Rear Wheel Alignment affects

What are the effects of changing the camber and toe on the rear? I've finished refreshing the car's front and rear suspension, brakes, as well as dialing in the front alignment. I started with the rear, dialed that to factory specs, then the front, set that into factory specs, then tuned the front to what I feel like I like the best. In all, I've spent 7 hours on that Hunter Alignment Rack just on the front! What do changes in toe, camber do to the way the car pivots around its center axis, respond as it squats and rises, and the way it tracks? I'm just trying to avoid having to spend another 7 hours on the rack to figure this out. TIA

What adjustable links do u have in you car? On a stock system u only have 2 eccentric bolts in back and a toe link and slots on top of the shock tower. I cant understand how it would take 7 hrs with an alignment machine? It takese about 4 hrs to do string alignment on my car and all the links r adjustable. As far as how alignments work our cars r no different from any other car. Some google searches will get u some good info. Basically high camber 3-4* in front and back and 1-2mm toe out front and 1-2mm tow in back is a rough track alignment. This set up feels great on the track, track tires love it but on the street it can be darty and street tires will wear poorly.

No adjustable links. The 7 hours is including my learning curve on getting the car onto the machine, and learning how to use the machine. Next was figuring out how to do the adjustments to get the measurements I was looking for. It took me a while to realize that when you adjust it into spec, the suspension is under tension until you get it to settle back into equilibrium. I started out just driving the car off of the machine, test it out on the pavement, put it back on, set it back up to read and adjust, only to see that the settings that I was seeing initially were different after getting the suspension to settle. then I'd redo the adjustment to get it right. So much of the time was actually leaning how to do an accurate alignment on the car with the Hunter machine. My google searches gave me the same subjective results dealing with feel, like what you mentioned. I guess I should worded my question specifically to the geometry under dynamic conditions.

There are some other variables, like ride height as well. De Jeeper’s suggestions are pretty common for track use. I’m no expert, but have string aligned my cars a fair number of times. Toe in in the rear helps with stability in a straight line and under braking generally. Camber in the rear doesn’t have nearly the negative effect in day to day driving, but will wear tires. Too much or too little toe in rear will also rapidly wear tires on the street. Also remember the age of your suspension components, particularly toe arms, as the rubber bushings can move more as they age and throw numbers around dynamically.

JTT, I'm noticing that as well. I did switch out the suspension pieces as they are old. I started out at the center of the range of factory specs at both ends of the car. Next, i gradually dialed in more toe in (.01, .03, .05 degree) then more camber in the front (0, then .20 ) And leaving the rear at -1.0 camber and .20 toe. This took quite a while as I was experimenting. I think the front is good for me at a cross camber of -.2 degree and a total toe at .1 degree. Setting one side of the suspension changes the other side so it takes me a while. Now playing with the rear.. Thanks