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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHEngine Temp Consistency and Expansion Tank
Leading reported evidence
Replace because i had a leak
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It was changed because I had a leak after a drive.
Leading evidence: 'Replace because i had a leak' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace because i had a leak' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If the pressure decreases further, replace the cap.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Since the expansion tank change, including running with the AC, hammering it etc.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Prior to the tank change, the gauge would read when warmed up just past the slash at 80.
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Suggestion
I've no idea re consistency of temps, but one thing that your pressure test reminded me of, is that with our old cooling systems, it's recommended to only pressure test to 10psi or thereabouts, or you might cause a rad blowout.
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I recently changed out the expansion tank with Porsche OEM. It was changed because I had a leak after a drive. It only ever leaked once. I pressurized the original tank to about 20 PSI and found one tiny little leak above the MAX line.
This past weekend was the first time I had the opportunity to take the car out for an extended drive. One of the the things that I noticed was the temperature gouge seemed to be much more consistent than previously. I have a Canadian (pic is not my car) car so temps are in Celsius. Prior to the tank change, the gauge would read when warmed up just past the slash at 80. Aggressive driving/traffic would cause the gauge to get to the "zero." Definitely would see the gauge sweep 6 or 7 mm.
Since the expansion tank change, including running with the AC, hammering it etc. the gauge would only move 2 or 3 mm, so significantly less.
This made me ponder if a symptom of a cracked expansion tank could be less consistent engine temps?
I only changed the expansion tank. Didn't remove coolant since it doesn't have 5000 km on it.
If this is true, might be helpful to "predicting" when the tank will blow.
Thoughts?
I've no idea re consistency of temps, but one thing that your pressure test reminded me of, is that with our old cooling systems, it's recommended to only pressure test to 10psi or thereabouts, or you might cause a rad blowout. Maybe it is twisted logic, and it's better to treat the system to spec in a garage than it is to bury ones head in the sand 🤪.
I found this nugget. According to which you're 20psi exceeds the spec:
For the coolant system the manual recommends 18.85 PSI.
For the cap:
1. The pressure relief valve opens at an excess pressure of approx. 20.3 PSI; the pressure then slowly decreases again, and the valve closes at 14.5 PSI. If the pressure decreases further, replace the cap.
2. If the test pressure of step 1 is maintained, test step 2. Apply excess pressure to the pressure relief valve of step 1 by pumping rapidly. The pressure relief valve of step 2 must open at an excess pressure of approx 26 PSI. If the valve does not open, replace the cap.
And this -
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...sure-test.html
I didn't pressure the cooling system. After having removed the old tank, I wanted to confirm that there was indeed a crack in the old tank since when I removed it, the crack was not obvious. So I applied pressure to the old tank to see if I could find the crack which I indeed did. I am just finding the temps vary less with the new tank. Everything else is the same.
Something else is causing your now more consistent cooling system temps.
Leaky tank/no leaky tank...pressure/no pressure in the cooling system, will not vary the coolant temps as long as the boiling point is not exceeded of either case...
leak/no leak only matters if the coolant capacity is lowered.
pressure/no pressure only matters if the coolant temp exceeds the boiling point...( pressure raises the boiling point 3 degrees for every PSI)
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