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YOUR RESEARCHSOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
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almost certainly a bad ground connection
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Reported cause
The issue is almost certainly a bad ground connection.
SOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
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Leading evidence: 'almost certainly a bad ground connection' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'almost certainly a bad ground connection' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check /' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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SOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
Replace left rear light bulb not long ago
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have changed the left rear light bulb not long ago, so I will go over that one to.
SOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
ignition switch
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I hope the problem can be traced to a bad ignition switch.
SOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
Check /
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Suggestion
Something else to check/replace might be the ignition switch.
SOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
Disconnect i would have you step
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Suggestion
Normally after the battery is disconnected I would have you step on the brake pedal to remove any residual electrical charge in the car's wiring but in this case I think you should just let the car sit for a while.
SOLVED: Brake light constantly on and the engine does not stop when the brake on
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I have a 1998 996 C2. I had PCM player out of the car. I have PCM without amplification. I had the stereo in/out dismount / mont with the battery connected and ignition on.
I do not know if this work with PCM had something to say, but afterwards arose following error:
When the egnition is on with the headlight switch off, the left front parking light comes on when you step on the brake pedal. When the headlights is switch on both the parkinglights illuminates normal, but the brake lights stays on all the time even if I do not step on the brake pedal. When the car is running and the ignition is turned off while I step on the brake pedal, the enigine dont turn off and gauges in the dashboard dials will not turn off, but the power to the clima system turns off. When I get off the brake pedal, the motor stops and instuments goes out.
Anybody have any experience with this or suggestions on what is wrong / how it is arcing? Is it the ignition or headlight switch who has the error, or somewhere else?
Backtrack all of your work and see if you've connected wires/plugs incorrectly or left any items unconnected.
I am not sure from your post whether you have added or removed anything, but it might be best to completely undo what you've done and go back to stock to see if you have damaged something permanently.
Something else to check/replace might be the ignition switch. These commonly fail and cause a multitude of symptoms. Check the forum for ignition switch replacement threads for more info.
I have only removed the navigation in the mid console so the multi pin connector to the navigation is left unconncted. I cant see why this should affect the brake lighta ande ignition problem.
It is generally not recommended any electrical work be done on the car with the battery connected, much less with the key on.
There is the concern about shorting something, possibly even damaging the DME.
The behavior the car is manifesting rather strange.
I could just offer up that there has been a terrible short or possibly the DME has been damaged and let it go at that.
So I will offer up that there has been a terrible short or possibly the DME has been damaged. But I will not let it go at that.
But I hope I'm wrong.
I hope the problem can be traced to a bad ignition switch.
I know of no way of testing this switch though perhaps a qualified tech knows of a way. Without a way to test it what is left is just replacing it.
There is a bit of concern that whatever is wrong could damage the new switch but only a qualified tech could possibly know if this is possible.
Be sure to check all fuses, too. If you find any blown this could be due to a surge/short.
If this exists where it is is hard to know exactly -- you know what circuit maybe from which fuse was blown -- but you would have to look at all the wiring/connections where you were last working.
Given how tightly packed the dash is, it is possible the dash has to come out to allow you free access to all the wiring.
Dealing with electrical issues is one of the most difficult jobs in automotive repair.
On the outside chance it was not something you did, be sure the cabin floor is dry and check that the DME is also dry. While the symptoms do not appear to be due to a wet security module (which is located on the floor board under the passenger seat) they could be from a DME that somehow got water on it.
A very very long shot is to try this: Following the proper guidelines, disconnect the battery. Just to be safe, I have to say this: Be sure the ignition is off and the key is out of the ignition! Be sure all electrical accessories are off.
Normally after the battery is disconnected I would have you step on the brake pedal to remove any residual electrical charge in the car's wiring but in this case I think you should just let the car sit for a while. An hour is probably ok. Overnight maybe even more ok as this gives the system plenty of time to lose any residual electrical power.
Of course, when it comes time to reconnect the battery you must follow the proper steps.
My thinking is (my hope is) a full power off reset of all the car's electrical systems will help.
I do not think the above though would be advised if you find any fuses blown.
I have had the PCM out and and taken of the original connectors and put them back on. I cant se why there should be a connections betwen the two. I have checked all the fuses and they are okey.
I have ordered new ignition and brake switch, so ill take it from there...
I had exactly the same problem with a Saab a few years ago.
A bulb in one of the taillights had blown and the guy at the auto-parts store offered to replace it for me while I paid for it inside the shop.
When I got home and turned the ignition key off the engine kept running until I took my foot of the brake pedal. ( car had automatic gearbox)
The problem turned out to be that a single fillament bulb had been fitted in a double fillament socket and was making contact with both connectors backfeeding power to the ecu.
DME is Porsche speak for the engine controller unit. It is the brains of the engine and a lot of the car. For instance not only does it determine when to trigger the fuel injector and spark plug spark it also signals when it is time for the spoiler to go up (or down), acquires the raw data that eventually is used to display dash speed, RPMs, coolant temperature, etc.
Whenever a car starts manifesting weird behavior regarding the engine like the engine continuing to run when the key is off or some other odd behavior of the car this comes under suspicion.
There can be other explanations for the odd behavior so these must be eliminated first as to check out the DME requires special know how and tools and extreme care for it can be damaged by improper handling.
The issue is almost certainly a bad ground connection. This bad ground is causing a load to shunt (parallel path) back through the power supply of other loads. This is why other loads are acting funny and the ignition is not turning off because another load continues to power it because it is shunting through its ground connection back to another load.
Look at the wiring diagrams, find the ground connections (normally a stud with brown wires attached to it), especially in the areas where you worked, or if you took any of these off, take it apart, clean it up and re-torque it.
As others have said, it's with something you have done recently. Trace your path and figure it out. If you don't know how to read a wiring diagram or use a multi-meter....well, then you could be stabbing in the dark. But at least you know what you did, take those connections apart and remake them after inspection.
PROBLEM SOLVED!
This was the problem! I had wrong light bulb at the rear left light bulb. I had mounted a singel light bulb, not a double as the specs are. When i changed to the right light bulb everything was OK!
Thank you guys!
