P1325 Camshaft Angle Issue

I have a 996 that just had the engine gone thru and new IMS, cam tensioners etc. The engine was put back together using all of the Porsche cam positioners. After 20 miles or so a CEL came on. Checking it the code is P1325 (Camshaft adjustment Bank 1). After using a Durametric, the following data is obtained as the engine warms. At startup RMP 1137, both cam deviations are 0, Actual Camshaft angle Bank 1 -13.70 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 2 +0.11 Warmed RPM 828, Both deviations 0 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 1 -13.14 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 2 +0.0 RPM 2076, both cam deviations are 0 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 1 11.52 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 2 24.08 RPM 2374, both deviations 0 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 1 11.23 Actual Camshaft Angle Bank 2 24.5 Basded on the new tensioner pads and the deviation at zero that looks good. What I don't understand is the 13 degree difference between the camshaft angle between bank 1 and 2 given the cams were locked with the Porsche cam tool (and motor was turned 360 between banks) during assembly. Can someone explain what the probable cause is and how to fix it? This is a 2000 911 with a 5 chain motor.

Maybe the gear under the scavange pumps have slipped. If they rotated on the slots it could throw off the angles

Based on how many degrees you are out of time, I would expect that on one bank you are one chain link off on the camshaft allocation. This can happen during assembly if you get the links/ plate count confused.

Jake: thanks for for the reply. Could it also be what the prior person suggested where it can be corrected at the gear behind the scavenge pump? We certainly don’t want to tear one side down and find it was not necessary. Also, the car runs great, is there any danger in driving it while we get ready to fix it? thanks in advance.

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Keep in mind that if the gear slips that it will effect the cam timing on both cams. If the number of links is improper, and allocation is off, you will only see an issue with intake cam timing, as long as the exhaust cam was timed properly. The only cam that has a sensor is the intake cam, so you can't see the positioning of the exhaust cam without checking the cam timing mechanically. No, the car should not be driven with these codes. Doing so creates over- enrichment and poor combustion balance, leading to rich running, which laces the oil with fuel, washes down cylinder walls, and starts a downward spiral. The issue needs to be properly diagnosed, and addressed.

I think u r gonna have to pull the cam plugs and the scavange pump (4 bolts). This way u can verfy the cams r in the correct position. With the exhaust cam locked the opposite side of the intake cam has a knotch. That knotch should face toward the cam cover for 1-3 and toward pistons for 4-6 when checking. That knotch should be 90* of the locked cam slot. This is a visual check u can do while engine is in the car. jakes suggestion really makes sense though. Sounds like the # if links between dots is not right on the variocam chain. If u count the link void where the gear tooth for the intake gear chain with the dot is as "0" the gear tooth with the exhaust cam dot will hit void "14". Looking at the knotch orientation will tell u if the chain links r off. u will have to pull the cam cover to this. if u zoom in u can see the dots

The key is using the discolored links from the original chain, as your guide, then marking the replacements the same. When properly allocated the "dots" on each cam drive sprocket will align on the chain link plate that is discolored.

Unfortunately for me the chain that was in my motor only had 1 discolored link, i counted twice, had a friend count twice and then took a pic jic.

I assuming this is a 5 chain engine as the OP didn't specify? I was trying to think through this, if he was a link off, wouldn't his Camshaft position be off? Or maybe to have the OP clarify, when you say the "cam deviations are 0", you are talking about the line on the durametric for "Camshaft Position 1 deviation"? An then for your 13 number is the line "Actual angle for inlet camshaft bank 1"? I find it odd that both Camshaft Position Deviations are exactly 0. Or maybe i'm just completely misreading this whole thread.

If you pull the green plugs out and put the cam timing tool on , you may be able to work out of your off a tooth on the vario chain by the position of the notch on the inlet cam at the other end next to the scavenge pump, if someone has a good photo of the correct position, at least you will know if you need to get the cover of for definite !

photo934.jpg

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Just for my own interest as I have the 5 chain motor and removing heads is at the limit of my ability should I need to change out the pads some day, are these 28 teeth sprockets so 360/28 equals approximately 13 degrees for each link off?

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Appears to be 23 links based on this pic from FCP Euro. So more like 15.6 degrees per link.

I did notice when i ran my numbers tonight i had a high bank1 actual cam angle # around 7 and as it warmed that number shifted to the cam deviation. U may have to run the motor a little bit more so the dme wil calculate the deviations??? Cant comment if u should run the motor with the angle that far off.

Jake: thanks again from your insight and work on countless M96 engines and others. It was suggested by an off list message that the Durametric is actually incorrect on the bank numbers with this code. We really don�t want to tear down the good side in the process. Is there any simple way to confirm the bank with the chain installed improperly? Yes, this is a 5 chain engine. Isn�t it the exhaust cam cam that is accessible behind the scavenge pump and the true issue is that the intake cam is off? How does this happen when using the cam alignment tool during assembly? Would that tool still fit? just trying to understand the root cause.

Yes. On Durametric the values graphed were Bank 1 and 2 Camshaft Deviations and Bank 1 and 2 Actual Camshaft Angle.

If the small chain between the exhsust and intake cam is a tooth off it will cause the deviations to be off. U do not time the intake cam, it follows thr exhaust cam via the chain. Its already been explained to u above on how to visually check the intake cam. lock cam at top dead center for that side and read the knotch position on the intake cam above the scavange pump

If Durametric is believed to be inverting the banks, just unplug something on B1 and see if a code is thrown for B1, or B2.. It is time to take things apart once you verify which bank has the issue. Listening to people isn't going to help you. Pull it apart, attack the problem, and stop the questioning.