Front brake retainer pin stuck

Hi RL, Trying to install a set of cool carbons on my c4s after my PSM roasted my OEMs at Lime Rock last weekend. Job seems pretty straight forward but on of the pins that holds the spring clip (front left if interested) is stuck. Like really stuck. PB blaster, a punch and a 2lb sledge did nothing. Not really enough room to get a wire brush in there either. Has anyone ever used a die press to take these out? It's either that or replace 3/4 and let the stealership take a shot at breaking my front left to get them on. Anyone else run into this? I have 84k on what looks like the OEM pins and 10 of my own DE days. Best,

Going to ask some dumb questions.... Have you ever replaced your pads before? Did you remove the little keeper clasp that holds the pin in place? Are you applying pressure (pushing in) to the "I" shaped retainer / spring clip when trying to get the pin out? What side are you trying to get the pin out? Outside or inside of caliper?

Personally I have not replaced them, I got a bunch of work done last year (clutch IMS etc) from a local race-spec shop so this is my first year working on the car. Yes putting pressure on the spring clip, which does move easily but has a lot of sticky brake dust (or 'crud' I think is the scientific term) hense the copious amounts of PB blaster. Yes knocking the retaining pin from outside to inside (same as 3 other corners which successfully came out) and yes the cotter pin has been removed. The other 3 came out not with a little force but fairly easy, no idea what's going on with the front left... Going to replace all 4 pins so open to ideas.

Hi Oliver, Have you tried to knock the pin out the other way? Inside to outside? Could have been improperly installed in the past. Miles

Can you get a small 'pipe type wrench' 'mole grip' onto the shaft of the actual pin and turn it a quarter turn to break the self made seal which it seems to have formed.? The only other way I can think of is:- You have to push in the larger spring type clip which hold the brake pads in place to release any hold that it MAY have on the pin shaft. It should then tap out from the back as the pin goes in from the outside of the caliper. Other than that I can't think of anything else for you to do to assist.

Lock some vise-grips on the pin and rotate it back and forth to loosen it. Take one of the other old pins and drive out the pin. You can remove the whole caliper with the brake shoes still in if it would make leverage a bit easier. Make sure you have a toolbox or support box handy so you can set the caliper on it without undoing the brake hose.

Ollie.....sounds like you are doing all the right steps. I'm with Joe get a vise grips to try to bust it loose. Also try a little brake cleaner.......I would stay away from the pblaster. I use a punch with hammer to push the pins through the caliper. Once you do get them out put the pin into a drill motor and use sand paper to get the carbon off. Its simple when the pin is spinning. And btw...The pin can only be removed in one direction. The pin changes diameter on one end and bottoms out inside the caliper. Also the pins for the front vs the rear are different lengths. As me how I know Good Luck!

Thanks guys, I tried to get vice grips in there but the size I could fit in between the pads and caliper weren't large enough to get the torque needed to turn the pin. Maybe have to look into larger grips that maintain a smaller jaw. PB, brakeleen, I think some wd40, oil laying around from a recent change, I'm trying everything shy of drilling which, if I'm honest, I'd prefer to avoid. It looks to be in the correct way based on the other 3 pins that came out but I did tap the inner end a few times to see if that would loosen the pin at all - no luck! No one has seen a hand sized press on these? Or any other random idea? Have pads, new pins, and rear rotors coming Thursday for what I'll call a "fun weekend in the garage" (or bashing my head against the wall looking at my front left brake assembly. Thanks again,

Don't drill! The pin is just stuck. Here's what to do - take a screwdriver and insert it in between the caliper and rotor. You are going to use some gentle force to back the pads away from the rotor and push the piston back into the caliper. Make sure you have the cap off the brake cylinder tank and if necessary use a turkey baster to remove some fluid. Then remove the two bolts from the caliper, draw the whole caliper away from the rotor, remove the pads from inside the caliper and that will give you plenty of room to lock some vise grips on the pin, rotate it several times and then use a punch get it out. Don't reuse the pins and lube new pins with some good quality high temp graphite grease when installing.

Freeze spray to shrink the pin ? Then try bang it out again .....

I'd do as DBJoe suggested and just remove the caliper. At least at that point you'll be able to see what's going on and be better able to solve the problem.

Spray with PB blaster. Grab the pin from the top with vice grips and twist. Then punch it out with another pin. Before you do this, buy a new pin to replace it with.

Well, this is going poorly. Removed caliper, ground off the clips to hold the pads (have all new pads and hardware on stand by) so now I has just the caliper and the pin. Vice grips, PB blaster, nothing was working. AH HA! I'll cut the pin in half! One side is now out, one side (interior) is so unbelievably stuck I'm at a loss. This is the side that has no step in the pin, should be a smooth barrel but whatever combination of brake dust, heat, and rust, has very literally welded it in place. Banging, twisting, and every combination is not working. Even tried a 6" C-clamp but I have a fear of bending the caliper. Has not budged even a micro-inch. Heat? Cold? Any help???

I would pull the caliper and take it to a local machine shop. A pro machine shop not a local Mechanic repair place.

So reminiscent of my struggle with my exhaust this past winter. I have no words of wisdom but I empathize.

Would really prefer not to remove the caliper but yes had considered this... Any other thoughts? I can't be the only 996 in the world who has had this happen!!

At this point in time, I agree...time to pull the caliper from the car and get it to a machine shop. Pinch the brake hose with a clamp and remove the caliper. Plus having it off the car and on the bench I really believe that a long punch will drive that pin out. Keep in mind that if you break the caliper where the pin goes through you will need a new caliper at a cost of roughly $750+. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=602-00

I would buy a used caliper. No need for new. Chances are your caliper saw way too much heat and the seals are fried to a crisp. If you do pull the caliper off don't use a vice grip or clamp on the brake line because you will risk damage. Have a replacement caliper on hand and make the swap.

C4S/Turbo brake lines are steel, is there a best place to remove or pinch? I think removing the caliper is the only option now but want to avoid as much headache as possible (cars already been on blocks for 2 weekends and in dying!) so any top-tips here are appreciated!!

Big tip is to get a metric flared nut set. Regular style wrenches can strip the nut. Check some of the used parts places online and look for a used caliper ...because this happened by the amount of heat the caliper couldn't handle. Best to swap it out or atleast by the boots and seals for a rebuild.

I would cut the pin down as much as possible on both sides without hitting the caliper. Drill with a slightly smaller bit and if you still can't punch it out, either drill out the rest with the correct size bit, or get a nice C clamp and use a nut or metal spacer to push it out.

I'll post how I got this out later tonight as there were a number of tactics utilized but GABH worked in the end (Get A Bigger Hammer). Anyway I have the cool carbons set to go in but i looks on the front they won't fit with the Dampers still in place, do we keep the dampers on when replacing with non-OEM (in this case, CoolCarbon) brake pads? Thanks again for all the suggestions boys, she'll be back on the road in no time!

You Tube

Quotes source post: 11613418

Be VERY careful with the Caliper mounting bolts and reinstallation of the calipers. Use correct torque and new bolts. I accidently cross-threaded one of the caliper bolts as I did not clean out the upright threads and it cost $1100 for the Aluminum upright that is on the C4s/Turbo. I was lucky that there was ONE in Atlanta and the local dealer had to Fedex it otherwise I'd be up the creek until another one came in from Germany. The C2 upright is steel so it's MUCH cheaper. No such luck w/ Turbo/C4s uprights. No, you don't need the anti-squeal retaining pads. I tossed mine.

Take the caliper to someone w/ a set of torches --apply gradual heat & it should tap out . Hang on to the caliper portion w/ a soaking wet towel while heating so no seals are damaged. It's possible someone put some aggressive Loctite in a sloppy fit which the heat will solidify & as well expand the bore if no Loctite . Bob 01 C4 31 Ford cp chp & ch, 302/350 40 ******, 302/350, IFS 38 Ford cp, 327/350, IFS 57 Belair 62 356B --long ago