Targa Top Issue

I have an intermittent issue with my targa top that I need some help with. About a month or two ago the rear glass hatch started not always opening. No rhyme or reason to when it would work and when it wouldn't. I'd open it at home to throw my golf clubs in, drive to the club and it wouldn't open. (Top roof always closed when I am trying to open the hatch.) Two days ago I was driving home and I was trying to close the top roof because it was starting to rain and it closed very slowly, then it would stop. If I released the button and pushed it again it would close a little more and then stop again. Eventually releasing and repushing the button got it all the way closed. Just now I was able to pop the hatch. Then I shut it and then opened the top. That all worked fine. Then I went to close it and it did the same as two days ago. Started to close and then stopped. Release the button and push it and it closed. So, obviously it stays shut for now. I did some searching in the forum and there are some posts about lubricating the tracks and some others about microswitches going bad. Next steps to diagnose the issue?

I have not had the issues you describe but I do clean and lube the tracks for the sliding glass yearly. Some use a lithium spray lube but I do not like look of the white lube in the tracks. I read somewhere that the dealers often use Wurth HHS-K spray lube. It is very liquid when applied but immediately turns viscous. I use a liquid silicon oil on the edges of the roof opening where the sliding roof and the body make contact. I think I found my can of Wurth on Amazon.com. Good Luck. John

I would advise against using lithium grease or silicone based lube on these tracks as they attract dirt and gum up the mechanism even more. The manufacturer uses a lube called krytox.

So you guys think the stalling/failure to close issue is lubrication related? And therefore the fix would be to apply some lubrication (that's what she said!) and that should fix it? How, exactly, does one do this? Just squirt some in the track or something more refined?

It may not be lube related but start there. Use Q-tips and clean the tracks of old lube and debris then the Wurth oil is lightly sprayed with the attached straw in the track area only. A little is all you need and it will travel down at the rear of the car where you cannot reach. If that does not do it, you may need to open up the back area to check out the cables etc. I have no experience here but I am sure you can find something on-line in this group or others. Let us know what your solution turns out to be. John '03 Targa

OK, some development. The top now won't open. It moves about 1/2 inch and stops, won't go back any further. Fortunately it closes.

Check your manual. You can remove the carpet at the rear and manually operate the top window. You might be able to determine where the hang up is during manual operation. If you do not have the manual, let me know. John '03 Targa

Thanks. The manual has a procedure for emergency closing of the top but is silent about opening it that way. Will it work to open it or will manually cranking it that way screw something up? I'm assuming I have a bad motor at this point.

It isn't the fuse.

Ugh. Pretty sure I found the issue and it isn't likely to be cheap. The driver's side cabling along the roof line is exposed and it looks like stuff is all screwed up. I have no idea how it got this way. Pictures:

You are in over my head on this one. I spent a few minutes searching and there is a lot of discussion on the Targa roof. Here are some links I have captured for later review. I think I will lube my cables by investigating how they pull through the motors after my AX weekend. Here are some links. Spend a lot of time reading before doing anything serious! http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...formation.html lube cables http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...tric-roof.html https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...oof-issue.html Parts http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=811-01 John

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Thanks, those links are really helpful. I had found the 6speed ones but not the others you provided. I don't think this repair is one I am going to tackle myself. I really have no idea when/how the fabric covering the cable on the driver's side got ripped and vanished. It's something I feel like I would have noticed and I don't remember seeing it before. But it's on the driver's side, it's not a spot I look at often and only saw it when I was trying to open up the back panel to see the motors for the roof. The PPI report is silent on it, but the roof worked perfectly so maybe they didn't look at it either. I'm just going to convince myself that I have the ultra-exclusive sunroof-delete/glass roof option until I have the energy to get this fixed.

Hi DTMiller, I have some similar issues. Sounds like marbles grinding at the half way open/closed point. I am guessing the fur has all disappeared off the cables. I will go get some Wurth spray as suggested and go from there. I had a guy from 911Uk.com that did his own repair. was a lengthy process and way out of my league and skill level. Frightened to see how much the Porsche centre will charge me... At a bit of a loss over value of car vs repair costs. Interested to hear about your progress. Cheers, Good luck, Bez

In my situation the black fabric covering the area where the cables run on the drivers side came loose somehow and ended up getting pulled into the motors which destroyed them. So I had to replace both motors. I discussed it with some local Porsche owners and debated the merits of DIY (hahaha, no) a couple different independent shops and the dealership. I ended up taking it to the dealership because of how specialized this repair is. All in it ran me about $2000, with $1500 being parts. $700/motor * 2 + $100 for the fabric cover.