9 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSuspension Arms Install Angles?
Leading reported evidence
Tighten inner bolt of the lower control arm
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Those two index points need to be in alignment when tightening the inner bolt of the lower control arm.
Leading evidence: 'Tighten inner bolt of the lower control arm' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Tighten inner bolt of the lower control arm' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Question is for front LCAs, dog bones and tuning fork arms, do I need to tighten them at the angle they would be at if the car was on the ground or can I install and tighten the nuts/bolts while on the lift and the suspension is hanging?
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Suggestion
What you can do as an interim measure, is to install them loose, put a jack under the arm and jack it up to compress the suspension until if “just about” lifts off the jack stand (assuming that is what you’re using), then tighten.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Question is for front LCAs, dog bones and tuning fork arms, do I need to tighten them at the angle they would be at if the car was on the ground or can I install and tighten the nuts/bolts while on the lift and the suspension is hanging?
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
What you can do as an interim measure, is to install them loose, put a jack under the arm and jack it up to compress the suspension until if “just about” lifts off the jack stand (assuming that is what you’re using), then tighten.
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9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Hi all, I have been procrastinating on installing my new suspension components and need to get around to it. Question is for front LCAs, dog bones and tuning fork arms, do I need to tighten them at the angle they would be at if the car was on the ground or can I install and tighten the nuts/bolts while on the lift and the suspension is hanging? I have access to a two post and an alignment lift, so no real issues on having the equipment to do the job, but I'm not sure on the process. The car will be taken to a specialist fo the alignment right after the install, but I'm concerned about damaging something during my ride there.
Thanks!
What bomb said. What you can do as an interim measure, is to install them loose, put a jack under the arm and jack it up to compress the suspension until if “just about” lifts off the jack stand (assuming that is what you’re using), then tighten. Your alignment shop co do a final torque on them once loaded on the rack.
Great timing! I'm in the middle of this job and was just wondering how/why it would be designed such that rubber bushing was torqued when the suspension moved.....weird
With my ohlins installed and on the jack stands, the control arm wants to be dangling a little more to get the marks to align. This means when the car was off the stands and loaded with its weight, the bushing would be under torsion. You would think you want the bushing unloaded when the car is sitting on its wheels. Actually, I don't understand why its designed such that torsion is applied to the bushing at all
Personally, I’d tighten at the actual loaded position (zero preload). The marks can only be basic reference points based on a single ride height (likely stock ROW). If it’s any consolation, Porsche isn’t the only one who uses this same bushing design. I am no expert or Porsche trained mechanic thought.
