They're recommending changing all ignition coils & spark plugs so I've ordered from design911uk.
As the garage didn't mention about the o-rings I didn't order those.
It's a function of the ground electrode material. Some materials last longer (though give a somewhat weaker spark), like the 100k mile or 'lifetime' plugs you mention. Performance cars tend to have plugs whose ground electrode(s) degrade more quickly.
To the OP, I changed my plugs at 96k kilometers and two of the six coil packs were cracked then. Changing them made a noticeable improvement in smoothness, though I wasn't getting any error codes.
996 mark 1 cars (up to 2001) have plastic tubes that keep oil in the valve train where it belongs, and off the spark plugs. When they fail, you'll usually see oil seeping down from the spark plug holes on the valve cover. Changing the tubes and their o-rings is quite easy while you're doing spark plugs on the early cars.
I changed mine at around 82k miles. Here's a new vs. old comparison
In case a legend is needed, left is new, right is old.
One of my coils was cracked and this manifested itself through a CEL on that particular cylinder when the car had just been washed. Once the plugs and cracked coil were replaced, the car ran more smoothly.
Hi all, thx to all the advice. I've changed the spark plugs & ignition coils & it's running ridiculously smoothly. Much smoother than even before the engine light came on & before the engine started sputtering.
It makes me wonder that by the time I had the engine error light on how many of my sparkplugs were misfiring & if I was having problems before but not take notice of it. I.e. If only owe sparkplug was misfiring, would it sputter badly & would the engine error light come on?
Beru(Porsche coil supplier) for coils
NGK(Preferred) but Bosch will work too for spark plugs
If mk1 car then Porsche OEM Spark plug tubes along with OEM O-Rings while you're at it
Ah, thanks.......dealer is offering the coils for about $70 each. Looking around, seems like a good price.
My car is a 2003 so it's probably NOT a Mk1?
When my dodgy Porsche orig parts were pulled out for replacement, it seems the sparkplugs and ignition coils were Beru anyway. So it seems there's nothing special about original Porsche parts. What's scary is that the price was almost 3x more. I paid something like $230 for all my parts from Design911 (ex delivery), and the local workshop would have charged me $700 for parts but original Porsche components.
One of my coal packs failed at about 90,000km. When I replaced them the others were also heavily cracked. This is for a summer only DD. I replaced them with Bosch plugs and coils from ECS Tuning since they sell them as a kit.
I thought my car was running really good until I decided to change ONLY plugs and sleeves & o rings as part of my 60000 mile DIY service on my 99 job. The difference in 'pick up' response afterwards was unbelievable. The same coils are on the car from new. I checked them out and they all looked good with no cracks. Even the plugs didn't look that worn but as I say the difference in performance was chalk and cheese. When I need 6 ignition coils for mine I will get them here for about $30 EACH.
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1...SiaRoC_93w_wcB
They'll last 100k miles on a Porsche too, or close to it. Porsche's change interval is conservatively short, but this ensures the spark is always within tolerance for the best power levels. I wouldn't stress over extending the interval if you're running late on maintenance (or don't care if you get a slight drop in power as they wear out of tolerance), but you're still better off changing them at 30k.
At this point we see the divided question of using anti seize on the plug threads.......
Some people do and some people don't - personally I do but Porsche say's not to ........
Most anti seize in US are conductive (copper, aluminum, or nickel) so it's ok to just use a little dab. The reason Porsche recommended no because the anti seize at the time was not conductive so it may hinder current flow.
The coil packs are good until they are not, as stated. The problem with letting the plugs sit in there for too long is they start to corrode and become a major b8(&^ to get out. I do around 7 years regardless of mileage. I always stick to genuine coil packs and plugs. I have wasted far too much time chasing gremlins in cars that have always come back to non oem plugs and packs.
I Just replaced my coils, the car has been driven 137000 kms and all coils were overdue for change. One had failed, all were cracked, rusted and prone to total failure. The previous owner should have changed then I think. So definatly change them before I did.
Anti-seize with alum. has been around since Moses was a boy.
Anti-seize is not recommended for plugs for two reasons.
One reason is the stuff creates a gap between the plug and head threads. From the stresses the plug will move and this forces the anti-seize out. The plug can become loose.
Additionally this leaves room for the pressure in the cylinder to force combustion gases into this space. This leads to corrosion. Even with no anti-seize this happens. Look at pictures of old plugs. The threads are discolored from the tip upwards. (This highlights why plugs need to be changed on time if not miles.)
The other problem is the anti-seize as it works its way out of the threads can foul the 02 sensors.
Best to use the right plugs which come with a special surface treatment/coating which acts as a dry lubricant and yet ensures good thread contact with no gaps. This results in the best heat transfer from the plug to the head. Additionally the plug stays tight in the head and the threads are exposed to less corrosion. But the plugs still should be changed when due on miles or time.
I'm well aware of the fact that almost all plugs for our cars are nickel plated so anti seize is not really necessary, in theory at least. My comment was based on my personal experience and from other experts/shops that wrench on these cars everyday. Having said that, I don't have problems when not using anti seize yet. However, if you worry that your plugs may seize, a small dab won't hurt and give you a peace of mind.
We can debate forever and you won't find a definitive proof. For topics like that, I go by proved experience.
Your O2 sensor comment is interesting as most O2 sensors come with anti seize applied from the factory.
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