Battery dead, front hood locked - help!

I've read this before - and for the life of me I can't seem to dig up the post. I read several posts telling me to supply power into the fuse box area ( this doesn't exist in '99 996's - like mine! ). Anyway, 1) Can I trickle charge from the 12V cigarette lighter port ? I don't know if it's connected back to the battery (or lock/unlock mechanism) even when the car is off. Where can I get a cheap one from Autozone/Kragen/etc? I can't order online since I'd need it this evening ... 2) There was a post on removing the door strip housing the hood release lever and unlocking the hood. Anyone knows how to do it or where that post is? (I can't find it )

Wait, I thought on the '99 the hood latch is a mechanical operation and not electrical? Pulling the lever by the driver's sidesill doesn't open the front hood? If you do need power, then yes, you can trickle charge the battery via the cigarette lighter. That's where the battery maintainer is plugged into.

My '00 has manual hood and trunk pulls. Were electric ones an option in '99?

My 2000 is mechanical, if it has electrical, I dont know where.

Im pretty sure it has instructions on how to open the trunk when the battery is dead

Not exactly. Its an electromechanical lock. Mechanically operated, but electrically LOCKED. I need electricity to unlock the lever itself THEN mechanically use the lever to unlock the hood. I'm thinking this " Pilot Porta-jump " might do the trick of unlocking the locks. I'm not sure about jumpstarting the car with this. Wouldn't the high current demanded by the started motor melt the cigarette lighter wires? Or are they saying I should trickle charge for 30 mins THEN start the car? AAh ... here is the perfect irony. I have a manual for a MY2000 (since I had lost the original, and MY99s manuals were all sold out). The MY2000 talks about the fuse box technique - something my MY99 car doesn't have Anyway, can anyone with a MY99 manual tell me how its done in that case? Thanks Sid

From page 92 of my manual (for a MY2000) Note When the battery is discharged, the lever for the front hood can't be unlocked. Using jumper cables, the battery of another car can be used to open the front hood. To connect the cables, refer to "Emergency Starting with Jumper Cables"... Yeah, I know, what am I doing with the manual in my office? Stefan

Use the cigarette lighter port to unlock the hood, then remove the center plastic piece by the cowl, connect jumper cables to the battery post and jump from there the engine.

The engine lid should pop regardless of power. Isn't there a positive battery terminal in the engine compartment? Stefan

even if there is on a MY1999, how would you get to it?

The manual only speaks to the front hood needing power. I assume that means the engine lid is accordingly manual, and you can get to it with a dead battery. Stefan

I'm going to try this in the evening when I get back home. And I don't have my manual in my office . Assuming it opens, where is the terminal post? This is my best bet for now. I'm going to buy that "porta-jump" (mental note: stop calling it porta-potty) and then unlock the hood, then power the battery. As a side note, I've been driving my girlfriends BMW 3 series convertible for the last few days, before and after the long weekend. I'd been LONGING to get into my car and met with the dead battery ... can't wait to drive it to work again tomorrow ... need some Porsche therapy !!

push start your car!

According to the manual, inside a little black box marked with a +, on the right side above the air cleaner. Stefan

Up until MY01 the front and rear lids were cable operated (mechanical). There is however a solenoid for locking purposes that locks the handles so that they can not be raised. That is the "electronic" part that keeps you from opening the mechanical releases. Just use the emergency release under the right front wheel well liner.

I have that too, on MY2003. however, you have to unlock the lid electronically before you can open it manually, right?

if you back feed a charger into the cigar lighter close the doors lock and unlock the car you will be able to open the front trunk

Thanks for the explanation Loren....I was sitting here trying to figure out how a mechanically operated front trunk release catch....that I've removed several times and can see that it's all mechanical....would in any way be "electronic". The only electronic part of it are the wires that go to the alarm system to let you know it's unlocked, and to the pressure activated trunk light switch. All the rest is flat out mechanical.

Just curious, was the issue resolved? Does the back lid open even with a dead battery? If logic applies then if Porsche tells you to use the positive terminal to open the front lid in the event of a dead battery, you should be able to get to it. Othersie, you are SOL. Stefan

As Loren explained, both levers are locked in the down position if there is no battery power to withdraw the locking pin in the handle assembly. Like the front bonnet, the engine lid has an emergency cable .... under the driver's side tail light assembly. You can usually retrieve it by gently prying the light unit up with something flat and non-metalic (paint stick, plastic spatula, etc), and then inserting some small wire or hook to fish out the pull loop. Having done this once, I removed the light fixture and rerouted and relocated that pull wire to a much easier to access (but out of sight) spot under the engine .... holding it in place and out of sight with a tie wrap. In many other threads on this subject, the relocating of the front emergency release to a position behind the front bumper has been described. It works great.

Alright, so I sorted this out. Breakdown of approaches ... 1. That porta-jump kit, the one that plugs into the cigarette lighter? Throw it away. It doesn't work. Forget jump starting, it doesn't even power up the locks etc. It simply lights up the dash lights and that too pulsates them a bit. I was worried I might have fried some electrical components, but it wasn't so. Just stay away from this one. 2. The front 'emergency' release cable. Well, I got a custom front bumper and the shape of the new bumper makes reaching for the cable impossible. Also, my front air ducts have neat wire meshes, so I can't access the cable thru it either. 3. I don't have a +ve post in the fuse box (absent on MY99). So can't use this method of powering up. 4. The rear engine lid was also locked. So I couldn't open it to power up the car. Note, I don't know if there is a +ve terminal there, someone here just said there could be. Theory unverified. 5. I had to disassemble the driver side door sill. Then poke my finger and disengage the lock on the trunk release lever. Then pull the lever and get the battery out of the front hood and charge it overnight on a charger. Next day morning dropped it back in and everything worked great !! Details of the above #5. ------------------------------ 0) Print this and go to your car. 1) On the driver side door sill, there is a long plastic piece that houses the two (hood & trunk) levers. 2) On the inner side of that piece, facing the driver seat, there are 3 plastic plugs that plug 3 holes. Pop them off with a plastic spatula or finger nails. (see attached image. Image is seen from driver side to outside) 3) Insert a M6 (metric size 6) allen (i.e. hexagonal head) wrench and unscrew the screw in that hole. Turn 3-4 revolutions only, there is no need to unscrew them completely. Do this for all the 3 holes. 4) Now gently lift that plastic trim. You will prying it out of 3 fastening screws at each end, so don't worry. 5) Gently turn the whole unit 90 so you can see under it. Try opening the hood lever - it won't open. You will see a lock below. 6) Move that lock by your fingers, then pull the lever to unlock the hood. 7) This lock is connected to a hook that sits in a electrically operated plastic loop. When reassembling everything make sure they line up again (#6, moving the lock, may cause them to be slightly misaligned) 8) Put everything back !

i told you what to do, 12v into the cigar lighter close the door lock and unlock the door with the remote open door pull release. d ont try to strat the car through the cigar lighter d

Glad you got in, but you have a couple of incorrect impressions, it seems. Unless you've moved it, front emergency cable is not behind nor associated with the bumper. Its in the front right fender, forward of the wheel well liner. Engine lid also has an emergency release cable, as noted in an earlier post in this thread.

sids911: did you take some pics of the procedure?

I went through this ordeal Friday night. neither Triple A or Porsche Roadside assitance were capable of getting the hood open. Ok Triple A is bad but PORSCHE roadside assistance is outrageous. I gave Triple A hell about this. Apareantly they both use the same tow truck companies. so I decided I would have Triple A tow the car to the local Porsche dealer, only problem with that was the service department decided to take the day off Saturday!! I tried to jimmy the latches open with a flat head screw driver but no dice. I also couldn't find this red tab in the fuse panel that some have used. Just an empty slot for a fuse there. Decided to see if I could find one of those cigarette lighter chargers at the Target three blocks away. They had a Black & Decker jump start battery pack with a cigarette lighter plug for $60. Plugged it in... VOILA open hood. It needs to charged for a day before it has enough juice to completely jump start the car but I'm keeping it in cabin permanently. it fits in your glove box. I also saw it at Wal-Mart when I was trying to find Mobil 0-40 which of course they were out of.

I agree with you in theory. However in practice, "lock and unlock the door with the remote" didn't work. I kept pressing the button but the car wouldn't remote lock or unlock. My release cable reaches only till the front right radiator grills, so its closer to the front vents (thru the bumper) than thru the wheel well liner. Is there a better way to route that cable to make it easier to reach from the wheel liner? I'd REALLY want to make that cable more accessible for future ... ahem ... incidents! Also, where is the release cable for the rear engine compartment? Sorry dude - I did this in a rush during my spare time. If I'd done this on a weekend I'd have photographs. It's actually a lot simpler than it sounds. Once you see the unit's bottom in person it will make sense. I'm SO glad that worked for you. You have a MY99? I might buy the Black and Decker unit if so. Also, Kragen refused to take back their part which clearly didn't work at all. The store assistant manager said I may have damaged the parts etc etc (yeah accusations!). I told him he can pick a new part from his store and try it on my car. If it worked I'd buy it, else he should take back the one that failed for me. He simply couldn't fathom the logic. Anyways, I wasted 20 minutes but got a written and signed declaration stating they wouldn't take back a part that didn't work as advertised just because I had opened the package. (Doh! Until I opened and tried it how would I know their product is going to fail?!). Anyway, I've filed a claim with my credit card, but next time its AutoZone ... screw Kragen.

its not a thoery I do it at least twice a week

Sid911, I had a nearly identical hassle returning an item to AutoZone. The clerk accussed me of using the item for my project and then trying to be a cheap skate and return the item. I had to pinch myself (the tape was still on the packaging) I just looked at this person in silence....I got my refund. I have a 2000 BoxsterS. you might try this too, saw it at the mall this weekend. Hood Opener via Cigarette Lighter.

Very early in my ownership, I saw this one on RennTech. Reroute the front release cable forward from in front of the wheel well liner to the void in the front fender behind the headlight. Remove the right headlight (its easy), grab the cable, and run it down into the void behind the front bumper. Remove the right bumper plug, and run the cable out throught that hole. Attach it to the back of the bumper plug with wire/tie wrap, etc. Then reinsert the plug. Next time you need to pop the hood without electrics, pry out the plug, fish out the cable loop end, and pull. Rear release cable is under the left taillight assembly. Porsche's intended method is to gently pry up the light unit with something flat & non-metallic. (paint stirrer, spatula, etc). It will shift up slightly. Then reach under the light with with a small hook, stiff wire, etc and fish out the cable. Pull. I rerouted mine to under the engine and secured it out of sight with a tie wrap. Reach under and jerk.

I attempted to open the hood using a donor battery using tbe positive terminal in the fuse box and the door catch per the factory instructions. It did not work. The problem was the catch was not grounded. When I attached the negative lead to a stud under the car, zap!, power! Pop-a-hood.

I've had the same problem (front hood does not open without battery) and the cigar lighter has not worked. Big thanks to Sids911 - this is the best solution (mine is 2000 996 - the manual release is locked for the hood, not for the engine lid). Two comments: Allen wrench was 5 mm (not 6 mm) and I had to cut it short to access the 3rd bolt which has access restricted by the driver's seat. And the best thing is that while there, you can fix the problem PERMANENTLY. The latch lock is connected to the locking solenoid with a thick wire which I have removed. Problem solved forever, the hood release will never get blocked :-)

Ran into this issue today. Battery completely dead, no way to pop the hood on my 2005 Turbo "S" to get access to battery�.so, I noticed the kick plate access cover on the left front side of the passenger compartment had a pic of a battery with a bolt though it, and a picture of the hood�..so I pulled it out, and there is a small picture brochure on the inside of the access cover. In 27 languages it basically tells you to look at the fuse box, pull the red tab out. Connect a positive 12 volt source to this. Connect a negative source to the latch on the door. Power up the external power source (I used a battery charger) and then pull the switch up on the floor of the car and it will unlock.

That would be the electric release button.

This is all in the manual.

What is a manual?

A manual is the thing you can not get for a '99. Sunset will order one for you with the disclaimer that they are on back order, and Porsche will reprint them after enough orders have been placed.

forget about the wheel well liner... here is what I did... pop off the passenger side market light from the bumper... I'm assuming your aftermarket front bumper still has the holes for the side lights in the stock positions... it comes off easy.... have a very bright flashlight handy and straiten out a close hanger and make a small "hook" with it because you'll be using this to reach in through the side marker hole.... before you put the close hanger in get one one knee and flash the light in an angle that allows you to see everything through the hole... what your looking for is a "loop" of braided cable.... you will see the braided cable as it's braided texture will reflect slightly against the bright flashlight... it may take you 5-10 minutes to locate it... once you have located it just feed the fishook of the closehanger you have bent into the hole being careful not to yank on any other electrical wires... hook the braided loop and pull... ! your hood should pop... the most difficult part here was a) locating the braided loop and b) keeping the light steady while you try to "hook" the loop.... I found it was easy to feed the closehanger in once I actually located the hook... you will have to just feed it in to a depth you think is correct and then use the flashlight and one eye to see how close you are.. this is the difficult part... but locating the hook really helps because you can easily guide it once you are aware of it's location.

I had the same problem, see this link: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...upid-help.html

Hi guys, my brother is looking at a car for me in LA and the car is running, but they can't get the hood or the trunk open. 1999 Cab Any thoughts? Zenski

Did they hear the latch release? If so the adjustable (screw in screw out) rubber pcs on the inside of the hood are screwed in too far to give the hood a chance to pop up? make sense? That happened to me and I used a thin jimmy bar to pry it open. Use a rag on the bumper first. Hope this helps.

Quotes source post: 4233558

OK Syd I looked back and found a couple of postings regarding this problem. Mine is a 99 job and fully mechanical.. here are the posts in no particular order. When I had the front of the car off cleaning my radiators of leaves and cigarette ends I found the loop end wire hanging down freely. I wondered what it was, pulled on it and saw the front latch move. After I figured it was a release cable for the hood I cut a hole in the air scoop and now mine hangs out of site but easily reachable from inside the left scoop (and it works fine). The cable was out of sight somewhere behind the front bumper which I had removed. I wonder if there is a way to have the REAR engine release cable hanging outside in the wheel well without having to remove a rear lamp cover to gain access to it. ummmm food for thought there but I found the rear one accidentally while changing a burnt tail light bulb. Its underneath the Left tail light assembly. You'd need to snake a thin wire with a hook between the lens and the body to grab the loop and pull it out. Then, just pull outward towards the left of the car to release the engine cover... Now...anyone find the front one yet? Is it under the headlight Two pull cables? I found the front trunk pull cable when I removed the front end of the car to clean my radiators and condensers last week. I also found a worn out Police radar scanner which I slung. I threaded the trunk pull cable through a home made slit on one of the air intakes so now it hangs just out of site but easily reachable should I ever need to use it. When you say two cables, is there one for the engine compartment which I don't know about? If so where as I stand looking in the engine compartment is this second cable? Thanks. You can unlock your door with your ignition key BTW to gain access to the mechanical leavers. The leaver has nothing electrically connected to it to my knowledge. I can feel the pull of a connecting wire. Now if that wire snaps then the other one comes into play and that is a manual pull as well. If yours has anything electrically connected to it then apart from maybe a night light to show where it is located then it cannot be a 1999 996 C2 Cab. If you have a 99 job then forget all the crap about cig lighters and fuses and electrical connections. Theres only one other poster KIM who is on track here. And this posting of course. OH and a few early posters who clearly state that 99 jobs are all mechanical when getting into the engine and trunk.(frunk).. Later models maybe but not 99s. You might want to search youtube and find where a guy cleans his radiators on a 99 996.. Its a straight forward job then you can re-route your cable, when you find it, via a slit by a stanley knife, into the plastic air scoop next to the temp sensor which you see from outside the front of the car on the PASSENGER side scoop. Killing two birds with one stone. Hope that helps

Dead battery. Battery Tender JR. plugged into the cig lighter. Doors now closed and car locked. Is the Tender Jr. strong enough to charge the battery? How long will this take?

Quotes source post: 9361985

Yes it is strong enough. If the batter is nearly dead it could take a couple days to charge. I would think you should see a green flashing light indicating 80% charge before that. If not you may have a bad cell. If so get the battery tested because in that case it may never charge. Good luck.

Quotes source post: 9350625

99 cab.. I have one. All mechanical.. key in drivers door. Open the door grab the front release handle on the door sill and pull. If you hear a click you are in the hood department. If not then you go through all that crap fishing around under the wheel well for the alternate cable. Read the other posts. You did say a 99 cab didn't you? If it is then thats the way. No electrically operated release on mine.

Quotes source post: 4233591

what on a 99.... NO WAY. The battery doesnt enter into the equation. Its a mechanical release on a 99 job.

Hello everybody, am new to this board, looks like a great resource! Does anybody know if the fuse box "jump" method works when the battery has been disconnected? I went on long assignment overseas and thought disconnecting the battery would preserve it, but now I am unable to open the hood. Any input would be appreciated.

Quotes source post: 14096412

Yes it should. Use a portable jumper or hook it up to another car's battery. Use the lock latch on the door jam as the ground point.

Thank you Ahsai! I figured as much. My car jump isn't working so I think I'll have to call AAA.

Um, that should have worked. Did the interior lights turn on with the jumper cables connected?

No, the interior lights did not, but again, there is no battery. That jump fuse, I believe, I only for the hood latch. Funny thing though, I can hear the slight "clicking" when I connect the ground.

I checked my owner's manual (996). It says to leave the key on the door lock. Not sure if that is critical or not.

And assuming you have an electrical trunk release, use your remote to unlock the hood, not the switch/lever in the car. But then again that may not work since there is no battery in the car.

Well, Ahsai and jhbrennan I just wanted to update you, the trunk did open via the key remote. I called the AAA guy early this morning and he came out and connected his cable to the fuse connector but the trunk failed to release. I mean complete silence. He was bewildered like I was and on a whim he pressed the release button on the key and it released instantly. I was very surprised (and felt really dumb) by this as I did not think the key would work without the battery connected, but it did just fine. We then connected the battery and it started right up, very strong. I think it has sat for about nine months. So, this can be a lesson for anybody that experiences a similar situation. Thank you both for the help!

Glad you got it sorted. I think the reason was the alarm was armed so only the remote could open the trunk.

No, it doesn't have an alarm.

FYI I had this problem today. I fished forever for that release cable, small metallic braided wire, with the skirt partially removed and couldn't find it (i later found it just for fun by removing the passenger headlight but it's hard to get to! it's towards the center of the car at the back left corner of the tray the headlight rests on) I used a booster pack on the + terminal (passenger side about 2/3 over covered by a black plastic cover) and on a airbox bolt (ground) next to the latch and this gave me the power i needed. funny, I did this to myself by turning off the battery with a kill switch the po installed after I'd locked the car. stupid. but good to know you can energize the solenoid without a closed circuit at the battery using this method. hope this helps someone in Google!