Valve cover off to access Vario cam solenoid

Hello again... next project is to replace the bank 1 Variocam solenoid. Bought the cam locking tool, new cam plugs and have a good sense how to do this from many YT vids.... but I have two questions: Ref: 1999 C2 3.4 M96 - 5 chain motor 1. Should I drain the oil before pulling the valve cover off? 2. If I find the variocam actuator slides are worn enough to justify replacing them.... how can I DIY a solution to create THE CORRECT (or close enough) pressure on the chain tensioner when reinstalling everything? ....I read somewhere you can "pump" some oil into the tensioner by hand by cycling it a few times and then installing it, and then doing a final tightening of the cam gear nuts. The correct tool is some $900... I have three small kids and a grumpy wife! 3. What gasket sealant should I use on the reinstall? ​​​​​​Thanks in advance for your thoughts and help, Michael

The adjuster can be compressed by using 2 sections of allthread and a few nuts. The issue is u may have left or right hand threads in the variocams. U will need m5 allthread, i bought both right and left thread parts so i would have the correct "tool" on hand. Im gona drop my motor later this week. i think its foolish to not swap the pads regaurdless of the condition.

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Agreed, I should just swap out the wear pads. I'll do it. However, my more pressing question is how to place the appropriate amount of pressure on the chain during reinstallation since the chain tensioner needs to be backed out to slack the chain, so I can disconnect the cam gear in the first place. Just so we're on the same page... the chain I'm referring to is the one that connects the IMS to the cams. I'm curious if I could just place marks on the position of chain, gear and cam adjustment bolts. If I position everything back the same way it came out... no change to the timing, right? Means I can re- ​​​reassemble with no pressure on the chain. Flawed logic? ​

Its my understanding that when u lock the cam, pull the cover and use a tool to hold down the cam the chain can not skip a tooth or move. The variocam is just a tensioner so when u remove and reinstall everything stays in the same spot and orientation. im not sure why the cam gear needs to be removed unless i missed the step in my research? well reread and u r correct the gear does come off but cam hold down tool should lock everything in place. good article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm

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To swap the sliders on the cam gear actuator, the entire device needs to lifted out... which means the chain needs enough slack to undo the bolts onnthhe gear, thus removing the cam chain tensioner on the bottom side of the engine is necessary. Right? ....or is my logic flawed?

I did edit my post with a link from pelican. the gear does come off but i think once compressed and unbolted the variocam assemby can be slid out. maybe im wrong, i think we may need more clarification? #porschetech3

A couple of things. You cannot change the IMS to exhaust cam chain without disassembling the engine. You can only replace some of the guides on the IMS to cam chains. You cannot change the IMS to cranks chain or its guides without disassembling the engine. The pads you should be changing now are the pads on the cam to cam adjuster and to do this without removing the cams is challenging. Good Luck?

You have to remove the cams to pull the vario-cam tensioner and change the pads. You should probably put new cam chains in as well - they're only around $30 ea. you've already gone this far...

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Correct, I plan to just change the pads on variocam actuator... which requires the cams to come out and ~4 long bolts hold it on place. I have no issues with this part of the job. .....my question pertains to re-assembly, how to best tackle the pre-tension on the chain running from the IMS to the cam without using the $900 Porsche cam chain tensioner - which I'm assuming is milled to a very specific length to apply just the right amount of tension on the chain so the cam timing can be set properly. If I mark the current position of the chains, cam gear and adjustment bolts - will that suffice? (Assuming my current timing is accurate).

Got it. In the pic i took there is a "securing" cam tool. Does that tool allow u to pull the cams and then just reinstall without re-timing? I wouldnt assume anything on reassembly and i would recheck every thing, but im hoping it would make it easier.

There are specific steps to re-timing. I don't remember them all off hand, but it's not that difficult. You do need a specific tool set, but it's not $900 (it might be for the official Porsche tools) more like $150... In any case, there are instructions floating around here and I think they're in the Bentley manual as well...

I think he is talking about a set of three tools that are used instead of the three tensioners. They place the correct amount of tension on the chains when setting the timing. I didn't use these. I replaced the tensioner set the timing then turned the engine several times and rechecked the timing. Here is some discussion about it and someone who made their own. http://986forum.com/forums/performan...rs-timing.html

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great thread, thx. I will be replacing my tensioners so i will make whats in that thread since i gave a bad start up rattle. For the op i would assume if he was not pulling the tensioners they would stay filled with oil(if still good) and he wont need to fo anything for tensioning the chain. i have a bentley and i got the chinese tools off ebay for $149. I should be good. another good cam removal and install article. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm

I think I found my answer on the Pelican Parts guide to this project... but I don't understand how I can just skip using this special tool vs. the chain tensioner itself?? Remove the chain tensioner for that bank--shown here is the tensioner for cylinder bank 1-3 (green arrow). With the tensioner removed, you should have enough slack to push on the chain sprocket (purple arrow) with your hand. Gently tap the sprocket on the rest of the way using a rubber mallet (inset photo). If you have the Porsche factory chain tensioner tool 9599, then install i t into the bottom of the case. Tighten the tension screw until the small rod in the center is flush with the adjustment screw. If you do not have this extremely expensive tool (upper right inset of Photo 24), you can tighten up the tension on the chain using the regular chain tensioner. Reinstall the tensioner completely into the bottom of the case.

Because the tensioner is filled with oil and that holds the piston in the correct position. If u were to put a new tensioner in u have to pump it up with oil. All the porsche tool does is hold the piston in place so it dosent push the internal spring down.

Quote: Originally Posted by dporto View Post There are specific steps to re-timing. I don't remember them all off hand, but it's not that difficult. You do need a specific tool set, but it's not $900 (it might be for the official Porsche tools) more like $150... In any case, there are instructions floating around here and I think they're in the Bentley manual as well... i have a bentley and i got the chinese tools off ebay for $149. I should be good. another good cam removal and install article. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ain_Repair.htm ^^^ Yeah, that's the one ^^^ ***Just a note on the timing adjustment tool (the one with the machined aluminum arm at the bottom left in the photo). The one in my kit was assembled backwards so it wouldn't fit when installed on the engine. As you can imagine this was a bit of a setback when I got to this step. Someone else had mentioned this possibility in one of the threads here regarding timing. Sure enough, when I checked it and flipped the end around everything lined up and worked perfectly...

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I have some similar looking tools I got off Amazon. If you have a 5-chain M96, then you should have what you need. If you have a 3-chain M96, you may be missing the correct camshaft lockdown tool. I had to buy a supplement tool set in order to have both. Also, the Bentley manual can be confusing on camshaft timing. In the M96 Rebuild DVD series, Jake has a chapter devoted to each engines camshaft timing. A broken camshaft, or worse, costs a lot more than the entire series, and there's a TON of info in the videos.

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Might be a dumb question... if the engine has been sitting for several weeks without starting, will the tensioners be drained of oil? ...what's the recommended way to pump them up so that during reassembly I can get the correct tension? Also, should I drain the oil before removing the valve cover. .....I really appreciate everyone's btw. Thank you.

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Not to beat a dead horse, but Jake demonstrates this as well in the M96 Rebuild DVD Series. It's also available on Amazon Prime.