Bore scoring - images vs reality

I took some images from the sump around year ago as I was suspecting a bore scoring case. Now as part of my head cleaning process I take a look at cylinder (#6) and see the difference. First some beauty shots from the sump: Then the reality: There's obviously a initial scoring happening but based on Jake's scale I would say that's probably stage 1 or or... I can't feel with my finger nail anything there as it slides over that area smoothly. Based on those old images one could assume that there's real scratches there but obviously the situation is not that bad. Of course there's carbon and a bit of a an oil there as you would expect. Note. I did have a quite severe case of faulty AOS which pushed oil to intakes, smoke etc. Could that explain at least partly that oil and carbon there? Which in turn could cause that surface scoring there when those pieces of carbon are stuck between piston wall?

So if you had only scoped from the top you would never have seen the scoring occurring below the piston?

Sooo...what do the cylinders really look like below the pistons when at TDC? If they look like the top part then you have something janky with your camera or the light. Because your pics from below look horrible!

Yeah calling that a "Stage 1" or "mild" seems a bit like denial. That seems pretty scored already. Are you getting piston slap or any type of knock? Either way, that thing needs new sleeves.

How many miles? 3.4 or 3.6?

The difference in scoring between the photos taken from the bottom and those taken from the top is quite drastic. Not saying not the case here but seems odd that the scoring looks so deep in the first photos and there is barely anything from the top. With such advanced scoring you should see more from the top. I wouldn't even call that scoring. Please post photos once you have the case split and pistons out! Would love to see it!

Interesting. Did you take the top pictures with the same camera and settings as the bottom side? I have microscopes in my lab that can make things look completely different by changing the lighting & filters. Just a polarizer might bring out surface finish differences. Agreed with plpete84, it'll be great to see follow up pics.

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About 75k miles (about 115k km) My initial plan was only to fix cam deviation (-5.5 degrees) and clean the heads but after seeing that I guess I need to split the case and check the cylinders and pistons. So I'll post photos after I have progressed that far.... I used my Teslong NTS500 endoscope to take those photos from the sump. That photo from top was taken with iPhone. I had some knocking but I couldn't reliable pinpoint the location. I used stethoscope to listen and initially it was like coming from cyl #6. At some point it was like coming from between #4 and #5 and more like from the valve area but not at all from #6. I suspected cats as well and after changing exhaust manifold gasket (old one one rusted) that kind of changed the situation. Also had some smoke from bank 2 but that was totally gone this spring after I moved car a few times. So I have had these weird symptoms that come and go... Those first ones are from through the sump / bottom. Only that last photo is from top. Not sure yet - I guess I need to split the case and see - unless I start experimenting with endoscope but since the engine is at this stage I think I could see those for real. I guess the camera colorization plays some tricks on those first pictures.

I don't see any cross-hatch honing marks on that cylinder (6 ?) wall so I am guessing that the scoring is deep enough to take out the honing. Coupled that with smoke from bank 2, and some noise, and now that you have it disassembled to the block, it's time to fix it.

On the "Reality" picture, show us the entire circumference of the #6 bore.

Ok, finally - reality hit the face.... Bore... #4 Piston #4 front: Piston #4 back: Piston #5 front: Piston #5 back: Piston #6 front: Piston #6 back:

There's your smoke and mystery knocking culprit. Been there. Done that. My #6 looked similar. Only more scoring towards the top of the cylinder so plainly visible from above. Looks like you, hopefully, caught it before it impacted much of the "reusables".

@p9c, was your knocking all the time, only when hot or cold, or startup?

If I remember correctly only when hot. At least that knocking was not so evident when cold - focused more on the smoke when cold because I initially had that AOS issue so that kind of caught my attention. What would be my options - if any - if I want to save some time (read: save money until I can afford to send it to Jake). Could I somehow get rid of that scoring on the bottom part, get one single new piston and drive this at least randomly for a year or so - this is not my daily driver so I it's not that important. I can afford to spend some money now to put it back together. Also I could use this as a "how to build an engine" - training exercise before I have that fixed engine at my hands.

When you heard the knock and revved the car, did the knocking advance with the RPMs, or go away? Reason I ask is because I have a slightly wonky variocam actuator on bank 2 (it's either the actuator or solenoid) and sometimes it gets stuck in the 'active' position at idle, causing a slight knock. I haven't scoped the cylinders, never any smoke at startup, no buildup on driverside exhaust tailpipe, no oil consumption, nothin... I can also tell you that the knock goes away as soon as I give it some gas - it only appears if the car is warmed up, comes to a stop, and sits there for roughly 10 seconds - like if you were to pull into the garage and let it sit for a minute or so. I guess I'm just trying to find a definitive way to diagnose bore scoring without having to scope the cylinders. These motors make funny noises, but I would imagine one of the characteristics of true bore scoring would be a consistent knock throughout the RPM range, until you get high enough in the RPM range and the motor/noise drowns it out.

I am not aware of any "definitive way" to diagnose scoring without some type of look in the cylinders. As I said mine got bad enough it was easy to see from the spark plug hole with a boroscope. I would not recommend waiting that long. My scoring progressed through numerous stages of audible effects. At some times they were similar to what you describe above. However I was in deep denial by that time so I was trying to ignore the impending problem. Not every knock is scoring, but better safe to have a look than wait and be sorry... Record an audio and post here for comments.

What other issues did you have aside from the audibles?

Any knock noise is not good. I hate to tell you, but scoping in the only way to know for sure.

I know - but if you think of what bore scoring is - this idea that the piston skirt is hitting the side of the cylinder wall - you should hear it throughout the RPM range, much like this video here: You Tube And this one for the smoke: You Tube I've watched all of Raby's videos - I can buy into the design flaw, specifically for bank 2. I can buy into the cold weather theory / cars being affected that are Canadian or northern parts of the U.S., but my BMW background continues to tell me that Germans are still the best mechanical engineers the world has to offer and something like a design flaw that will lead to "guaranteed bore scoring" - which is essentially what Raby says - simply does not sit right with me. Maybe I'm wrong - maybe post-fire 996's really just aren't built that well and the early ones are the ones to get (and to Jake's credit, he has said this before). I mean either way I would want to scope the cylinders myself. I wouldn't trust a shop to do it unless they invite me back and do it with them. Imagine owning a shop, showing a paranoid 996 owner images of "their" scored cylinders only to charge them $10K on a rebuild on a motor that never had bore scoring to begin with, but they fix the knock because it was something else - like a stuck variocam actuator, etc... these guys are laughing all the way to the bank. If you have no other symptoms aside from an audible knock (especially if just at idle), I would argue it is almost definitely something else, or you are in very, very early stages and probably have another 25-50K miles of driving pleasure before you have to do anything about it. And yes, I'll scope mine eventually!

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Curious about the second part, is this a 3.4L or 3.6L? Has seemed more prevalent with the 3.6L when the cylinder liners were changed.

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Raby explains the equation did change from the Mk1 to Mk2 cars. My personal opinion is when Porsche moved from Ferrostan to Ferroprint, the problem got worse. Just my 2 cents. I try to refrain from using the word "inevitable" when referring to cylinder bore scoring on the Carrera M96/M97 engines, but I can say without a shadow of a doubt it's highly probable. However, using Raby's advice, you can mitigate the problem. This problem really hurts the Porsche experience and unfortunately when it get this bad, there is no easy solution aside for a full rebuild. Ignoring it will only add collateral damage and a most costly repair bill IMHO.

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Each to their own. Good luck. I hope it is something else. Post the noise. I, for one, would like to hear what you are hearing.

For sure - at the end of the day bore scoping is the final judge. I'm just trying to understand why these cars do this outside of what Raby has mentioned (post-fire linings responding differently to cold weather, simple lack of oil changes / improper intervals, etc...). Or maybe it has everything to do with what Raby has already uncovered. I honestly have no idea what I'm talking about, just trying to use some logic. Edit - here's a good example... Actually the best one I can think of at the moment. The BMW e36 "gurus" will tell you that the throttle body boot will almost always tear at some point. Why? "Because it's designed that way." ... The reason the boot tears is because people stick a K&N filter on the end of it and the thing literally just hangs there with no support from the stock airbox. Either that, or when people are working on the car, they're bending the boot aggressively - whatever, you get my point. Sort of like the same thing with the oil fill tube on our cars. Maybe it does just crack over continual heat cycles, but I would put money on it having to do with removing the stock airbox to work on things, consequently bending it different ways in the process and over time, of course it develops cracks. Maybe bad examples.

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Ah, my mistake - that scoring is actually on #4 and not on #6. Got a bit lost the way that is oriented as #6 scoring is so common. Added a couple of more pictures of bank 2 pistons. 3.4L

I missed your OP with the AOS explanation. I would think bits of carbon would cause initial scoring, but not continual once burned....? Or, if AOS is left unattended, continual carbon deposits would cause continual scoring.

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Can anyone elaborate on why #6 is most common? IIRC, Raby makes argument for bank 2 failure in general, not a specific cylinder.

Interesting that on those images "front" - or in real life "top" - side of the piston skirt is lighter in color.

It is. My guess is temp related. Do you run heat shields over your coilpacks? Cyl 6 is also closest to exhaust. Edit- nvm, you said this is cyl 4

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I have those unopened as the car was missing those but didn't install as I started this tear down project.

^ well that's interesting.

Germans deliver a superb and unique driving experience with their cars, but that comes with some downsides, including high maintenance costs and reliability issues. The Japanese have low maintenance costs and high reliability. Quality, Fast, Cheap. Pick two.

Something to be said for frequent oil changes and more cooling. It certainly didn't help if you followed the Porsche recommended 15k oil changes. Oil gets dirty and it's qualities diminish. Sure doesn't help to keep the bores smooth. I would go as far to say that if you changed your oil frequently and often, they could last for 250k miles as demonstrated by a couple of owners on RL. The problem isn't the 996, the problem is really the previous owners. This is why I harp on service records and getting the bores scoped before you buy the car.

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There are many contributing factors, but the ones that are specific to bank 2 are..... The thrust side of the cylinder on bank 2 is the upper side, and gets less oil due to gravity. The upper side of bank 2 is the last to receive coolant therefore runs hotter with a thinner oil film.. All the pistons have the same .5mm offset to reduce " snap load" at TDC overlap which the off-set compliments the thrust load on bank 1 but is detrimental to thrust load on bank 2 ( if bank 2 had the .5mm off-set to reduce the thrust load it would have helped) .. All aftermarket pistons have a zero offset which neither compliments or is detrimental to thrust load on either bank, but contributes to "snap load" on the rod...Ideally you would have two sets of pistons specific to each bank with the off-set to reduce the "snap load" AND to reduce the thrust load... but that would require two sets of pistons... Those are just the ones that are specific to bank 2, there are many more factors that contribute to a general propensity to score...

I just can't believe bore scoring is an inevitable problem (and I know many of you agree) ... Overall what I've learned here so far is that bore scoring could more than likely be avoided should the owner take proper care of the car, and do things right.My DIY knowledge is limited, but the one thing I've learned about German engineering is that if "it's" there, "it's" there for a reason. Like the heat shields over your coil packs. From a mechanical standpoint, the only language the Germans speak is reliability (at least it was in the 80's and 90's) - I am biased... Have had great experiences with BMWs - specifically their inline-6. Truly great cars and bulletproof motors from the e30/e36 era. They were terrible electricians, however...

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Unfortunately you are looking for a silver lining in a failure analysis , there is no silver lining in a failure analysis. You asked why the problem occurs more so on bank 2..the answer has no silver lining.. If the problem didn't exist, there would be no need for failure analysis... Whether you track the car or not doesn't effect "gravity".. Keeping the cooling system up to snuff doesn't change the fact that bank 2 is the last to receive coolant.. Piston off-sets are what they are from the factory and can only be changed during a rebuild.. None of the stuff you mentioned has any bearing on the causes I listed as contributors to bank 2 specifically..But they would be helpfull in the " many other factors that contribute to a general propensity to score".... But your on the right track, buy the best damn oil you can buy and change it often, never let the engine overheat, never let the fuel wash down the cylinders or run too rich, and you can avoid bore scoring...

It's interesting to me it can occur on only one side of the piston. I wonder if there's a oval shape where the piston can get shoved to one side. One wouldn't expect just freely touching/contact between the skirt and the cylinder wall would lead to gouging.

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As Skip mentioned, it's the thrust side of the piston on Bank#2. If you watch the movement of the pistons in slow motion travel from TDC to BDC, it would make sense. Cylinders #5 and #6 are the worst bore scoring offenders with the M9X engine. #6 being the undisputed champion.

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Study piston/cylinder thrust load and you will understand.....

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This��.don�t let your 996 sit and idle at start up. AND replace those 20+ year old fuel injectors with NEW (not rebuilt) OEM Porsche injectors.

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Is the thrust side scoring always worse in these cases?

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If the scoring is on one side, then " thrust load" is the "straw that broke the Camels back".. If the scoring on on "both sides" then "piston swelling" (due to the piston expanding too much/too fast caused by overheating or not allowing proper warm up time before placing high loads on the engine) is the "straw that broke the Camels back".... Those are two different failure analysis scenarios........ But as on the m96 the scoring is usually on the bank 2 thrust side, meaning after you factor in all the other contributors, the thrust load is the straw that breaks the Camels back....but if you take away a big handfull of straw off the Camels back, it won't break due to thrust loads

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Ok, Quick question for those more Porsche 996 knowledgeable than me, whats "the best damn oil you can buy"...? got some cases of full syn oils,,, 0-40 Mobil 1, 5-50 truck mobil1, some track only mobil1racing 0-50, all have high levels of zinc and phosphorus... are they ok to run here in South Florida in my 30,000mile 2001 996 Carrera...? Will 1 of them stave off bore score..? Maybe a little **** but usually change my full syn oils at 3000 or less miles and fill my oil filters when possible. This universal bore destruction is getting me nervous. Thought it was the 3.6 engines, but here we got a 3.4 with it...? My 3.4 seems to run great. No knocks, a little loud for the first second or 2 on cold starts. No oil used in the last 1300miles I've owned it. Been slowly getting things done. Lots of stuff on a 21 year old car to freshen up. Got a new oil fed ims installed, regretfully didn't do the aos when the tranny was out, but did do a clutch and rms. Probably will do your uaos when I get the time this winter. Thanks for all the great info you and our forum members supply....

My 3.4 needed a rebuild at 65k miles due to a failed (replacement) IMS bearing. The bores were still fine, with just cylinder #6 showing a thin line that you couldn�t feel at all. I believe the 3.6 and 3.8 (997) are much more prone to bore scoring. No excessive idling, no overheating, gentle warm up, are all good precautions. On the other hand, I can�t bring myself to change the oil more than once a year and I�m sure my Indy would laugh when I would suggest it.

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I've owned my 2002 C2 with 59k miles for 20 years and never once heard about bore scoring until I joined RL almost 3 years ago. But i did worry about the imsb, aos, oil supply and controlling oil/water temps because I tracked my car over a 14 year period from 2004 to 2018 without any issues or problems. But I took very good care of the car by over servicing it, replacing parts early, using better parts where available, and changing the oil on average every 600 miles or so. Before winter, after winter, and changing the oil after every track day. To pit it simply, I was never on the track or street without fresh oil. In answer to your question, I use Miller's Nanotech 5w40. That's what my shop uses, which is popular on the PCA club racing circuit. Never had any indication of bore scoring but as a precaution, i started testing the oil over a year ago to see what was in there. Nothing by the way. But I am about to test it again and will going forward. I also just had my indy drop the sump and check for bits, nothing again, as well as scope the bores from the sump and spark plug holes. Nothing again. Sure, i replace my ignition coils and Maf every 5 years. Fuel injectors every 10, but I may go to every 5. I also have run a 2 quart deep sump forever, and the motorsports aos but have since replaced it with the uaos track version which allows me to run 3 quarts of extra oil in total. So i am flush with plenty of clean high quality oil which helps with lubrication and cooling on the track. I just replaced my LN imsb Retro for a second time as well. It was in perfect shape. But the only thing that I can think of as to why my bores are in such good shape is that I use great oil, run a couple of extra quarts of oil and change it many times a year. Certainly helps to run relatively new ignition coils, maf and fuel injectors as well. Your guess is as good as mine. If you are worried, begin an oil testing program to measure it once a year and drop your sump, look for bits and scope your bores. If all good, then just run good oil and keep changing it and testing it. If something is not right, begin a program to slow down the scoring. There are plenty of things you can do. The reality is that every engine is a piece of metal and will eventually need a rebuild. I plan on doing one over the next few years, but am looking to prolong my engine life for as long as possible. Oil, oil, oil.....

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One data point about oil analysis: As you can see in one of my threads with bore scoping pictures of my engine, you can see that I�ve got the early stage visuals. I don�t have any of the symptoms yet though: No smoke on startup or in general, no knocking or pinging, no odd sounds, smooth running engine. On top of that, I�ve put over 4000 miles on the car since I bought it at 77000 miles. I�ve done an analysis twice on the oil and three oil changes in total since then. None of my oil analyses showed anything concerning in the numbers, despite the visual confirmation of the bore scoping. Also nothing to be found in the filter or sump. So. Not sure what really constitutes a bore scoring that shows up in oil analysis. Either way, I�m anxiously waiting for the right moment for the rebuild. however, as we�ve seen in the forum, lots of new products and stuff coming from LN & Raby partnership, so definitely rather a good moment to hold off for a little more than dive in.

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Agree, is my guess too.... Interesting post, never heard of Miller's Nanotech, did a quick search and seems like a high quality oil for sure... Any idea what zinc and phosphorus levels are in the Millers Nanotech..? Oil is the life blood of engines, a clean slippery quality film lubing the piston to wall can't hurt longevity. If the time comes, pretty handy with my bore gauge and a micrometer. Bore score would just give me the excuse to tear it down and turn it into a 3.6-4.0. Had Millennium Tech and US Chrome do lots of great work for me in the past. And I love taking my time building precision balanced engines. That being said, rather not have to dig deep in my 3.4, as its running really good, no smoke, no knocks, no piston slap, no chain noise, no oil usage. It just purrs along right up to redline, never much over the center of the '0' of the 180� mark... Had the pan off before doing the ims bearing upgrade, looked like a 30,000 mile well taken care of engine. Clean as a whistle, no sludge,varnish, debris. Got to luv quality synthetic oils.... jmo

Looks like you are in good shape with your engine. Don't know off hand the content specs of Miller's. It has been described to me as the UK version of Driven. Can't say it was my decision to use, it was my indys call. But it seems to have worked well in the car.

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What he said. And BTW, this is definitely not just a Porsche problem. You'd think that because it's so talked about. Do a quick search and about 95% results are for Porsche but this happens with the proverbial dependable cars like Toyota. Camrys are notorious for burning oil. Scoring happens on those too! It just manifests itself differently and is usually caused by excessive carbon buildup on the rings causing them to stick and go to town on the cylinder bores. Reason? No different than Porsche. Following recommended oil change intervals of 10-15k miles. The biggest difference is the cost of a rebuild, of course.

Not to make this an oil thread, but I use Liqui Molly 5w-40 Leichtlauf High Tech. Used M1 0w-40 when I first bought the car for one oil change. I'm considering buying LM's hydraulic lifter additive and their MoS2 anti-friction treatment as I am coming up on a change in the next 1K miles or so. If any of you are firmly against those additives please let me know. I am not a proponent of additives in general but this M96 has me a bit confused from time to time. I also want to see if I can get my variocam on bank 2 cleaned out with a different oil, or some type of additive like the one mentioned above. I have read stories of guys doing this and p1539 going away. FCP also has the DT-40 and I buy all parts from them for their guarantee policy. If I make the switch to DT-40 with them it would be free oil changes with DT-40 from then on out as long as they still carry it.

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Pete makes a key point. Folks don't buy a 20byear old Toyota Camry looking to keep it running for another 20 years. Instead, 20 year old Camrys have already been crushed and melted so no one is discussing bore scoring or other issues. Nor does anyone care. The 996 is a classic Porsche that doesn't get crushed and melted as it gets older. Instead, we discuss the issues and how to keep it running for decades forward. So it seems substantially worse than reality.

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LMAO

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If you make the switch to DT40 I don't think any additives are needed and with that FCP policy it's a no brainer. If you do that, I'd love some feedback on what the process looked like for you. The typically ask that you ship the old part back so curious what that looks like for oil. I usually drop mine off at Autozone for free recycling. I'm testing some snake oil stuff so hope to have some info on additives by the end of the year. If you're interested in some specifics on oil additives and oil details, this is a great resource: https://www.speediagnostix.com/new-oil-analysis

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I use FCP Euro for their DT 40 oil. It is great. Cost me about $25 a oil change. The $25 is the cost to ship the oil back to them in the DT40 bottles. I wrap them in a plastic bag then box them up. . I get my credit within a few days of them getting the old oil. Best deal going. Joey

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FCP is awesome. Highly recommend. Their guarantee policy is bar none the best in the business - still don't understand how they make money off of that over time.

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I couldn't even get Canada Post to accept my sample for mailing to Blackstone...the same location that shipped my last sample.

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agreed. I actually saved an email chain asking them about consumables like oil, brakes, clutches, etc. 100% return policy...It boggles the mind that this is true.

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That's the crazy part. It is, 100%, true. Imagine if they sold tires! edit- obviously they wouldn't be able to do that... but that's almost the feeling I get when I'm paying nothing aside from shipping for brakes, oil, coolant, etc. but shh... we need to keep this on the down-low.... it is one of those too good to be true things, yet true nonetheless.

Just a small vent on the 996 and I guess a lot of porsche's engines.... I get why manufacturers have moved to engine blocks as disposable items (casting/forging liners directly with the block) to save money but man its annoying to deal with down the road, if the 996 had removeable liners (AL with coating) it would have been much easier to deal with these problems by swapping out the liners with nicasil or other platings. As it is porsche is on the hook to make 996 blocks forever right? which is not practical, at some point the bean counters will stop that and what happens then? the only option will be machining and adding liners from the aftermarket

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This has been a thing for quite some time.

Here's interesting view - this is taken from below and bank 1. Here we can see the virgin part of the cylinder and then the wear part. I wonder what is that narrow section in the middle.

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etching of the surface for the rings to ride in? The bore surface is a matrix of aluminum with particles of harder material, the aluminum is probably etched away to allow the hard surface to interface with the rings, near the bottom of the bore there is no ring touching so no need to etch

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Lots of engines have liners from the factory, no reason porsche couldn't do the same thing and not make their block disposable

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Agreed, but the cost doesnt justify it to the bean counters at Porsche. For them 100k miles is plenty.

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The "top" part (in your picture) is the section that rings have never touched. The large polished section is where all three rings have touched. I can see two distinct sections in the small intermediate area. One (the smaller) has had only the oil control ring sliding over it. The other (larger) has had #2 compression and the oil control rings sliding over it. I bet at the top there's a similar kind of pattern.

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That�s because they don�t understand �Transportation of Dangerous Goods� (TDG). Tell them it is a sample...don�t even mention � of what�. Volume is so small it is exempt from TDG anyway, but easier to not even get into that conversation. You are right, I don�t know how you could send used oil in bulk, other than via courier and it would likely cost more than the oil itself.

Stupid question but would the engine additive RESTORE help with this issue? It claims to fill in the scratches and pits in the motor as long as you do it each time you change the oil.

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You're right, that's a stupid question.

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Thanks ********!

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Happy to help a moron avoid self-inflicted ignorance anytime.

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Takes one to know one! :P)

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Dude, you don't know me from Adam's house cat. You made this RESTORE bed, now sleep in it.

Well that was unnecessary, stupid question or not. Answer it or stfu. PorscheC2S - I would steer clear of any products like that, at least on these engines. Because it's in oil it has a high probability of going and sticking to places that you don't want it to and creating more issues in the end. You're better off using an oil with high detergent package and changing it more often, like every 3k miles max.

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It's common sense, Pete... but hey, there's enough room on this ball for all three of us. Jump on!

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No. Wrong. You're thinking about "Stop Leak". Steve is talking about RESTORE. It doesn't work. That's why. It's been discussed to death for years. If you're suffering mechanical trama like advanced cylinder bore scoring, then the only cure for the problem is by rebuilding the engine with new sleeves. There is no easy fix or magic cure in the bottle. And, a "high detergent" oil will not do anything to help with this problem. If anything, an oil with high concentrations of ZDDP will help mitigate the problem, but it won't stop it all together. Nothing in the store will eliminate it once it starts.

Cool - thanks for answering the question

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Childish response. Grow the Fk up!

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Kiss my ***!

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LOL, just confirms my response. You should really go play over on FaceBook, you'll fit right in.

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You and your alt should skip back over to the 991 forum where skinny jeans and pumpkin spice latte are popular topics this month.

Just my two cents worth: I don't care how much silver, lead, copper and whatever else Restore alleges to have in their product it will not correct/mitigate bore scoring. It just won't. If you look closely at the pics posted in this thread of scored cylinders it is unimaginable to think any "snake oil" product fixing that condition. The scores are DEEP. Pistons and rings also become compromised. Be careful what you read on the internet as some is simply fantasy writing for pay to make a fake product look good. It's easy to pick out those articles because if it sounds to good to be true it isn't true. There have been some valid things suggested that can be done to help live with bore scoring. None of these suggestions included the use of "snake oil cure everything" products. To quote an old commercial: " That’s not how this works. That’s not how any of this works."

This latest discussion is a great example of why it is important to have a 997 Bore Scope Inspected PRIOR to buying. I'm not up on 996 engines these days but have owned several 996 C4S's years ago. Gimmicks like "Restore" products are bullsh:t and there is no other way to "repair" Bore Scoring other than a rebuild. (Or buy good used warrantied replacement engine) B3 having been a master mechanic/Porsche nut for 25 years gets his panties in a bind when he see's newbie comments. I get it. RL a great form of entertainment sometimes. Bottom line if you are shopping for a 997 best and smart to get a Bore Scope as well as PPI without fail. 3.8L S engine has much higher % of Bore Scoring than the 3.6L These days I consider 997 buyers who skip a Bore Scope Inspection a huge failure. Makes no sense. My 106K 997C4 that I purchased last year had an excellent Bore Scope Inspection with no scoring and clean cylinders. I did summersalts around the shop because 3 other 997 S cars I was shopping for all had bad scoring and cost me $1000 to find out ($350 per car for the Bore Scope Inspections) But $1000 still a deal when you think of the nasty bill you get when you have to rebuild

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996 same^^^

Quite frankly everyone should get their bores scoped to see what they got. Right after they get their annual physical.

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Starting at the age of 50? Or is it 45 now?

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Hah! Age 23 for the 996!

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I went to another location and just labelled it "Laboratory sample". They asked if it was over-the-counter or prescription medication. "It's not medication". Okay!