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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSheared lower idler pulley bolt
Leading reported evidence
Use almost the same
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Use almost the same' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace bolt' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I first used the drill bit with the right angle adapter.
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Suggestion
3) Raise the chuck and replace the bolt with a small drill bit;
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Suggestion
Had a mechanic friend come over and we got extremely lucky: using a brass hammer and small punch on a little bit of the metal that was protruding, he was able to get it out in about five minutes.
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Saw a few of these posts without much follow-up. First things first, shearing the bolt was my fault. No prior owner, it didnt happen while running etc. I misread the tq as both upper and lower get 34 ft lbs. Not sure the correct answer. Maybe different years used different lower pulleys/bolts. Appears my upper pulley bolt is larger M10 than the lower pulley bolt M8x60 and should have been torqued to 17 ft lbs. Anyhow, that out of the way:
Replacing the pulleys was the last part of the waterpump thermostat job I was doing. Whoops. Had the tq wrench set to 34 ft lbs. Started to get snug and the next turn I expected a click and got a pop. As soon as it happened I thought. . . well. . . NSFW thoughts and words.
It was sub flush. I thought I took a pic but it looked about one thread turn below flush. Nothing was sticking out. At first I went to get more tools. Then I thought better and cleaned up for the night. I didnt want to make any rash decisions. I hit the internet.
I read various threads. Seems to be a problem on 996 and 997 cars. Most said they snapped while driving. Replies mostly said a previous owner overtorqued the bolt and the fatigue causing it to break. Nobody really talked or showed how they got the bolt out. One poster said he got a screwdriver to catch and turn it out easily. Next day I tried that, nope. No such luck. One poster said it cost $1k at a local indy.
Had to work a few days so I had time to think and plan. I decided a step wise plan of action.
Not much room to work with. About 5.5 inches to the structural support. Couldnt get much striaght on the issue. Decided Id start with an extractor kit, a right angle drill adapter, drill bit, tap driver kit. Total cost was about $75 at Lowes and Home depot.
I first used the drill bit with the right angle adapter. The size of the bit is in the pics. This part required some bravery as I was going to drill into the center of the bolt without a jig and only eyeballing the center. I couldnt get a center punch and hammer there. Tried different angles with the drill finally settling on about an 11 o'clock position left hand on the drill and right hand on the 90 degree head. Added some PB Blaster and very slowly, as slow as I could manage, went to work. At first drill kept wanting to move/walk. Kept just stopping, restart back in the center. Eventually it started cutting into the screw. Surprisingly it went into the bolt without much effort. Not quickly, just didnt require as much force as I thought it would. Added a dab of oil and cleaned out the shavings every few minutes.
The bit is a combo drill/tapping bit and about half the diameter of the factory bolt. The first 1/4 inch is drill, next half inch tap. Eventually I drilled into to the tap threads and stopped.
I then used the EX-2 extractor. I was able to use a regular hammer turned sideways to tap into the hole in the bolt. It still didnt want to catch real well. Kept trial and error and finally, eventually, got a half turn on the threads and the threaads were just above flush. I cant express how relieving it was to see the bolt turn even a quarter turn. Like watching hope.
From there the extractor wouldnt hold anymore. Switched to a small flat blade screw driver which would occasionally catch and give me 1/4 turn. Tapped on it with the hammer turned sideways. Kept working it extractor, screw driver, even running the drill in reverse. Eventually had enough to get a small set of vice grips on it and finish the job. Took 1.5 hours to get to this point.
Bolt out, figured the threads would be damaged but surprisingly a thread chaser (m8) went in without issue using just my fingers and some oil. Ran it a few times to get all the shavings out. Total time not including the Lowes run - 2 hours.
Local dealer will have the bolt here tomorrow. Guessing I will pay a serious Porsche tax for that bolt.
Good luck if anyone has the same oh-**** moment.
Awesome job! If you have to drill where you can't get a center punch, you may want to look at picking up an automatic center punch:
https://amzn.to/2YBWqRD
This eliminates the need for a hammer; it has a built in mechanism that relies on a spring to put your center mark on the part.
Didnt take much but a few pics and writing it up. Over a couple days i couldn't find a write up about how anyone actually fixed it so thought i would shoot some pics.
Figured id take some pics and explain so the next person at least has some idea how somebody else went about it.
Had a mechanic friend come over and we got extremely lucky: using a brass hammer and small punch on a little bit of the metal that was protruding, he was able to get it out in about five minutes.
He thought for sure we were going to have to do the method above, but we managed to dodge that bullet.
Before this thread closes, wanted to add a tip for removing bolts that break off below the surface. It only requires a drill press and small vise that mounts on the table.
1) Chuck up a short bolt of the same size as the broken one, but shorter;
2) Raise the vice mounted to the table of the drill press and position it with the vise firmly gripping the bolt;
3) Raise the chuck and replace the bolt with a small drill bit;
4) You can now drill a centered hole through the bolt that will serve as a boring bushing;
5) Place that in the hole and drill into the broken bolt to the appropriate depth.
It necessary, you can make a progressively larger hole in the broken bolt, the (last one in particular) with a left hand bit the diameter of the bolt, minus the threads. The threads will generally then come out easily.
Man, I have exactly the same problem and same cause (I torqued it to 33ft pound) (!@#$% !@#@$%) lots os swear words followed. I am going to follow your post but will get myself an automatic centre punch. Will let you know how I go
Where did you buy that? I did a quick search on amazon and google and only find a you tube video. I would like to add that to my arsenal of extractor options.
Sucks. Happened to me too a few months back. I posted in one of the 996 FB groups, and I think someone even linked this thread in that discussion. I had already removed the broken bits of the bolt with essentially the same method of this thread. I had all the necessary tools and bolt extractor in my van so it wasn't too bad, but it definitely pisses you off when it snaps and makes you instantly nervous as well as nervous throughout the removal. That said, there is plenty of room with a right angle drill and taking your time is pretty easy to do.
Glad it helped. I couldnt find many walk throughs when it happened to me. Guessing people shat themselves immediately and hire out or just take care of it without thinking about pics and such.
Had exactly the same problem, this is what I used to get the bolt out, having the right tools really helps. Ryobi Impact drill, Dewalt 90 degree drill attachment with flex shaft (makes it easy to be able to drill the bolt in the very cramped space) 2.5mm and 4mm Hex Shank drill bits, Sutton No 3 easy out bit, automatic centre punch, an absolute necessity to get the drill started in the middle of the bolt and a tap bit wrench, which I jsut attached to the end of the Sutton easy out and it made it easy to get the bolt out (only $10 on amazon, not great quality but I will only use it the once (hopefully)). With the right tools this wasn�t that hard, although I must admit to being very nervous while drilling into the bolt and I really took my time and made sure I wasn�t drilling into the block at all.
