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YOUR RESEARCHtime to change engine oil
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Use cars regularly i decided
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While I use my cars regularly I decided to use this additive.
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I've used the Porsche/Audi recommended Mobile 1 0W-40 in my 03 A6 4.2, my 996, and now my 997.
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I pulled the magnetic numbers off Monday morning and the only clean spot was under the numbers.
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Suggestion
If you feel a need to remove as much of the old oil as possible the "flush" would consist of doing a regular oil change: If the oil in the engine is sutiable to run the engine with, warm up the engine some, then drain the oil, change the filter, install a new drain plug washer and a new filter housing o-ring, then fill the engine with the proper oil, type and viscosity for your location.
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Next I hear if ya fill er up with Diesel fuel it'll remove all the crap and sludge plus get the water out.
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If you feel a need to remove as much of the old oil as possible the "flush" would consist of doing a regular oil change: If the oil in the engine is sutiable to run the engine with, warm up the engine some, then drain the oil, change the filter, install a new drain plug washer and a new filter housing o-ring, then fill the engine with the proper oil, type and viscosity for your location.
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Porsche techs tell me that using this additive helps reduce engine noise upon engine start and is particularly recommended (by them anyhow) for use in engines of cars that don't get driven regularly.
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"On newer water-cooled [Porsche] engines where Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended, a simple change to an oil with CJ-4 rating or preferably an oil with SL or CI-4 rating as well as a viscosity of 5w40 rather than 0w40 are two changes that can be done in addition to more frequent oil changes to ensure longevity of newer engines."
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(I recently switched to using Castrol Syntech 5w-50 in both my 02 Boxster and my 03 Turbo but since I change the oil at 5K miles I'm not so worried about the viscosity index improvers breaking down before I change the oil.)
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i have few questions in this regard:
is it OK to flush the engine with one of the flushing oil products?
can a thicker engine oil be better? if yes, what is the recommended weight/brand?
any recommended engine oil additives?
Thanks.
Warm the motor before you change the oil (Don't Burn Yourself) and it will come out much faster than you'd imagine. Unless you have reason to beleive the motor is full of sludge, I'd pass on the flush. Choice of oil is the subject of much debate. I've used the Porsche/Audi recommended Mobile 1 0W-40 in my 03 A6 4.2, my 996, and now my 997. Combine with a fresh filter, o-ring, drain plug and crush washer, and you're good to go. I bought the pressure washer after my first oil change on the 996, up to you if you want to do it before.
(well if no one else willl)
Yea, hell... I would hook up the garden hose and warsh er' down reall good from the inside, then flush thru a gallon of bleach followed by some of that WD-40 stuff. Next I hear if ya fill er up with Diesel fuel it'll remove all the crap and sludge plus get the water out. you can run er a few seconds like that... now run down to Walmart and buy the heaviest $hit they gots - yur gonna need a bunch of it so make sure and get the cheap stuff...fill er right up till she wont take anymore and hell that sucker will last a lifetime.
If ya need any help and gots a lots a cold beer, me and the fellas would be happy to come over and drink it...
(all kiding aside... just change the oil, use a stock filter and an approved oil/weight off the list based on your location - which I cant see where that is)
Be careful guys on what you say. Remember he asked in the first place and might follow through. Not everyone here has been in "the octogon" when it comes to oil discussion.
Remove the drain plug.
Drain the oil.
Change the filter.
Install new crush washer on the drain plug.
Refill with 0W-40 or 5W-40 Mobile 1.
Post pics of your car!
Here's a good place to read up:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#m96
"On newer water-cooled [Porsche] engines where Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended, a simple change to an oil with CJ-4 rating or preferably an oil with SL or CI-4 rating as well as a viscosity of 5w40 rather than 0w40 are two changes that can be done in addition to more frequent oil changes to ensure longevity of newer engines."
Kapow....Bang....Pop.....Wizzzzzzz......those aren't fireworks it just the noise in my head when I hear oil discussions.....
Engine flush really???????? It is a Pcar not a Ford Bronco!
Flushing was for the days of non-detergent oil. I used to flush the motor in my MG by mixing kerosine with 20W oil and letting it idle for 10 minutes then drain. It would desolve the sludge and make the the motor smile. This was on a car with mechanical lifters also, and the proceedure was recomended in the workshop manual.
Hopefully not to add to the noise...
Generally, there is no need to flush the old oil with any flushing product. That is normally an oil flush is not necessary. But if someone added the wrong oil, added coolant to the oil tube, then that changes things.
If you feel a need to remove as much of the old oil as possible the "flush" would consist of doing a regular oil change: If the oil in the engine is sutiable to run the engine with, warm up the engine some, then drain the oil, change the filter, install a new drain plug washer and a new filter housing o-ring, then fill the engine with the proper oil, type and viscosity for your location. Do not overfill.
Then start the engine and let the engine idle for a while or even advancing to driving the car a while -- hundreds of miles perhaps -- and then doing a full oil change again.
Depends to some extent upon why you believe an oil flush is necessary.
In some cases a thicker oil can be better. Depends upon why you think your engine needs a thicker oil.
Generally the bigger the difference between an oil's W viscosity number and its other viscosity number the more viscosity index improvers have to be used.
These can break down and that marvelous 0W-40 or even 5W-50 oil can be not so good if the oil run too long.
Thus a 5w-40 or 10w-40 oil might be better as long as the oil was a quality brand of oil, synthetic and met all of the requirements for use in your Porsche.
(I recently switched to using Castrol Syntech 5w-50 in both my 02 Boxster and my 03 Turbo but since I change the oil at 5K miles I'm not so worried about the viscosity index improvers breaking down before I change the oil.)
Oil additives... Used to be that my belief was that if I was using an oil to which I felt I needed to add an additive I was using the wrong oil.
However, recently I've come around to using Swepco 502 oil improver.
See the info at the link below:
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/lubepdf/j03776.pdf
(I had some analyzed: It contains 200ppm of molybdenum obviously in a form that allows the stuff to remain effective as an anti-friction additive.)
Porsche techs tell me that using this additive helps reduce engine noise upon engine start and is particularly recommended (by them anyhow) for use in engines of cars that don't get driven regularly.
While I use my cars regularly I decided to use this additive. Whether you use it or not is up to you. I would advise you to consult the car's owners manual and if Porsche forbids using it do not use it, of course.
And before anyone jumps up and claims it is Porsche just trying to improve its bottom line a bottle costs just under $10.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Actually.......the car is a complete mess this week from last w/e DE. I pulled the magnetic numbers off Monday morning and the only clean spot was under the numbers. And I finally pulled the group letter from the windshield yesterday. I'll post some pics this weekend...
I don' need no stinkin' photochop! Wiseguy
I got "busted" for leaving stickers on my car too... its been raining non-stop since last weekend and looks like the next 10 days are the same.... no washy washy love for my baby
(I got the stickers off though)
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