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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
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YOUR RESEARCHInterior LED Lights
Leading reported evidence
Replace lights
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
For me, I went to a direct LED vendor, and I just replaced all the lights on my 2004 C4S coupe today.
Leading evidence: 'Replace lights' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend canbus versions' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
3) The site also recommended the CANBUS versions for some reason, which work, but I don't think they are necessary.
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Suggestion · Original poster
1) The parts recommended from Superbrightleds.com for the main overhead, frunk, and engine bay are just a millimeter longer than original.
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5 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T140027Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I replaced all of the interior, frunk, engine bay, and license plate incandescent bulbs with LEDs.
I couldn't find another clear thread on this, although ECS Tuning does have a thread with their solution and LED package.
For me, I went to a direct LED vendor, and I just replaced all the lights on my 2004 C4S coupe today. Parts were $34.50 before shipping and tax.
I went Warm White (3000K) on most, which is most like the incandescents (2700K). They're just a tiny bit little whiter, but I really like them. They look clean, but not too harsh.
For the Frunk and Engine Bay, I went a little hotter color temperature, Natural White (4300K). It's definitely whiter, but I like it for those spaces.
I also measured the power draw of the incandescents and the replacement LEDs. Total power draw, if they were all on, went from 60W down to 20W. Doesn't matter much, but I do have an Antigravity battery with a lower capacity than an AGM, so I guess the lower power draw is good. Also, I love collecting data.
Issues:
1) The parts recommended from Superbrightleds.com for the main overhead, frunk, and engine bay are just a millimeter longer than original. They fit since the electrodes have some flexibility to them.
2) I mistakenly ended up ordering the same bulbs for the license plates (44mm), but they are actually much shorter (37mm), and even Superbrightleds recommends something different. The electrodes can be compressed and the LED versions I used did fit. But I would definitely go a different route if I had to do it again.
3) The site also recommended the CANBUS versions for some reason, which work, but I don't think they are necessary.
Below I have a table of what I used, and what I would try if I did it again.
Old incandescent bulbs, with the replacement LED packages.
Table of part numbers and power draw per location.
Frunk. The 44mm replacement is slightly long, but the electrodes spring back, and it is still a very secure fit.
Natural White (4300K) frunk light.
Measuring current draw of LED. I did this for all of the lights.
My mistake! Wrong LED for the License Plate lights. Will probably replace again soon
