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YOUR RESEARCHTime for ECU Tune?
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Install backwards
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11 pulls and the guy had it running nicely, but then the clutch went out because of a washer that was installed backwards on the throwout bearing.
Leading evidence: 'Install backwards' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I ended up replacing the OEM cats with the SpeedTech 200 Cell X-pipe cats.
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I'm using the Revo tune but I agree with Jake...find a local P-Car specialist and work with what they can dyno tune for you.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Jake I did disconnect the battery for about an hour to reset the ECU to facilitate adaptation to the new cats.
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Suggestion
Disconnecting for an hour won't do it..find someone with an Autologic or PIWIS.
Run their tune and they are always working closely
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Suggestion
They've been in the business one of the longest, has great communication/support, it's DIY at the comfort of your home withouth having to remove and ship ecu, you can return it to stock map whenever you want, you can run basic version of Durametric off their cable, and most importantly, a lot of race cars(aka Pirelli cup, Grand Am, SCCA, etc) run their tune and they are always working closely with teams to further R&D.
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Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I was at the track a few weekends back and my right cat developed a noticeable rattle. I ended up replacing the OEM cats with the SpeedTech 200 Cell X-pipe cats. They nicely compliment my Fabspeed MaxFlow exhaust and FabSpeed CF Comp intake. The car sounds amazing and really pulls over 4K. That said, I'm not super happy with the throttle response, especially below 4K. Now that the car is breathing better, I would think a ECU flash would be a logical next step in maximizing / complementing these mods. I've searched and everything seems to be as clear as mud on the benefit of an ECU tune and which one would be the best for my application. Anyone here with similar exhaust / intake mods that has also flashed their ECU? Did it make a noticeable improvement in throttle response? Which tune did you settle on?
Evomsit
VRTuned
Softronic
GIAC
ECU Tuning Group
Other
I was suggested to go with VR Tuned... from what my car did on her base line run recently I am inclined to do so in the future...
http://www.vrtuned.com/shop/ecu-tuni...meoek5r2crn294
Comes in a nice little kit to use... $700
Good question, no recent feedback on ecu tunes. Considering you have fabspeed components why not ask them who should tune. Not happy
with low rpm response below4k is typical of our flat 6 engines, above is where magic happens. My 200 cel cats have made me add a little more throttle leaving in 1st but after that no issue. Not sure how far you want to go to have tq in lower rpm but regearing will do it.
Have you performed a handover since these items were installed? The adaptive needs to be cleared after these items are changed.
That said, don't settle for a generic tune. I see nothing but problems for these, as the "tuners" generally don't understand how an engine even works.
Find someone local with a chassis dyno, that can do live tuning, not generic file sending, hoping the changes will optimize your engine. I am dealing with one of these problem children now, and I've been working on the tune for a week, and still can't nail it.
Jake I did disconnect the battery for about an hour to reset the ECU to facilitate adaptation to the new cats. I'll certainly look into having a dyno live tunning. I'm in Savannah. Do you have any recommendations?
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Disconnecting for an hour won't do it..find someone with an Autologic or PIWIS.
Or do a hard reset, which I don't prefer as much.
I don't know of any live tuners in savannah, but someone has to have the capability.
I'm gonna offer up my $.02 and say Softronic. They've been in the business one of the longest, has great communication/support, it's DIY at the comfort of your home withouth having to remove and ship ecu, you can return it to stock map whenever you want, you can run basic version of Durametric off their cable, and most importantly, a lot of race cars(aka Pirelli cup, Grand Am, SCCA, etc) run their tune and they are always working closely with teams to further R&D.
Btw, I'm in no way affiliated with them.
I would suggest looking into them closely before giving them your money. I haven't used them so have no direct knowledge, but I did some research awhile back when I got into it with them on another board about a piggyback solution they are reselling for a different car. There seem to be more than a few unhappy customers and they (VR) don't seem to take kindly to having their products questioned.
Personally I prefer to work with people that are willing to take the time explain their product (sans the proprietary details of course) and my limited interaction with VR and research on them doesn't indicate they are someone I'd like doing business with.
YMMV though so all I'm suggesting is that you make sure you are well informed first.
Vivid Racing's latest joint partnership/venture was with Softronics to launch their "VR tuned" series. That has since ended for one reason or another. I won't speculate but can guess it wasn't on favorable terms.
So basically what you are probably getting with VR tuned are the Softronics maps without the Softronics support in case you decide to change something in the future.
You can formulate your own conclusions from there...
Joe can you elaborate?
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I had a baseline pull done on my car to see what she was doing and was mildly surprised... I have an air intake system, headers, no cats crossover pipes, and B&B mufflers. She put down 303 hp to the ground and I can't remember the torque number. She was dropping off early on the power... someplace around 6500/6750 but pulled strong overall.
It was plain to see on the graph that she could use some more "umph in the midrange and some more fuel in the upper revs.
She would defined benefit for a little cpu magic!
I will try to scan the dyno sheet tomorrow at work and post it for you.
FVD has what you need. They only do Porsches. I'm having a modified file sent to me given my existing list of mods and am doing runs on a dynapack chassis dyno and sharing these results with FVD so they can look at AF ratio and power number for further tweaks if required.
She's a 2001 3.4 no tune... that's why I think I can squeeze some more out of the midrange and keep her pulling closer to the rev limiter... I will post the dyno sheet tomorrow when I'm able to scan and post it!
This is something that I have been thinking about also. I love my car, but it is a little lethargic off the line and I would prefer a little pickup off the line
With the aftermarket upgrades that I have into my car, I suspect that if tuned correctly, it should increase the performance. Anything around SoCal
Genereic tuning doesn't seem the best since each car has different upgrades
The 3.4 typically starts losing power beyond 6500 rpm. I always shift at 6500 when tracking to maximize power under the curve. The gear ratios are fairly tall and this works. You don't. Red to redline your engine in 3rd 4th and 5th as if you do you will miss out on the meaty torque curve by shifting @ 6500
Redlining in 2nd is ok as the gear drop takes you to 4k rpm where you are making good power.
I have Evomsit installed in my 2004 C2 engine that is completely stock. I do not see any improvement after the ECU tuning when compared to factory settings. What I actually experience is a loss in torque at low rpm and significantly worse mpg with the tuning. Mpg was 17/22 before and is 14/17 (city/highway) after tuning. Worst $$$ spent ever on my car.
Ok, that makes more sense. 303 is with wheel correction factor meaning flywheel hp. Your whp seems to be 268whp which still seems very good considering it's on a Mustang dyno, which generally reads lower than Dynojet dyno's. You can def notice the torque(or lack of it) from the 3.4 though. I wouldn't be surprised if you can bump this up 5-8whp more with a proper tune.
Did you get a a/f graph printout? This is would be helpful if you plan to do a remote tune like through Softronics.
No, Alpine is correct. This is not wheel HP, it is corrected to flywheel output. The power thats made is what I'd expect from this engine, actually a little less than what I see at the rear wheels stock on my dyno jet chassis dyno.
Having two engine dynes in my lab helps us to see exactly what the losses are through the valve train, with the engine in the chassis, Vs. in the lab, on the engine dyno.
The dyno graph does look correct, especially since I see VVT changeover at 5,200 RPM.
Just stab me Jake... can't you just say it looks curvy, sexy, anything other than less than stock?!
I'll be in the corner crying while you think of something to say...
Nope. We see less than stock output all the time from engines with bolt ons, nothing new there. If you put it back on the dyno and get AFR values, you'll find that its rich from 3.5K all the way to redline, more than likely.
Everyone thinks these engines go lean with bolt ons, but we see the opposite. I have to pull 15-20% fuel from engines in most instances to get to AFR in the 13s @ WOT.
Remember, cats impact the tailpipe AFR a bit, too..
I can tell its rich by where the peak torque is (at VVT changeover) and how and when the torque falls off in the top end.
Having a "maximum power or torque" number on a dyno graph is one thing, but having drivability and good torque numbers on the low end is another. My 951 has higher numbers than your car by a little bit, but the drivability at the low end was for *hit.
I then tuned it myself at low throttle applications to remove the dead bands (it was too lean) and fix other areas that were too rich. OMG, what a difference!
I have a wide band on the car, so I can drive it around in Chicagoland traffic and tune it on the fly!
;-)
I agree. I think all the seasoned guys strive for broadband or "area under the curve" while the newbs or showoffs concentrate on the peak power generally.
However, there comes a point where you do want to dial back some low-midrange if it affects your traction. A recent example is Mercedes SLS Black ed having done just this. But generally anything under 400hp doesn't apply so we don't really have to worry about that.
I agree with all the above statements... I want to be able to pull tree trunks with my 996!
And a nice top number wouldn't hurt either!
Paul: let's talk more about your on the fly tunning and what hardware your working and monitoring with...
Alpine: I don't need to show off with the 996... that's what the Ducati 999 is for!
I have a wideband O2 sensor that is mounted in the exhaust downstream of the turbo, and a piggyback controller to convert the MAF sensor to a usable signal for the DME. It's a split second timer.
I figured out how to use it a few weeks ago, initially I had it tuned at a place that has a dyno....was running SUPER rich and just couldn't go. 11 pulls and the guy had it running nicely, but then the clutch went out because of a washer that was installed backwards on the throwout bearing. 17 hours of my labor later, I turned the washer around and was on the road.
However, it did not perform well at all at low throttle applications, would lean way out, and would idle at a AFR of 10.1. So what do you do? Plug your computer in and figure it out!
Like anything in life, once you get a hang of it, it's easy.
More info here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ifference.html
I would live to see this in person some day... since we're "locals" maybe that can happen?
PS I wonder how to make something like this work on the 996...
