Need to roll the rear fenders... a little bit.

I'm stubborn... decided to stick with a beautiful set of Champion RG5's that were meant for a wide body (rear offset is 36). Daily driving is fine, no rubbing. When I push it hard and the road is bumpy, the rear tires rub very slightly. The front tries are are fine. Bought a fender roller and plan to tackle this job in a few weeks. With temp gun in hand to avoid paint bubbling. I appreciate your constructive input: I want to avoid rolling the fenders too much. Should I remove the rear struts to move the wheel through its travel path to best gauge how much clearance I need? Will the wheel travel its path without the strut in place? The PITA will be that I likely need the strut in place to operate the fender roller properly? I'm considering a set of H&R springs in the near future (the dampers are factory sport struts). Would like to entertain a more aggressive coilover (PSS9 or Ohlins R&T) but my wife drives the car occasionally and I don't want her to complain. ​​​​​​Your input is welcome. Thank you.

My advise is sell the wheels and get the right offset. Just rolliing the fenders will not help, u will probably need at least 2.5* of camber expecially if u lower the car. fyi, U can rent fender rollers if needed

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I have PSS9's on my car - if anything they ride better than the stock USA suspension on our lousy Massachusetts roads, even with my 19" wheels. BTW, PSS9's aren't available any longer, they now have PSS10's. Oh, I'm with him^^^ get wheels that fit, you will be happier in the long run.

I would never roll my own fenders, there's a guy about 50 miles from me who does them all the time for a decent price. I've heard that you can do it yourself, but that it takes some experience to do it well. That's not happening on MY cars. I also agree with above, find the correct fitting wheels.

As has been said above, but new wheels that fit. Once you lower the car the offset is too much for fender rolling . More than likely it will hit. it appears that the rim itself is sticking out 10mm or more at the top. It will need a lot of camber to make that wheel work in that arch.

as it has been said, replace the wheels with correct spacing. when I went to lowering progressive springs and struts the ride improved, i removed them and installed Feal coil-over system and the ride improve even better with the wife even noticing it also.

I think what they are saying is that ET 36 is very low. 45 is difficult on a narrow body. 40 very hard. One thing that is not being addressed is tire size and wheel width. Small tire could help. From here it looks like you'll rub but you say you have very little. Pulling a fender is a consideration but at some point it is smarter to reconsider. There are lots of great wheels out there. Negative camber can help. FWIW I had a recommended Porsche body guy roll my '72 RSR flares and he flat out cracked one. It was a complete fiasco that I live with to this day.

There is no way you can roll the fenders enough to fit wheels with a 35 offset. Years ago I had a set of wheels with a 42 offset on the rear. I rolled the fenders and the tires still rubbed. IF you try you will probably end up with cracked paint and they still wont fit. Do yourself a favor and get a set of wheels that fit the car.

I appreciate the dose of real world experience with this situation. Can you guys please tell me more about the Feal suspension setup? .....I'm a lifelong gear head & was surprised to have not heard of them until a few months ago?!?! ​​​​​​

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Only if you flat out promise not to roll your fenders !!! just kidding, I know nothing about the Feal coil-overs... if you want to know anything about KW V3's I'll play... Good Luck PS - Don't roll your fenders damnit!

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​​​​​Posted the wheels up for sale or trade today https://www.kijiji.ca/v-tires-rims/l...nt=app_android

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Bummer! But you'll be better off in the long run

I rolled my fenders From To Can�t tell from outside the car. Porsche metal is much thicker than what you would find on a Japanese car and more resilient.

I know you're not going to do it but using a heat gun helps with paint cracking on the ledge, you'll bubble the paint with the heat gun if you keep it on the paint too long.

There sure is a lot of advice in this thread about rolling fenders from people who have never done it... It's not that hard on these cars, they have good paint and strong metal. However, I strongly advise you do it with a proper fender rolling tool (like the one made by Eastwood), and not with the baseball bat method or anything like that. Slow and steady, with lots of heat is the secret. Don't just get the edges of the fender warm, get the whole area warm from the edge of the fender to like 5-6 inches out (this helps it retain the heat and not cool down too quickly). Get it hot enough so it's hot, but not too hot to touch. Slowly roll the fender in a bit at a time, it's not a one shot thing. It takes me 20-30 minutes per fender and at least ten passes when I roll them. Also, you don't need to roll the whole thing, just the areas where you need clearance. See the masking tape in my picture. Also notice that the area that needs clearance extends into the rear bumper, which needs trimming. In addition, you need to modify (cut/grind away a portion) of the edge of the rear quarter panel. I don't have pics of this, but if you get in there you'll see what I'm talking about. For reference, the wheels on my Turbo are 19x11 et32. They currently have 295/30s on them, but I have room for 305s while maintaining correct alignment settings. On a narrow body car, you will want to run 285s and have extra camber to make them fit without rubbing, but you will likely still have issues if you lower the car unless you run a lot of camber.

I am currently running a 19/11 with 58 offset 295/30/19 in the rears of a 04 C2 NB, lowered to one finger space between fender and tire with Coil-overs. it will just hit the fender on rough turns roads. I also have the Eastwood fender roller but also had to order the attachment to be able to use it on 5/130 wheel studs. when it gets a little warmer plan to roll the fenders in with heat gun. once I roll the fender I will go 305/30. the front are 18/8.5 with 45 offset and 235/40/18 tires, no problems in front.

Did you look at the offset he was trying to hide with a fender roll?

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The wheel is poking out... past the fender.

I agree, the fender rolling and camber needed to make these work was quite a bit. Tire wear on the inside 1� would be aggressive and costly. Rolling the fenders on a nice silver car is a crapshoot at best, not to mention that rolling quarters pulls on the spot welds moving paint and sealer to allow for corrosion if that�s a concern. I have learned over the years that its costly and time consuming to fit incorrect offset wheels to cars.