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YOUR RESEARCHTorque wrench recommendations
Leading reported evidence
Use 3/8 drive click type craftsman
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I use a 3/8 drive click type craftsman that goes up to something like 180ft/lbs, then a 1/4 drive click type craftsman that goes up to 240 in/lbs.
Leading evidence: 'Use 3/8 drive click type craftsman' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace clutch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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U did remind me that i do have a 3/4" chinese internet special i use for axle nuts and peterbilt lug nuts.
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Only one 1/2 gearwrench electronic wrench used only for torque angle work (engine assembly)
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Suggestion
I'm a home mechanic, I can do most mechanic work myself, recently taken out the tranny to replace clutch..
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Looking to join the 21st century,what torque wrench is in your tool box?Specifically a 3/8 drive for engine assembly.( I have a 1/2 drive snap on)
Thanking everyone in advance for their responses.
Not all progress is good.
I joined the electronic torque wrench crowd some years ago and went back to mechanical click types. The electronic ones are always 1) easy to break, 2) out of battery power, 3) can't be man-handled in a shop. I now have
Two Snapon balance beam wrenches 3/8 and 1/2
Two Gearwrench click type 1/4 and 3/8
One old 3/4 wrench for up to 600 ft-lbs
One 1/2 snap on permanently set for tires at 80 ft-lbs
Only one 1/2 gearwrench electronic wrench used only for torque angle work (engine assembly)
It's neat to show off the $500 Snap On electronic wrenches but I am perfectly happy with click types that never need battery.
I was an early adopter of digital calipers but the batteries were always crapping out when I reached for it.
currently using 3/8 drive SnapOn which I�ve owned for decades and only shows ft lbs.
And 1/2� drive Scwaban I bought on sale at Pelican that shows ft lbs and newton meters. That one lives in the frunk and goes with me to the track.
I like my digital from harbor freight. I check it periodically against our calibrated torque checker at work and it�s dead on.
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...hoCB5MQAvD_BwE
I use a 3/8 drive click type craftsman that goes up to something like 180ft/lbs, then a 1/4 drive click type craftsman that goes up to 240 in/lbs. Both read newtons as well.
For the axle nuts, I use a 1/2 drive breaker bar, measure out 18 inches, and hang my 200ish pound self off the end until my shoulder joints click 😆
r u torquing miata wheel studs? U should be at 94-96 ft-lbs for the p-car.
U did remind me that i do have a 3/4" chinese internet special i use for axle nuts and peterbilt lug nuts. I figure when u get up to 450 ft-lbs it can be a little off calibration.
I have Matco 3/8" and 1/2" Electronic Digital Torque/Angle wrenches I have had for 2 decades with no problems. IMHO they are mainly for professionals who will use them often, but even at that I always removed the batteries and reinstall them before use..I don't want a failed $2 battery ruining my expensive Torque Wrench..
But I also have the click types as back-up and my 1/4" is the click type, and also some really old beam types..
And I also have manual Angle Gauges I can use with a breaker bar for the Torque+ Angle specs ( I got them before the Electronic Torque/Angle wrenches were common place).
Since the torque spec method is not that accurate anyway ( its only about 35% accurate) the click types are fine IMHO for most anyone...
The Torque+ Angle method is much more accurate ( within about 15% accurate), so the click type+ manual angle gauge is fine if you are mechanically inclined and using those specs..
If you are building a motor you will need to measure torque angles. I really like my Harbor Freight Quinn electronic torque wrench. Worked great for my build.
My favorite is a split beam by Precision Instruments. Good quality, price isn’t outrageous, and don’t have to reset to lowest setting every time. Only negative is won’t work on reverse threaded bolts.
While I think that is quite sexy, and I do own Milwaukee M12 and M18 power tools, I think that torque wrench is massive for what it is and getting it into certain places will be impossible. The Gearwrench manual torque wrench I have is a 120XP model and has a swing of 3 degrees and that is a god send in tight places.
I'm a home mechanic, I can do most mechanic work myself, recently taken out the tranny to replace clutch.. Still waiting for the parts to come before putting back together but the old cheap torque wrench we bought from Princess Auto(Harbor Freight US equivalent), I'm not so sure about its accuracy.
I've been reading a lot on this forum so it seems like preference is as follow:
1. Snap-On
2. Precision Instrusments
3. Kobalt/Husky and other brands that are reasonable priced and reasonably ok.
Snap-On TechAngle seems like the best but it's way out of u budget now, I'm thinking about getting a PI split beam style.
Most of my cars have torque to yield bolts in certain places which require certain angle after the correct torque. The way I've been doing it now is to just use a breaker bar and estimate the angle by looking at the angle. It looks like the TehAngle wrench would be perfect but still to expensive.
My plan is to get a PI and then use the same method for torque to yield or attach one of those angle gauge to it.
Any other recommendations for wrenches that do angle?
Most torque to yield angle specs are pretty loose. You will never find a spec that says "90 degrees +/- 1 degree." The Ferrari 355 torque angle on the head nuts are 60-90 degrees. With those specs, all you need is mark the nut, mark the fixed point, turn it until the two are approximately the right angle. 90 degrees is easy, 60 degrees is easy, 110 is not but you might get close enough.
Even when I use the Gearwrench angle torque wrench, I still mark the fastener as a back up check.
You don't need to buy Snap On. There are other good wrenches that measure angles.
