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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHOil leak - from AOS? Please help identify.
Reported or suspected cause
aos or if it's just seeping/weeping
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I'm trying to figure out if my issue is a bad AOS or if it's just seeping/weeping from the clamp connection, i.e.
Leading evidence: 'aos or if it's just seeping/weeping' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'aos or if it's just seeping/weeping' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check air oil separator' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Read about a quick check for a bad AOS: with engine running, remove oil filler cap.
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Suggestion
If accessible (and you are a contortionist) you just might be able to work your one hand up there, squeeze the plastic connector and get it to disconnect from the AOS.
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Suggestion
How in the world you would be able to then remove the o-ring and replace then reconnect with one hand is impossible to imagine.
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Suggestion
I'm in the same boat and am replacing the AOS and the lines now.
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Suggestion
If accessible (and you are a contortionist) you just might be able to work your one hand up there, squeeze the plastic connector and get it to disconnect from the AOS.
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Suggestion
My advice - since it is weeping and not really blowing a vast amount of oil, wait until you are ready to replace the AOS or drop it all for the clutch/IMS/RMS, and just replace those hoses as well.
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I have a VERY slow oil leak. It has been this way for months now (possibly since I got the car). NOTHING hits the ground but the connection at the top is wet to the touch, everything below is just damp and obviously getting grimy.
It looks like it is leaking from the connection to the AOS? At least I think that's the AOS. Any ideas as to corrective measure besides replacing the whole thing or? It almost looks like the hoseclamp is letting oil escape. Or is there something above that area that is dripping down, but that seems unlikely.
I'm inclined to just leave it until I need a clutch or the AOS goes bad etc. The engine (and AOS and everything else I presume) is about five years old with about 26000 miles on it now. (Factory warranty replacement).
The picture was taken laying below it with the top of my head towards the front of the car. So this is the rear of the engine, facing towards the front of the car above the driver's side (left hand side) rear suspension.
Thanks!
P1000751.JPG
From what I've been reading it's about 7 hrs if you know what you're doing, figure a long weekend if you don't.
I appears if the transmission is out then it is easy. Hence many wait until clutch or IMS/RMS time and do it all together.
I'm wondering if it is just easier to remove the trans than try to mess with the intake etc. coming over the top. I don't have little dainty soft hands like some others apparently do.
I'm trying to figure out if my issue is a bad AOS or if it's just seeping/weeping from the clamp connection, i.e. if I can just replace the clamp and hopefully it fixes it. Just not sure how to best access that clamp...
Read about a quick check for a bad AOS: with engine running, remove oil filler cap. If car stalls/shakes/shudders once cap is off, very likely you have a bad AOS.
Also, do you get a white cloud of smoke upon start up.....which persists/lingers after car is running?
Looks to me like a leak at the upper hose connection. Usually replacing the O-ring there will cure leakage. The connection clamp is integral with the plastic hose so if it's not connecting flush with the AOS & the O-ring looks good you will have to replace the whole hose.
Ok, thank you, I was not aware that there was an o-ring in that location. Now I just have to figure out the part number for that. The hose looks like it is going on straight (at least when I am under it) so hopefully that's not the issue. Does that clip (that holds the hose on) just come off with pressure, it looks plastic.
Walter - indeed there is an o-ring in that connector. If accessible (and you are a contortionist) you just might be able to work your one hand up there, squeeze the plastic connector and get it to disconnect from the AOS. How in the world you would be able to then remove the o-ring and replace then reconnect with one hand is impossible to imagine. Realistically, the only way I can imagine to do this is to follow the complete procedure for removing the left side intake manifold to advance to AOS removal, or in your case as you've stated, doing the clutch/IMS/RMS. I've been in there and done this and it is not an easy job whatsoever. I had wounds on my left arm that took 3 weeks to heal. Wrapped my entire arm in ACE bandages to avoid the cuts. My advice - since it is weeping and not really blowing a vast amount of oil, wait until you are ready to replace the AOS or drop it all for the clutch/IMS/RMS, and just replace those hoses as well. It is a mind boggling project to get in there from the top and I would not do it for simply that o-ring. Next time I replace the AOS, I'm dropping the engine.
Good advise right here. There's no reason to just replace a hose when the entire AOS costs something like $120. Also, with the trans out you can lower the motor with a jack making access much easier. Some say you can lower the entire assembly intact and reach the AOS though I've never tried it....
Kromdome is right about the suction. I could barely twist off my Oil filler cap when I tried that test and it stumbled terribly. No white smoke on start and no CEL though...
The tip off was that the suction on was so bad it was causing the rear main seal to whistle (once it was warm).... no kidding. The next sucking sound was the money coming out of my wallet.
Oh well.
The connector is plastic. To remove, grip the larger ring with thumb & forefinger & press together HARD & pull straight off. As others have said you will probably have to lower engine etc. In any event go ahead & order at least 2 O-rings.
Try here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Separator.htm
Great, thank you all for the advice. I'll get it back up in the air and see if I can get my meathook up in there. No big rush to do it yet though. I'll start looking for the O-rings. Thanks!
