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YOUR RESEARCHWhat would u do oil cooler edition?
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Replace /rebuilt the starter, as you did
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Now I wish I had replaced/rebuilt the starter, as you did, because the car is all back together and I'm getting that "starter hanging up" noise when I start the car.
Leading evidence: 'Replace /rebuilt the starter, as you did' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace /rebuilt the starter, as you did' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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A shop replaced the entire vacuum system & it ran great after that.
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The oil cooler tested good, changed it and the o-rings anyway, the 100 bucks was worth the peace of mind in eliminating a potential weakness in my rebuild.
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I take mine to a local radiator shop to have it pressure tested like any other radiater, $15.
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With my recent intermix experience, I tested the oil cooler using a YouTube video as guidance, sealed one side while pressurizing other then reversed sides and pressurized again.
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Replace /rebuilt the starter, as you did
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Now I wish I had replaced/rebuilt the starter, as you did, because the car is all back together and I'm getting that "starter hanging up" noise when I start the car.
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Suggestion
Oh another thing is the coolant cap on the back of the engine the gasket fails and you get a coolant leak in the RHS another cheap $30 part but a PITA to replace when the coolant is in it.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The oil cooler tested good, changed it and the o-rings anyway, the 100 bucks was worth the peace of mind in eliminating a potential weakness in my rebuild.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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So i figured i would pull most eveything off to clean and pm the hoses on my 200+k motor. This all started as a way to get to the aos. The alt has already been rebuilt and im gonna drop off the starterin monday. The current question is would u replace the oil cooler since i have easy access?
And the answer is: Yes! With my recent intermix experience, I tested the oil cooler using a YouTube video as guidance, sealed one side while pressurizing other then reversed sides and pressurized again. The oil cooler tested good, changed it and the o-rings anyway, the 100 bucks was worth the peace of mind in eliminating a potential weakness in my rebuild. Now I wish I had replaced/rebuilt the starter, as you did, because the car is all back together and I'm getting that "starter hanging up" noise when I start the car. Great! So, yeah, change the oil cooler and o-rings while you have easy access.
As in loose wire/connection, or degraded wire! I just wish I had taken the starter apart and refreshed it, lubricated the bearings and solenoid, emery clothed the armature contacts and maybe even put in some new brushes. Now I'm going to have to live with it for awhile until I get motivated during the summer. Let me know what you're thinking, thanks.
to be honest it has snowballed, but it really hasnt been that bad. Maybe im just used to working in tight places? Hardest bolt was the drivers side intake bolt toward the front of the car. I was able to pull the pass side intake with the ps pump and ac compressor mounted.
im gonna order a new cooler. I know there r very few reports of these things failing but there r aiso few 200k mile cars. I believe that this is the original unit.
only thing i wish i could replace is the coolant resi but being a mk1 its too much coin for something thats not broke.
Nope. Nor the plugs, coils or tubes. That might happen next time around. The car idles and runs great so those updates can wait. Ill look at the air/fuel mixes again after u get it back together. Between the bad aos and old plastic im sure i had some vacuum issues.
Do the cooler - worth it while you're there. Also the hose from the tank to the cooler too IMO that covers you.
I'd also do the coolant T piece and get the metal URO version and an oil filler neck as well if it's old it's probably brittle and waiting to break.
How much more of your money can we spend?
Oh im already into it for over a grand. All of it i consider maintenance due to age. I did install the new cooler and hose on sunday but im still waiting in my entire order from autoatlanta. Been close to 3 weeks now.
Btw, the overflow hose is a rediculios porsche price but it was over $20 cheaper through FCPeuro. I just bought their whole kit minus the bolts. Although i think one of the clamps is wrong. The worm drive clamp seems to be way too big for the connection at the cooler so i reused the original spring clamp.
At least my starter is ready for pick up today so one more piece of the puzzle is ready to go in.
The oil cooler is not a known issue for these cars. These type of coolers are very robust, I would leave it alone. If you really want maybe replace the O rings.
to late
. This is the reason i posted the question, but ultimately i figured that the few failures that r out there r about equal to the amount of 200+k miles cars out there. In my case its just maintenance due to age.
Its not super expensive I split mine at the track was the original with only 80kms on it. For $200 worth it IMO
O rings are a must as well.
Oh another thing is the coolant cap on the back of the engine the gasket fails and you get a coolant leak in the RHS another cheap $30 part but a PITA to replace when the coolant is in it.
Thx ill check mine for issues.
edit: i looked for that cap and could not find it. I see plug above it in the pic. If its behind the oil pump civer i deff cant get to it.
I didnt. The cooler was cheap enough that i just bought a new one.
Btw, i have that cooler 4 sale if anyone wants it for $100. Has less then 1k miles in it.
Thanks, but the reason I asked is because I'm trying to establish if it's the reason why I found oil in a coolant line. May need to be replaced preventatively anyway, but it would be good to get some answers to my symptom. Hopefully Weazer will share how he conducted the test effectively. My initial (rudimentary) attempts have not been very elegant. I could figure out a smart way eventually, but hopefully others share their method and we all save each other time and effort. Thanks!
De Jeeper, pretty cool we are doing the same jobs. Mine is AOS, secondary air injection as it was throwing a code, vacuum system, injectors, and plugs. I looked hard at the oil cooler. Like you said, it's right there.
I chose not to replace mine as I already am making a lot of changes. Partly because of money, but I also don't want to have too many things to trouble shoot when it goes back together.
The vacuum system is not that expensive & easy to replace. I used to drive a 72 280SE Mercedes Benz. A shop replaced the entire vacuum system & it ran great after that. So I'm pulling from that experience.
I plan on replacing my oil cooler the next time i ho deep. I think its a good thing you are replacing yours.
Its funny coz I took apart the alternator & cleaned it up. Lube & electrical. I'll do the starter next time.
All the best
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