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YOUR RESEARCHBrake rotor project
Leading reported evidence
Clean cut
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Leading evidence: 'Clean cut' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean cut' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
What about cleaning, polishing and treating the metal?
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Suggestion
Also for something like a thick cast iron disk, the same schmucks around here will complain that they will need to replace their band saw after all the cuts are made.
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Suggestion
Afterwards you can use a grinder of some kind to clean up the sawed edge.
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Suggestion
I spent hours using a large right angle grinder to clean up welds and grind/sand large welded fabrications.
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Suggestion
Also for something like a thick cast iron disk, the same schmucks around here will complain that they will need to replace their band saw after all the cuts are made.
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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This isn't anything 996 specific but I came across this overpriced bookend from the Porsche accessories catalogue
http://shop4.porsche.com/usa/lifesty...e/bookend.pdds
image-3038008580.jpg
As it happens I have two rotors that I recently took off and I bet they'd clean up nicely. What are your thoughts on how to quarter them neatly? My guess is that my Dremel will not be up to the job
Nice! A band saw, power hacksaw or chop-saw would probably be the best "home shop", diy type of solution. I'm sure there are "better" ways such as water-jet, laser and those types of high end precision type cutters...who knows what it would cost you to get a one off project done like that though. I'd think if you have any friends who own or have access to a machine shop, that would be your best bet
If you don't have any tools yet to handle this kind of job, the most economical will be a Tool Shop cut off tool that can be found at Menards for $15 from time to time. Couple that with 10pack of grinding wheels for around $5 on sale. Of course you can always opt for the more expensive Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch but when it comes to a tool like this, there's very little difference.
My Tool Shop grinding tool has lasted me over 5 years so far and has gotten me out of numerous jams. One of the best bang for the buck tools I've purchased to date.
Actually it's on sale for $9.99 after rebate. Damn that must've been achieved through N korean slave labor...
http://www.menards.com/main/p-2421189-c-9075.htm
Thanks. I posted the same on Garage Forum and got various answers but looks like the grinding tool is the way to go and that price is unbeatable! Wonder if it makes sense to go for a larger diameter tool? Another suggestion was a band saw or plasma cutter, neither of which I have. In fact, I found a video where someone cuts a rotor in half using a plasma cutter. I do plan to take a welding class, and my guess is that they would have a cutter so that might be an option.
What about cleaning, polishing and treating the metal? If start with brake cleaner but I would think that using a polisher would be sensible and then finishing up with a sealant?
A grinding tool is not the way.
Unless you have access to large enough metal cutting band saw my suggestion would be to a buy a nice hack saw with a package of coarse tooth blades and start sawing.
It will take you a while but not as long as you think. Cast iron saws nice.
Afterwards you can use a grinder of some kind to clean up the sawed edge.
I spent hours using a large right angle grinder to clean up welds and grind/sand large welded fabrications. I'd use one of these grinders in a heart beat. It is very powerful and yet easy to use, manipulate grinder.
If you have access to a large disc sander these work well to clean up the sawed edge. The welding class lab probably has one of these.
Brake cleaner -- any non-residue cleaner -- will remove any dirt oil/grease. Some kind of bead blasting will remove any scale, old paint, whatever. Then a good cleaning to remove any dust/grit the blasting created and then before the bare cast iron rusts you have to shoot the thing with some clear coat paint to let the cast iron show through.
if it were me and I wanted something that looked very nice, I would take it to a machine shop/metal shop that had a band saw. To get a perfectly strait cut would be worth the little money to have it cut.
I should've clarified my post and meant "cut off" tool with cut off discs, not "grinding" discs.
As for sealing, just clean it up and spray on some clear coat.
Definitely go to a machine shop for a clean cut.
When I made a coffee table out of an engine, I took the engine to an engine shop who dunked the block and heads in an acid to clean out all the grime. I'm sure they would do that for the rotor and it's cheap.
Otherwise, metal bush wheel on the end of a power drill followed with some polish or silver paint.
I don't really see a point in a DIY if you aren't really going to DIY.
Machine shops around here charge an arm and a leg. They only want to take on big jobs. Any small jobs that seem like a pain in the **** to them, they make sure they get compensated. Also for something like a thick cast iron disk, the same schmucks around here will complain that they will need to replace their band saw after all the cuts are made.
Got my rims powder coated from this one place which took over 5 weeks and on top of that was rushed and came out like crap. Their excuse was that they had more important things to do for Home Depot.
Yeah I want to cut me some brake rotor
There's a place in Seattle that does artist oriented welding and shop classes and I spoke to the guy who runs it. I was planning to do a welding class anyway and he has a band saw that I can use. I found a place to bead blast the cut up rotors so that will be the only part I don't do myself.
Oh yeah! I meant Garage Journal and I just contributed a few items to the Harbor Freight Pass/Fail thread
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...postcount=7193
For the tool itself, perhaps, but for the wheels, not no but he!! no. I have had the cheap Chinese tool store discs literally fly apart under use, and was fortunate not to be injured. Google "angle grinder injury" and you will find tons of pictures of really disturbing results of these crappy el-cheapo discs becoming projectiles. There is one of a fellow with a nice 1/3 pie slice of a 4 1/2" cutting wheel embedded in his cheek, presumably on his way to the E-room.
Buy the good brand-name discs, please.
I get the ones that are fiberglass reinforced as that is the key regardless of brand. It's the fiberglass mesh that keeps discs from shattering. Never had an incident over 10 years and numerous discs.
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