Using a "quick jack" WITH a four post?

Hey all, I have a Bend Pak 4-post lift that is great, but it's a hassle when I need the wheels off for suspension work, brake projects, etc. So I'm thinking of picking up a small $1500 "quick jack" that I would use on top of the 4-post lift rails when I need maximum access to work under the car with wheels off. Bend Pak sells hydraulic jacks that fit into the rails, but 1) they're $1900 each (so two of them would be almost as much as the lift!), and 2) the rail-mounted Bend Pak units would interfere with the working space. If the quick jack is secure enough to work on the floor, it should be secure enough to work on the lift, albeit a little less so due to higher center of gravity. Thoughts on this setup? I have to do tie rods and CV boots on the missus' 986 and I have grown weary of my current "setup" of finagling bottle jacks and jack stands on the lift and I'm inclined to get the quick jacks for that (and future) projects.

With my four post I use two tall jack stands to put it up on four regular jack stands. I place the two stands under the rear sub frame chock the front wheels and lower the lift to raise the back. Place short stands at the rear jack points then raise the lift back up. Then do the same for the front. I had thought about a quick jack before I started using this technique.

Quotes source post: 18982215

Pretty neat method! Plus the jackstands on a 4-post lift are still far safer than jackstands on the ground because even if the car falls off it can still only go so far.

I used to put jack-stand on the ground under the 4 post lift, lower the car onto the jackstand, then put 4x4 under the car's body at the lifting point, then raise the car back up to comfortable working height (that is why we have lifts). This is cheap. I now have a manual hydraulic jack fit between the two runners to lift the car up then use the 4x4 under the body, and push the large jack out of the working space. This is faster.

Buy a jack plate and use a couple bottle jacks. Probably leas then $2-300. https://dealershipcloseouts.com/prod...4aAkblEALw_wcB

My thought here is that you cant drive on the quick jacks so you would need the car on the lift and then would have to lift the quick jack onto the frame. They are awkward to lift horizontally and weigh about 85 pounds each.

Quotes source post: 18982344

^ This ^ is the only problem I see with using a quick jack on your 4 post. Could minimize this problem by getting the lightest smallest quick jack model, and don't try to have the car up 5' in the air trying to lift up and position awkwardly the 75lb quick jack. Maybe just drive on the 4 post, still on the ground, then lift the QJ on the 4 post only having to lift/maneuver QJ up less than 1', one end at a time...?

I�ve done it numerous times with my 4-post DirectLift. The thing to watch for is the QuickJacks slipping on the painted metal ramps of the lift. I�ve never had a QJ slip when on my lift or the ground, but I�ve read some stories of folks who have. I always make sure that the QJ�s are completely even and parallel to each other, just like I do any other time.

Quotes source post: 18982458

This has been my plan. According to QJ's website the smallest model is 60# per side, which I can manage pretty easily. My plan has been to drive the car onto the lift, put the QJ on the rails while the lift is down, loosen the lugs, elevate the lift to height and then lift the QJ last so the lift is set before I engage the QJ and remove the wheels. But there are some other good ideas in this thread I'll consider before I pull the trigger. If the other options aren't too much of a hassle, I'll save the money for another day.

For me it's not at all a hassle to lift the regular size QJ's onto the ramps when the 4-post is lowered to the ground. I'm not a big guy and neither is my son or wife. It takes us more time to walk to the garage than it does to lift the two QJ's onto the ramps. YMMV

In my opinion, the right tool for the job is the jack plate that is design to do the job on the 4 post lift.

Fine examples of why I'll never own another 4 post.. 2 post lets me access everything no dinking around...

Quotes source post: 18983899

I have the jack plates on the lift. The trouble is that the car sits too low to get even a small bottle jack in the right spot and then the space doesn't work to secure jack stands very well. The hydraulic/pneumatic jack trays that BendPak sells are $1900 each and even they would impede access to the center of the car.

Lots of low pro jack options available. I do agree getting a jack stand under after jacking is a pita. In the back i support under the rear x-member in the front i use a cross bar and a single jack in the middle so i can get stands in the ends. Amazon Amazon Amazon Amazon

Quotes source post: 18985691

@De Jeeper Sorry if this is a dumb question but how do you safely use a cross bar with a bottle jack?

I have a cup welded jn the center that fits over the stem of the jack. It lifts it fairly even and i have never had an issue as the chassis r super stiff. All cup cars r raised un the center of the frunk with an integrated air jack and they dont fall over. U could use 2 jacks inboard of the jack stand points if that makes u more comfortable. The reality for me is i rarely lift all 4 corners off the ground when using the 4 post so ill just put a floor jack under it and lift a single corner.