38 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAdvice Needed (Warning, IMS acronym used!)
Reported or suspected cause
dealer
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Leading evidence: 'dealer' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'dealer' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clogged cats is no included' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Kind of wish i checked the vacuum before i took it apart, oh well.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I bought the new one before i learned that they changed the design of it slightly for the later models, and that the two bolts that hold it in place are not where they used to be, and to access the second one was next to impossible.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I bought the new one before i learned that they changed the design of it slightly for the later models, and that the two bolts that hold it in place are not where they used to be, and to access the second one was next to impossible.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
38 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
My plan didn't work, i spent an hour trying to put the new AOS in and got nowhere, so i decided to go from the front.
I am about to replace my IMS with an LN Engineering unit. I got this far but i have a question as far as the three chain tensioners.
Engine locked at TDC
Camshafts in bank 4-6 (passenger side) locked on the flywheel side.
Noted and marked where the camshafts are at on 1-3 side.
Looks like there is some seepage around the IMS but nothing really serious. RMS seams to be OK, although i will replace it as well.
My question is in regards to chain tensioners. Both Bently and Pelican book say to remove all three. I am not sure that is necessary, and i can't seem to find the thread but i believe even Jake saying that removing the one on the 4-6 bank does not make any difference as it is on the opposite side of the intermediate shaft. It's right below the ac compressor on the belt side which i would have to remove to get to the tensioner. So if somebody that has done it already can confirm that indeed only the IMS and 1-3 bank chain tensioners, both on the flywheel side, should be removed it would be appreciated. Thanks!
P.S: It's a 2004, three chain car. Oil is drained and filter inspected, clean as a whistle. Nothing on the magnetic plug either.
Wait. I have not done this but my understanding is you should lock the bank 1 cams and not bank 2 as shown in your photo. I could be wrong but please make sure.
http://europeanpartssolution.com/wp-...structions.pdf
Same principles for IMSB removal. Also supports locking bank 1 cams (driver side) and there is no need to remove the bank 2 tensioner below the a/c compressor.
Thanks Ashai, i think you are absolutely right. I misread the LN instructions completely for that step. It makes sense to lock the cams where you are removing the tensioner on i guess.
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
Well locked the right bank this time, had to spin the engine 360 deg.
Removed to two tensioners on the flywheel side.
Cleaned up the are a bit.
Got the IMS flange off. And took the bearing out.
I expected some oil to come out of the tube but not as much as i saw. There was quite a bit. Bearing seemed in fairly good shape.
After i took the sides off i realized that the bearing was full of old oil, there didn't seem to be any play in it. A washed it all out, and the guides seem to be in perfect order.
I think the bearing would've been fine for some time to come, but i am glad i am doing it right now. The car has about 35,000 miles.
Nice photos. Another perfect bearing bite the dust
Seriously though you can now sleep better at night. Are you putting in the regular LN single row or the pro double row version?
Going with the LN Retrofit, plain single row. I've had it sitting in my garage for over two years, and just didn't want to live through the irony of my engine detonating while i've had the bearing this whole time
Also i wanted to have a look at the flywheel as it was diagnosed by the dealer to be the cause of my rough startups (if you remember). I took it out, you can see it on one of the pictures. The disk surface has seen better days, but i am not sure if theres anything wrong with mechanical internals of it, based on the twist test. I do still need to make sure that that crank angle/flywheel sensor that counts the teeth is working good as well. Winter here is still far from over so i got all the time in the world still
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
Wasn't lazy, went ahead and changed my RMS today. Used the Bently video instruction, worked well but it wasn't as easy as i thought it would be to get it out. The new one went in pretty easy using that contraption i borrowed from a friend, that he also used and assured me works well. I hope it went in straight. There is only one ****ty way to find out if it didn't. I also cleaned up the IMS tube and the flange area, so i can try and bang the new LN IMS in tomorrow. It's in the freezer tonight.
I only removed the driver side tensioner, per DoF instructions. I seem to have had no issues. Be careful installing the RMS with the homemade PVC tool - you can quite easily drive the seal all the way through and off the end of the crankshaft sealing surface.
Ya it's very easy to push it in further than required. Of corse i found the spec the day after i put mine in. The new 997 RMS needs to be 13mm in from the face of the crankshaft. Surface where the DMF bolts onto. I measured mine to be a little further in, and pretty uneven, so i am gonna have to fix that.
In the mean time, LN IMS, and the snap ring are in. It's pretty tight, even after sitting in the freezer over night, but it's in.
Thanks Barn996.
As far as the sealant, it was the dealer. Before i picked up the car they realized that the RMS was leaking on it, and wouldn't let me pick it up like that. So while they were in there i told them to check the shape the IMS was in. Guessing when they put the IMS flange back on, is when they put some of that black sealant there.
Went ahead and took the AOS out. I bought the new one before i learned that they changed the design of it slightly for the later models, and that the two bolts that hold it in place are not where they used to be, and to access the second one was next to impossible. This is was an enormous pain in the ***! My creativity in using different ratchets, sockets, adapters peaked at one point, wish i took a picture of it. Next to the issue of the bolt being inaccessible, there was the issue of the hoses being too short, and the clamps being turned the wrong way. My suggestion, for the later model year cars, go from the other side. I don't think that way is any less time consuming, and that you are going to like it, but these things were simply not meant to be accessed from this side.
I guess you missed my AOS MkII writeup. You need to work from the bottom and from above. Major PITA but I was able to do it in 4hrs the second time (the new one I put in last time lasted only 1,000 miles).
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...i-aos-diy.html
No, actually had it printed out (in colour)
That's where i was starting to realize that I am not gonna enjoy this. You had a picture in yours, and when i first saw the configuration of the new bolts, it was apparent that accessing the second one from the flywheel side will suck. You went from the other side of the engine so there was only a few steps we had in common.
Disappointing to hear that the new unit went out that quick! What was the model number on the new one? The one i took out ended in 026.50. The new one is 026.51. They must have changed something inside.
Ah, gotcha. Actually, I accessed the rear AOS bolt (closer to rear of the car) from the flywheel side w/o removing the transmission of course. Yes, it sucked and it's very tight but still doable. Not a chance if you have big hands though.
I knew my previous AOS was bad off the bet once I installed it and put a digital manometer on the crankcase. It measured 10" water (normal should be 4~5" water). That's after all the labor I put in to replace it as a PM item. My old one was fine! I should have followed "If it ain't broken..." Anyway, driving more hoping that it may be a fluke but no, it got worse and last week it was 24" water so I decided to swap a new one in. It still puzzles me why it was bad out of the box.
Oh yea, the bad AOS ends with 026.51 as well.
BTW, I also managed to remove that rear AOS bolt from the top with extensions like you did but I can't think of a good way to install that bolt from the top though. What's your plan for it?
No plan at the moment, cheers me up a bit that it has been done, by a member before. The only thing that cheers me up about it
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...che-996-a.html
Ashai,
Great comments and I love all the 'while you are in there' details.
You mention measuring the vacuum at 10" of water for the AOS function test. Did you use the "slack tube manometer" or an electronic tool ?
I used a digital manometer. I also used a slack tube to sanity check my digital meter....kinda belt and suspender guy
The photos show "before" and "after".
The crankcase vacuum actually shot up to 25" water recently so I decided to swap it out.
0218151855a.jpg
0314151858.jpg
Ashai,
Thanks for the excellent info.on the Pyle PDMM01
Here is a link for anyone needing this instrument:
PYLE Meters PDMM01 Digital Manometer with 11 Units of Measure - - Amazon.com
PYLE Meters PDMM01 Digital Manometer with 11 Units of Measure - - Amazon.com
This looks much more convenient that the often mentioned "slack tube manometer". Pity it is such a specialized instrument with limited application to AOS diagnosis.
Yea, agree it's quite specialized and I'm yet to come up with another usage. $48 not too bad for a precision instrument though. Definitely can't beat the convenience! I must say I'm quite impressed by its accuracy (verified by using water in slack tube).
Damn you, now I gotta spend more money. This one is a STEAL for a digital compared to others out there. Thanks for the reco.
As for specialized, you do know you can use this to measure pressure differences for various mods, right? Just one more use if you want to justify any of your engine mods to be more than cosmetic.
My plan didn't work, i spent an hour trying to put the new AOS in and got nowhere, so i decided to go from the front. I took my left intake out. Is this amount of oil normal to be in and around these intake ports? Seems a little too much. Intake was laced with a light oily film, but hardened. Maybe my AOS was bad?
Yours does look like a little more oily than normal but I'm not convinced that your AOS is bad because oil coating is normal, just a matter of how much. You will know if your new AOS is good if you use a manometer to measure the crankcase vacuum.
I agree AOS is probably the only oil path for the intake. However, Porsche allow maximum normal oil consumption of 1L/600 miles which includes oil that gets sucked into the intake (via the AOS) and oil that sneaks pass the oil rings of the pistons. It's hard to judge from the photo what is normal.
I see. Since i switched to Motul 5W40 i have hardly ever had to add any amount. Definitely less than 1L/600km, and i check the level regularly. Kind of wish i checked the vacuum before i took it apart, oh well. Thanks.
(
)
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
