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YOUR RESEARCHHigh mileage 996 - When to perform a suspension overhaul?
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Check email
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High mileage 996 - When to perform a suspension overhaul?
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Replace arms/links/joints struts and springs by 89k
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I acquired my 996 at 84k, and replaced all the arms/links/joints struts and springs by 89k.
High mileage 996 - When to perform a suspension overhaul?
Replace aside
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I haven't had a single component of the suspension "need" (zero play) to be replaced, aside from the front bump stops, which were dry rotted.
High mileage 996 - When to perform a suspension overhaul?
Replace several components
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It may be placebo or that I've replaced several components with monoball and poly.
High mileage 996 - When to perform a suspension overhaul?
Run $630
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Just had all 3 of these rubber parts replaced and cost for this ran $630 for Parts & 2.2 hours labor @ $170 / hour at my Indy.
High mileage 996 - When to perform a suspension overhaul?
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Hi All
,
New to the forum and 996 world. How many mile before I need a suspension overhaul? My car has just over a 100k. 5Kish of which were DE events
Thanks,
Jon
By 100k miles, technically all control arms/ball joints, both inner and outer tie rods, and shocks are in need of replacing.
Shocks are more prone to "wearing" due to age. The seals degrade over time, whether they are used or not.
It's up to you on what you decide to replace, but any parts you replace will improve the ride and handling.
Mine was around 70K miles when I started replacing bits proactively. I haven't had a single component of the suspension "need" (zero play) to be replaced, aside from the front bump stops, which were dry rotted. That said, it feels much tighter with new stuff in there. It may be placebo or that I've replaced several components with monoball and poly.
"When" is subjective. I'd say that you'll
know
when to replace suspension parts.
Anecdotal: My struts went bad around 73k, after a couple weeks of wobbly boat driving, I replaced them.
I currently have 105K on my 4S. Other than replace some of the rubber boots, my suspension has not required any maintenance and is currently as far as I know in perfect working order. At some point, I would like to go to an adjustable suspension on it but that would be to upgrade the car not out of any need.
you'll get different advice from different people.
I personally changed out all the suspension components with bushings at 120k miles on my 99 Boxster. Also new Bilstein B8 shocks and H&R sport springs.
OTOH, there's a member in the Boxster forum who repeatedly comments about going 317K miles on his original shocks on the advice of his Porsche techs.
Mine is starting to feel the same way. It doesn't feel planted when I take a twisty backroad. I guess it is time to start replacing them. Is the row m030 suspension upgrade worth it?
from what I'm reading,
yes
it's worthy upgrade. But at the currently high costs, I'd say get coilovers or any number of spring and strut combos instead. I personally found a set of rears from a car with 25k miles that was wrecked in the front, and a set of fronts that were used only a thousand miles, until the PO swapped to coils, on eBay. I was all in for around $550-600, including shipping.
I'll be using 30mm lowering springs in a few weeks.
GL
I acquired my 996 at 84k, and replaced all the arms/links/joints struts and springs by 89k. It didn't drive bad on the test drive or on the near 800mi drive home... but really was amazing once refreshed.
I just finished installing a m030 kit on my 99 C4 that has gone 80k. The original dampers and springs felt pretty much like new to me, the top mounts however were starting to fail and the top bearings were full of dried grease and dirt.
I haven�t driven the car yet, still a bit of snow left, but I�m expecting at least a small improvement in handling since it was a m030 kit I installed, maybe not so much because of the old stuff beeing worn.
This. Age matters as much as mileage on rubber parts. Here's a photo of my suspension overhaul on my 2003 C2 (I have since sold this car to my Dad when I bought my 6-GT3, did this before turning it over to him). M030 kit plus all new arms. Not a bad job, on a lift it took me a full Saturday going slow.
Nice. Can you share the name of the vendor and brands of the components you purchased? Once I get my engine completed and running, I'll be looking in to this.
I'm happy with mine too!
I installed my FEAL coilovers (also drop links & toe links) in September of 2018 and it handled
much
better.
Then I replaced my control arms, coffin arms, control arm links in October of 2019.
I was amazed at how well my 996 handled afterwards!
OEM Porsche M030 Euro kit purchased from Suncoast (includes shocks, springs, spacers, and sway bars (does not include top mounts, front top bearings)
All other parts purchased individually from Pelican Parts (Strut tops, front top bearings, hardware, suspension arms, drop links, etc).
Unfortunately I understand the price of the factory M030 has skyrocketed in the past year due to Porsche increasing their pricing on it.
Even a couple years ago I had to wait about 4 months for the M030 kit to arrive from Germany, but it was WORTH the wait!
Thanks for the reply, Nick. I was dazzled by how nice all those parts looked. My application will be to maintain or raise slightly over stock ride height. Still haven't gotten any confirmation on whether FEAL, or other coil-over kits allow for this. I might just go with Bilstein shocks/ struts and small spacers at the top of each mount.
I need an operational engine first...
There is a ROW M030 kit for a 996 C4 for sale on eBay. I believe that the only difference between it and the C2 model is the spring rate. Can anyone confirm?
I think you will find the front struts top mount is different too, as well as spring rate. I accidentally got springs for a C4 and they are totally different in size at the top of the front struts.
Here is the link if anyone is looking for a kit for a C4 Cabriolet. $1k no bids
porsche 911 996 suspension ROW M030 2002-05 C4 Cabriolet
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15387072799...NG_SOON.R1.TR2
Beyond suspension parts, consider the Motor, and Trans mounts. And if it is a C4 like mine the drive shaft "Donut" or Flex Joint.
In preparation for the upcoming 3000 mile trip to Parade I had several maintenance issues addressed.
Just had all 3 of these rubber parts replaced and cost for this ran $630 for Parts & 2.2 hours labor @ $170 / hour at my Indy. I know these are DIY tasks but at my age ... worth paying $1000 for. All the old parts were in very poor shape - but you just don't notice the slow deterioration of these rubber parts.
Sadly the Coolant tank was also leaking so that was another $1000... :-(
But the tailpipes are an inch higher and everything feels smother, in particular on power up or down shifts.
And after 10 years with this Carrera I still love the way it drives and handles.
P.S. I had a PSS-9 kit installed at 60,000 miles and several other bits along the way.
I had a set of Feal coilovers on this car before I put the M030. I doubt you could get higher than stock USA spec as the max height with them. They supplied spacers for the front for higher ride heights with them but still I think your max height is going to be close to M030 Euro with them. I had the car at Cup car ride height with solid suspension for track use (hence why I converted everything back to stock rubber and M030 before selling the car to my Dad who daily drives it).
H&R is to me more cost effective... it lowers the car about 1 1/2�. Important to re-align the car and you can�t get rear toe within spec... order and install rear toe links from Tarret... your rear tires will thank you
Haha! I think Autocorrect got you!
Mike meant Tarret. ($285 each)
https://www.tarett.com/items/996-997...mps-detail.htm
I myself went with these due to cost: ($381 per pair)
https://www.vividracing.com/torque-s...150724394.html
I just need to replace my old shocks 74,000 miles, don't need to lower or firmer, just back to original. Looks like
Bilstein B4 oe repl set $1235
Could not find B6
Bikstein 8 performance plus $1006
Koni special active (Red) $832
Koni 2Yellow sports $1041
Feal Cilovers $1285.
Any thoughts
I�m definitely a Feal fan.
Mine are set slightly higher than stock due to my commute, which will no longer be my commute after tomorrow.
It hasn�t been my commute since the quarantine anyways.
Depending upon my new commute when the quarantine is over, I might lower mine some.
I like that the firmness can be easily changed.
I have mine set at 5 front and 10 rear.
All the way soft (0) was too soft, and all the way hard(28) was too hard for commuting.
Bruce - can you estimate how much higher your car sits in the current setting? I still haven't gotten a solid answer on this. If you have direct experience, I'd like to hear it.
I don�t have exact numbers, but maybe 1/2� to and 1� higher.
here are my measurements from the garage floor with 18� wheels and Michelin Pilot 4S tires
F: 225/40R18
R: 285/30R18
Tape measure is perpendicular to the floor, the iPhone camera isn�t.
