13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCrank no start 2000 CAB
Leading reported evidence
Repair oxygen sensor wiring
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Repaired oxygen sensor wiring that was chewed up in right rear.
Leading evidence: 'Repair oxygen sensor wiring' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check wires' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Unpinned old harness and used new harness, same code...
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion · Original poster
Now I m up too checking all the wires from the two harness plugs up to the DME for damage and continuity.
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Suggestion
If the code is for the CPS, then check or replace it (again) and check all the wiring.
I understand you replace the CPS, If you don't have access to Durametric, you can eliminate the CPS by cranking the engine and observing the tach and see if it is bouncing the tach needle, if not I would check wiring.
I understand you replace the CPS, If you don't have access to Durametric, you can eliminate the CPS by cranking the engine and observing the tach and see if it is bouncing the tach needle, if not I would check wiring.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I understand you replace the CPS, If you don't have access to Durametric, you can eliminate the CPS by cranking the engine and observing the tach and see if it is bouncing the tach needle, if not I would check wiring.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I picked up this 2000 cab that's been sitting since early 2000. I replaced plugs and coils, fuel filter and fuel pump, and crank position sensor, new battery and fresh fuel. Sent the DME and immobilizer out and they both had no issues. Cranks strong, no start. I've tried starting fluid, no real luck. Out of the blue it will sputter and act like it wants to start, but never really runs. Hooked up Durametric and only code it has it Crank position sensor. if you clear it and crank it it comes right back. So maybe another bad sensor or wiring issue? Any thoughts on Where I should look next.
Seriously? It has been sitting for 22 years? Wow! If the code is for the CPS, then check or replace it (again) and check all the wiring. 22 years is a long time to sit.....
Use your durametric to watch engine RPM. Then crank it with the starter. The engine RPM should show more than 0. I bet the engine RPM will continue to show 0 while cranking. That means either the crank sensor is bad or there is a wiring problem. Look for mouse eaten wires in the engine compartment.
Update,
Replaced crank sensor again. Same code. Used a good donor harness and pulled the crank sensor wiring out of harness. Unpinned old harness and used new harness, same code... crank sensor. RPM needle is bouncing on tack when you crank it. Repaired oxygen sensor wiring that was chewed up in right rear. Going to recheck all the fuses and relays. About to light this project on fire and move on.
I'm In upstate NY. After digging into this cars cluttered past. it looks the car was running last summer according to auction footage photos. For now I'll keep pushing forward and do more wire testing.
I was thinking possibly the same thing, but the car was running fine in the auction listing. Then just sat at a Body shop in NYC I'm still leaning toward a broken wire or rodent chewed between the engine harness and DME.
I understand you replace the CPS, If you don't have access to Durametric, you can eliminate the CPS by cranking the engine and observing the tach and see if it is bouncing the tach needle, if not I would check wiring.
Yes I Have a Durametric Professional. If you watch RPM'S the needle does move a little, but if you watch live data in Durametric it shows zero. I have pulled the crank sensor wiring out of a spare harness i have and repinned it back into the engine harness. Same issue. Now I m up too checking all the wires from the two harness plugs up to the DME for damage and continuity.
