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YOUR RESEARCH996 Valve Cover Oil Leak
Reported or suspected cause
access
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
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Reported cause
It will show some diy tools.The best are the bolt and washer designs but be careful and only buy good quality replacement parts.Cheapo ones leak/crack !The problem is access !
Leading evidence: 'access' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'access' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check visually' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
but after getting under the car it was clear my issue was the drivers side valve cover leaking on the headers.
failing/failed aos causing high crankcase pressure
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
With the help of Jake Raby and Porshtec3, the culprit was a failing/failed AOS causing high crankcase pressure that forced oil from the driver side cam cover on top and the cam bore plug on the left.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A 3rd option I have used is Reinzosil (what comes when you buy the TuneRSMotorsports/Pedro deep sump kit) with success on the oil pan of my Boxster when I installed my LN 2 QT deep sump, still going strong with no leaks, easy to apply with the key and the metal toothpaste like tube, and easy to get on Amazon and other places and a lot cheaper than Drei Bond.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I cleaned a little bit of the oil at the bottom after I took the pic but I don't think I could get it all clean enough to assess the exact leak without dropping the exhaust to really get at it.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I cleaned a little bit of the oil at the bottom after I took the pic but I don't think I could get it all clean enough to assess the exact leak without dropping the exhaust to really get at it.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A 3rd option I have used is Reinzosil (what comes when you buy the TuneRSMotorsports/Pedro deep sump kit) with success on the oil pan of my Boxster when I installed my LN 2 QT deep sump, still going strong with no leaks, easy to apply with the key and the metal toothpaste like tube, and easy to get on Amazon and other places and a lot cheaper than Drei Bond.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
access
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
It will show some diy tools.The best are the bolt and washer designs but be careful and only buy good quality replacement parts.Cheapo ones leak/crack !The problem is access !
failing/failed aos causing high crankcase pressure
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
With the help of Jake Raby and Porshtec3, the culprit was a failing/failed AOS causing high crankcase pressure that forced oil from the driver side cam cover on top and the cam bore plug on the left.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
45 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T174436Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I thought that the odd faint smell of burnt oil was from a RMS leak... but after getting under the car it was clear my issue was the drivers side valve cover leaking on the headers.
Anyone get this fixed recently?
Did you DIY? any tutorials?
or pay to get it done... if so, any idea what a fair price is to get it done?
You Tube
Are you sure it's not from spark plug tubes? Look up higher and see if there's oil coming from the middle of the valve cover area, not just the perimeter. I had this exact issue and it was one of the spark plug tubes. Replaced that and it's been bone dry ever since.
If it was spark plug tubes leaking then maybe all 3 leaked then...or the oil got splashed around a lot. One of mine leaked and it was very localized at one spot, easy fix. You need to clean that whole area and check again after a drive to see where the oil is coming from. That would be easier to diagnose this leak. Cheers,
Spray some citrus degreaser on the affected areas .
Let it soak in over night and clean it off .
Use more degreaser as needed .
A light and care full pressure wash if needed
Once it's pretty clean , take it for a good drive , stop and check it out every now and them through the day as you use it .
See if you can see where it's coming from .
Park it overnight and check it for leaks , if you put a big sheet of cardboard under the motor it might help you locate the drips .
Good thread on changing the tubes .
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...ark-plug-tube/
They are correct about hunting first .Gravity and surface tension never sleep !That will often fool you about where the leak is. Do not wish for a valve cover re-seal task !Plug seals are much easier.But if you have to do the valve cover you will be doing plug seals and tubes anyway.
Valve cover R&R is tedious. Removing the old sealant is awful and you must get it perfectly clean or you will be doing it again ! Then you need the correct sealant Loctite 5900 or DreiBond (ask here) . Then you need to apply one continuous bead of 3mm max with no sags .It is an exacting task with the engine on a stand. In the car is an interesting test of fortitude and concentration.Ask your local cake decorator for training ?:-)
Can't you tell I have done this a few times?
Specific techniques and special tools in Search
Will I be able to see if it is the spark plug tubes without taking off any parts? I took the car off the jackstands already. I don't mind jacking it back up but I don't want to remove any parts.
It looks like there is some shield in the way.
Yes, no need to remove parts yet. As others have said, your best bet is to clean it off first and then positively find the leak before taking anything apart. Once it's all clean, drive it some more and if it continues to leak, you'll see where it's coming from. If it's from the spark plug tubes, you'll see a clear drool of oil coming directly from the spark plug tube, under the coil pack. If it's from somewhere else, all the spark plug tube areas should remain dry.
If it's a spark plug tube, those are quite easy to replace. The valve cover gasket is more of a job.
Good luck!
There is a heat shield over the coils that will obscure your vision a little, but you should still be able to see if it's coming from the spark plug area vs. the perimeter gasket once you get it cleaned up and get fresh leaked oil. Heat shield is easy to take off with 2 10mm screws if you want to look closer.
Not too surprising that one seal would fail ahead of all the others, mine was the same way. One failed spark plug tube seal on the passenger side, everything else dry.
Ok, I looked and the oil does appear to go up behind the heat shield. I cleaned a little bit of the oil at the bottom after I took the pic but I don't think I could get it all clean enough to assess the exact leak without dropping the exhaust to really get at it.
It was tough to get a good pic, but here is the best I could do.
Clean it good, then take a good look as Asai mentioned with the HS removed.
When was the last oil change? That shard in your filter would have me concerned.
The heat-shield is only 2 small screws, very easy and fast to remove. After that you can clean everything up good. Hopefully it's just the crack tubes that leak which is very common on these 996. Good-luck!
Last oil change was 12 months/4500 miles ago with Joe Gibbs Oil. I just put in some 0w/40 Mobil 1.
I can get to the heat shield screws but can't see how to get the shield out of the way. I'll give it a go tonight.
What do you mean? Do you take issue with Mobil 1 or the weight of the oil?
What would be your recommendation?
Either way, I don't plan on getting much use out of it since I will be dropping the pan either this weekend or next.
Don't mean to stirring up an age old debate here....
I meant that you contaminated your Gibbs oil with another kind regardless of mixing weights. Good news is you will be draining it soon anyways. Personally I use DT40. If I could not get DT40 I would use Motul.
That Loctite is a devil to get out of the tube unless you have the little caulk like gun to squeeze it out. I have heard some people soak the tube in hot water first to make it easier. I used this on my first trip into the oil pan to install an X-51 style baffle. Squeezing that Loctite was the hardest part of the job.
Drei Bond comes with a little metal key to squeeze their metal tube, like toothpaste.
A 3rd option I have used is Reinzosil (what comes when you buy the TuneRSMotorsports/Pedro deep sump kit) with success on the oil pan of my Boxster when I installed my LN 2 QT deep sump, still going strong with no leaks, easy to apply with the key and the metal toothpaste like tube, and easy to get on Amazon and other places and a lot cheaper than Drei Bond.
DT40 is what I had used before and I will order some more. I just keep a bunch of the Mobil 1 0w-40 on hand for my E36M3's that both have seen some track time.
Victor Reinz make good products in my experience and their silicone sealer also worked well for me.
The other problem is removing
ALL
the old silicone and making the bead 3mm continuous in the very cramped space around Bank 1 on a Boxster.
If ting bits of old silicone drop in the oilways ,they can plug them ! In theory you can use WD-40 for the stubborn bits.
In theory Loctite 518 is an easier to use alternative. Jake uses it. Using it on a vertical surface may cause it to sag ?? 5900 is so thick ,it will not sag.
Really this silicone method is not very old car-friendly. A good composite gasket would be so much easier !
The hot water soak is a good suggestion Steve. I found this
tool for 5900
but have never used it. Useful ?
Amazon
Amazon
or this :
Amazon
Amazon
The mythical official Loctite tool is too large to use with the engine in the car.It would be O.K. on the sump.
https://equipment.loctite.com/produc...eze-Dispenser/
I sell dental supplies for a living and many base/catalyst materials are easily expressed through a gun with a mixing tip. Seems like this is an application that would be ideal for dispensing a sealant.
I thought I'd add to this as I have recently dealt with a nagging leak.
HandsomeRob described his leak on the drivers side. I assume he is in the US with a left hand drive car. But if he is in European country with a right hand drive then my scenario may apply here. I'm in the USA with a left hand drive. My leak was on my passenger side.
My leak appeared to have been coming from the the threads and sealing washer on the oil pressure sender. The oil would follow exactly along the valve cover to head mating surface and form as a hanging drop/drip on one of the lower tabs for one of the valve cover bolts.
Since cleaning everything up and replacing the sender, I've seen no sign of it returning.
Mine's dripping a couple of table spoons and seems to be spraying towards the rear on the passenger side. Then there's the driver side, pooling on top near the #3 fuel injector and running down the rear of the head and dripping onto my header...
Having a hell of a time pinpointing these two leaks between all the plumbing and wires. Lowering my motor tomorrow.
Need Help: I have a 2000 Porsche 911 Cab and have a small leak on the drivers side. If only leaks after driving, if does not leak when the engineer is cold. I removes the heat shield and took these pictures. Do y'all think its the spark plugs tubs, valve cover or something else?
Suggest you "Search" for spark plug tube removal tools. It will show some diy tools.The best are the bolt and washer designs but be careful and only buy good quality replacement parts.Cheapo ones leak/crack !The problem is access !
Don't bother doing the tubes until you have confirmed the valve cover is not leaking.If you need to reseal the valve cover you need to remove it to clean and prep.
Access is the problem.
Suggest you degrease the area and then run the engine briefly to inspect for the source of the leak.
For the trouble involved, why not let it leak -it seems a small leak ?
Take a look at the VarioCam seal. I had the same thing near my #4 cylinder and I replaced the cover (something like a $20 part) before I shipped the car off to Jake. It stopped that leak.
"Originally Posted by 808Bill
View Post
Mine's dripping a couple of table spoons and seems to be spraying towards the rear on the passenger side. Then there's the driver side, pooling on top near the #3 fuel injector and running down the rear of the head and dripping onto my header...
Having a hell of a time pinpointing these two leaks between all the plumbing and wires. Lowering my motor tomorrow."
That sounds like it could be the tube that runs from the passenger side of the motor (check valve on M96.01/04 regular fitting on M96.02/03) to the AOS - this is a hard line that's been known to crack on the early motors and a softer corrugated line on the later motors that may considered a delicacy by rats/mice and/or snails...
Update!
With the help of Jake Raby and Porshtec3, the culprit was a failing/failed AOS causing high crankcase pressure that forced oil from the driver side cam cover on top and the cam bore plug on the left.
New AOS cured this and not a drop of oil since.
Thanks for the help: I will check out VarioCam seal and the oil line. The car has a new AOS. Can you remove the heat shield and clean the valve cover/motor and start the motor with the heat shield off and look to see the leak. Now long can you run the motor with no heat shield?
Yes, that's the only way. You can leave the heat shield off for days but I'd not recommend it for to long. It's easy to take on and off. Clean the area reall good and start it. You might have to take a short drive. Good luck!
New AOS have been known to be bad right out of the box. Get it tested ASAP!
I'm pretty sure that Jake will only install a factory AOS since it is an emissions device, which I completely understand.
After you get the motor, you could then install the UAOS yourself.
I'd be interested in his thoughts about the UAOS.
Porsche Tech 3 sent me a unit. It was one of his earlier ones, and we have discussed this. Corona got in the way of my plans to go further with him, and some other potential opportunities
I require that the engine see a genuine Porsche AOS, and I do not allow any alteration to an engine until the warranty period is up. My engine is covered in anti- sabotage torque stripe, and lead seals. Its common practice in the dishonest world we live in today, and we have to do this to the good guys, too.
I would need to gather a ton of data from the unit to consider using them, the vacuum readings effect enrichment, and as displacement, and vacuum increase together, the effects are much different than stock.
Not to say that I am for it, or against it, but on my engines its currently a question mark, and I don't deal with those. The UAOS was well made, and is impressive in a cursory look. I'd need to do back to back comparisons on the engine dyno to see what happens, one way, or the other. That takes days, and the dyno stays tied up.
Thanks for your opinion!
I understand the anti-tampering precautions.
I had someone bring back a Jetta once with a bad starter about 6 months after I had replaced it.
I replaced it under warranty, but one of the bolts was cross threaded when I removed it, which I know I didn�t do when I first replaced it.
I knew they had 2 Jettas.
Hmmmmm...
After that I started using Torque Seal.
I still use it.
Update: I had my independent Porsche mechanic install new spark plug tubes on the left side and the oil seek stoped. It cost $300 for one side (3 tubes)
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