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YOUR RESEARCHReplace entire control arm or just bushing.
Leading reported evidence
Install from manufacturers so it's easy
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There's another company in Uk called spider performance selling coffin arms with the poly flex bush , standard bush isn't fitted from manufacturers so it's easy to just put the poly bush straight in !
Leading evidence: 'Install from manufacturers so it's easy' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install from manufacturers so it's easy' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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When you replaced with new control arms for Meyle units, did you replace hardware like new bolts and nuts as well or did you reuse the old ones.
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When I did mine, I just reused my old bolts, but I used Loctite thread locker.
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Suggestion
It worked out for her, but I think I'll use the recommended pickle fork when I do this job.
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Install from manufacturers so it's easy
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
There's another company in Uk called spider performance selling coffin arms with the poly flex bush , standard bush isn't fitted from manufacturers so it's easy to just put the poly bush straight in !
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Suggestion
Here's a recent cost summary/ guide as of 11/17/ 2009 for those interested in replacing their lower control arms with a bad central bushing as seen in this video:
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27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
It worked out for her, but I think I'll use the recommended pickle fork when I do this job.
My 2002 Targa needs a new lower front control arm. Pelican lists this part for $418. Isn't it possible to just replace the bushings? I don't see any part numbers for the bushings alone.
There are actually two parts that are commonly called "control arms"... Neither of them cost $418 (some of Pelican's prices are just silly) look here
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=401-00
The part (#6) called a "wishbone" in the illustration is sometimes called a "lower control arm" or "coffin arm". It also could be #3 you're talking about...In either case, there are much more reasonably priced options... ** I just re-read your post. The most common failure of the "lower control arm" is the ball joint. The ball joints in the stock arms are not replaceable. There is an arm (remanufactured) from EPS that has a replaceable ball joint - they sell for about $150 and you have to send your "core" back to them...Good Luck
I got a pair on control arms on Rock Auto for $150 (pair not each). I forget the exact price, it was low. Do a search within this forum, I think I posted it in two threads.
Well, I went ahead and bought Meyle/ OEM style parts. I suppose I could have pressed just the bushings out, but the ball joints have 60,000+ miles on them, and I�m sure they will likely fail in the next 20 to 30k miles. It doesn�t make much sense to install new bushings on old ball joints. I also figured if the front LCA bushings are going out, then the rear ones are probably on their way as well. To remove any doubt I also got the Front-forward lower control arm as well as the Rear-forward lower control arm, and Rear-rear lower as well. I elected not to replace the 4 rear wishbones at this time I think I can replace those without having to deal with alignment issues later. Maybe. All in, it was about $1000 going through CarID.com, not too bad overall.
Does anyone have a list of tools needed?
I have the ball joint separator shown below, but I�m wondering if I need any crowfoot wrenches, and what specific size wrenches/ sockets I�ll be needing.
Can always jack the car up and start getting calipers on things, but you�d save me some effort!
Meyle parts
Thanks, I actually meant for this post to be on a 997.2 thread. I must have scrolled too far down on my phone to a �Related Thread� by mistake -forehead smack-
The parts are similar, so no problem.No crows feet needed.
the ball joint tool is the only special tool you’ll need.
...and a torque wrench. (I consider that a standard tool, but I guess not every DIYer has one)
Here's a recent cost summary/ guide as of 11/17/ 2009 for those interested in replacing their lower control arms with a bad central bushing as seen in this video:
You Tube
OEM
Genuine Porsche - $940 (pair, free shipping)
Meyle - $276 (pair, cheapest I could find was at
CarID.com
, free shipping)
Pros - Both seem to be trusted brands in the forums (Note: There are slightly cheaper brands out there, but I tend to shop mid-market just incase the cheapest ones are in fact made with inferior parts)
Cons - Non-serviceable ball joints, Will likely last the same amount of time as OEM (55k miles in my case)
Vertex/ EPS - Reconditioned arms with Serviceable Ball Joints
$403 (pair, shipping included)
$150 core charge (refunded when you send your old parts back)
Pros - Serviceable ball joint
Cons - Unknown
polyurethane bushing firmness, Poly bushings can "squeak" over time.
Elephant Racing - Bushings Only
$180 for (2) Center Bushings and $130 for (4) Inner Bushings, "Stock hardness" = $310 + shipping costs TBD
+$75 for center bushing removal tool (one time cost)
Pros - You can only replace what you need, rubber vs polyurethane, Comes in OEM and Firm (15% stiffer) hardnesses
Cons - U
nless you buy the Vertex arms first, and then swap out the center and inner bushings for Elephant, you'd still be stuck with non-serviceable ball joint down the road.
Option 1
Buy only the center bushings from Elephant ($180 + 75 = $255 + labor to press them out/ in). "Cheapest" option. BUT if you're installing on an arm that already has 40-50k miles on it, the life span on the non-serviceable ball joint as well as the inner bushings could go out shortly thereafter.
Option 2
Buy Vertex arms ($403). If I don't like the firmness of the polyurethane bushings you could eventually replace with Elephant. At least you'd now have an arm
with a serviceable ball joint.
Option 3
Just buy the Meyle or other Brand X ($276) and call it a day. At that price they are disposable items and don't worry about servicing individual bushing/ ball joints. You're stuck with OEM firmness but if it's a street car that may not me the worst thing.
If you're on a budget, then Option 3, if you have deep pockets I'd go with Option 1 AND 2 (buy Vertex for serviceable ball joint AND switch out for Elephant bushings.
I have a new to me 996 Turbo and its time to change the Coffin arms. I currently have all 4 with part numbers 99634134106 and am wondering if anyone has successfully installed 997 coffin arms on their 996. Looking at the Meyle photo in photo#6, it looks like the middle bushing is deeper in depth and the control arm link that joins the coffin arm from a 996 will not go over a 997 coffin arm bushing. Am I right?
Option 4 Powerflex Polyurethane bushings for under $100 bucks only if you have low miles on your coffin arms as stated above in post #12, But option 3 is where I'm headed. Anyone care to write a review on the Meyle arms please. Thanks in advance.
You Tube
Just throwing this out, but RMEuropean has these as well:
Meyle $91.85
URO $82.17
I've been shopping these guys more and more due to their prices and shipping.
Warehouse33, a sponsor here, has the Meryle control arms for $95.42. I have been running the Meyle Control (coffin) Arms for a few years with no problems. Also the diagonal control arms.
There's another company in Uk called spider performance selling coffin arms with the poly flex bush , standard bush isn't fitted from manufacturers so it's easy to just put the poly bush straight in !
I used URO lower control arm and only got about 18K miles out of then before the ball joint boot was destroyed, the ball joint knocking about loosely, and the pivot bushing knocking around. I would avoid them, especially since Meyle is only 10 buck more. Just sayin.
Hi Doug watching this post on the Meyle control arms and have a question for you. When you replaced with new control arms for Meyle units, did you replace hardware like new bolts and nuts as well or did you reuse the old ones. Also how did you know that you needed new control arms and control links?
When I got my PPI done during purchase my mechanic noted all original suspension on the car. Now I'm thinking this car is 19 years old and the front/back end is just sloppy with clunks everywhere. So I'm thinking of doing a complete refresh.
BTW to all shopping for Porsche parts Jason also gives a 10% discount if you use code Rennlist at Warehouse33 during checkout, no sales tax and many items ship for free. Best of all I get my parts within 2 days. Best car parts buying experience so far.
When I did mine, I just reused my old bolts, but I used Loctite thread locker.
Since mine might eventually see some track usage, I used torque seal/tamper proof marking and the bolts have not loosened in 6000 miles.
The control arms will make a loud creaking and popping noise when they're really shot, but I guarantee you that replacing them, especially in the front, will make your car handle a LOT better. The control arm link bushings will be very loosey-goosey and will be easy to move by hand when worn. The new ones will be MUCH stiffer and harder to move by hand. I'm sure the original suspension will be very worn especially if you have a bunch of miles on the car.
I had a good experience when I bought new fuel injectors from Warehouse33. His prices for FIs were the best by far!
That Franny and Heidi video was very helpful for me to understand how all the suspension parts fit together. However, she does the one thing that all the guides tell you not to do: separate the ball joint by hitting it with a hammer. It worked out for her, but I think I'll use the recommended pickle fork when I do this job.
I'm also thinking about doing a full front suspension refresh when I pull the coffin arms. FCP Euro has a nice kit that includes all TRW parts for the tie rods, tuning forks, coffin arms, and even new boots. $563 seems like a good deal for all of this, plus free shipping and their lifetime guarantee.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...er-trw-997kit1
Seems like it would be best to replace the parts all at once and only do an alignment once after that?
A Pickle Fork works well - especially if you don't care about tearing the boot on the ball joint. If you want to save that boot (say if you're removing the tie rod and want to reuse it) I recommend using the lever type ball joint tool...
“I'm also thinking about doing a full front suspension refresh when I pull the coffin arms. FCP Euro has a nice kit that includes all TRW parts for the tie rods, tuning forks, coffin arms, and even new boots. $563 seems like a good deal for all of this, plus free shipping and their lifetime guarantee.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...er-trw-997kit1
“.
Yes its a good idea to replace all front components or all rear components or both at once to minimize trips for alignment. I would like to add that the kit you posted is mostly TRW, however the coffin arms are MEYLE which is still a good option and what I will be most probably getting.
Brett
Thanks TexSquirrel for your input. That’s good to hear.
