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YOUR RESEARCHDM Flywheel - Install as-is, resurface, or replace?
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Replace back in 2005 due
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Mine had been replaced back in 2005 due to a Porsche bulletin for noise.
DM Flywheel - Install as-is, resurface, or replace?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace back in 2005 due' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend flywheel option besides the luk dmf' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Do you recommend a flywheel option besides the Luk DMF?
DM Flywheel - Install as-is, resurface, or replace?
Replace (shifts) slower and/or more stress
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Suggestion
The EPS/Audi disk is also heavier, making disk speed changes (shifts) slower and/or more stress on the syncro's.
DM Flywheel - Install as-is, resurface, or replace?
Use eps clutch kit
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Suggestion
On this subject, I also looked into using the EPS clutch kit but didn't go with it as I'd already ordered my OEM Luk kit.
DM Flywheel - Install as-is, resurface, or replace?
Use luk special tool
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Suggestion
Using the Luk special tool to check for deflection in two planes, about 75% of the flywheels we see today fail.
DM Flywheel - Install as-is, resurface, or replace?
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Thank for looking!
not sure if a pic will tell a thousand words in this instance. But, from this pic, do you think I can reinstall as-is? Or should I resurface or replace? It�s an original DMF with 95k. I do not feel any scoring as I have with brake rotors. But, there is a slight ridge at the edge of the friction contact point.
oh, it does pass the 15mm right/left, spring back to center, test.
Thanks!
That surface looks as good as or better than mine did when I resurfaced at ~40k miles this last January. Mine had been replaced back in 2005 due to a Porsche bulletin for noise. Tough call for you though being original with 95k miles as the internal spring mechanism could be near the end of it's life even though it's within spec. I'd ask the shop about that.
Oh and don't believe those that say you can't resurface a dual mass. It's just a matter of an inspection and taking a couple thousandth's off. The shop just needs to have a mill with the right fixture. The shop I took mine to charged $75 (vs $550 for a new one) and they do 10-20 DM a week, mostly VW & Audi. Now with 2k miles on it and working great.
Fresh face:
I re-used mine after spraying it down with an entire can of carb cleaner, including the spring mechanism between the plates. Still working fine. With regard to the ridge, depending on how high it is, might be able to knock it down with and abrasive wheel or floppy wheel thing attached to a drill, matter of fact, gave mine a light re-surface doing exactly that using one of those floppy wheels. Best of luck.
I debated this when doing mine as well (76K miles). I decided to just buy the luk dm flywheel for something like $500. I haven't heard anything about original dm flywheels failing so I can't chime in on the pro's and con's of doing so.
Ok, but to let you know I went to my garage yesterday and dropped my trans just to take that picture for you.
On this subject, I also looked into using the EPS clutch kit but didn't go with it as I'd already ordered my OEM Luk kit. It's very noticeable that the disc doesn't use up the available surface of the DMF and PP. Apparently the EPS upgrade disc is an OEM Audi part having 30% more surface area and rated for more torque. Seems like a good idea. At $389 the kit costs less yet it also includes the TO bearing. Maybe next time but that could be in a few years.
The EPS/Audi disk is also heavier, making disk speed changes (shifts) slower and/or more stress on the syncro's.
The 30% more surface area is to the inside of the circumference, so doesn't equate to 30% more holding force, but does increase it a little. Main advantage would be longer lasting ( if driven like a grandmaw).
So just stay with the Porsche disk, it's lighter, shifts faster, less stress on the syncro's, and will last plenty long enough.....
With these flywheels the surface is the least of my concerns. Using the Luk special tool to check for deflection in two planes, about 75% of the flywheels we see today fail.
I am seeing phantom misfires (that people can't figure out) caused by a failure of the flywheel. Going it a new surface doesn't help with that, since the differential material between the two masses has failed due to heat, and time in service.
Thank you for your input, Jake. Do you recommend a flywheel option besides the Luk DMF? You have me wondering if there�s a high probability I might receive a non conforming replacement.
